80 vs. 100 series brake pads: Picture

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ill agree to disagree there. I have a JDM spec hdj81 (which use same front brakes as 60 series) when i switched over to FZJ it totally changed the game. The pedal response, effort and longevity improved so much i was choked i didnt do it the day i got my truck.
 
the 100 series pad doesn't fit on the hdj81. but i do not see how a 100 series pad improve the braking power. maybe it will just prolong the wear due to its surface area.:confused:
 
The common misperception is that the 100 series pads will "stop better".

This is incorrect.

The only reason to install 100 series pads is for longevity of brake pads since the 80 is so heavily proportioned to the front.
 
There really isn't a nice way to put this, the brakes on my 91 just plain stink.
Does the rear disc swap help at all ?
And what other parts need to be replaced when doing the swap ?....LSPV, master cylinder etc...
 
Not to highjack the thread, but has anyone looked at how stock brake lines [the rubber portion] "ballon" while under braking and made a switch to steal braided brakelines. Maybe some of you have done this after you've lifted your 80 and did this help the brake feel and response?
 
3676783960_2eb979bafe_z.jpg

TOP: FJ80
BOTTOM: 100-Series

Purchased the 100-Series Brake Pads [bottom] to replace the stock FJ80 Brake Pads [top] for an upgrade - larger surface area. BUT, They did not fit my 1992 80-Series... so back to stock pads for now. I will look into grinding the 100-Series pads to fit. My biggest issue is that my rear axle seals have leaked and my rear drum brake shoes are shot, so I have larger issues at play. But I did not know the rear seals had leaked so theirfore I did not know I had a rear brake issue. My fronts wore out faster due to having more stopping responsibility as the rear brakes decided to take a grease bath time off.
SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM / SERVICE PM.......
 
Not to highjack the thread, but has anyone looked at how stock brake lines [the rubber portion] "ballon" while under braking and made a switch to steal braided brakelines. Maybe some of you have done this after you've lifted your 80 and did this help the brake feel and response?
Yes, rubber lines “swell” causing a soft(er) pedal. While this can happen in older cars, this is not the primary gain from upgraded brake lines. Yes, the Teflon tube wrapped with braided steel has a much lower swell than rubber and textile lines. The firmer pedal that is immediately apparent is mostly from the smaller internal diameter of the Teflon lines. Since the Teflon is more rigid, you can get away with a smaller diameter without increasing the risk of collapse. This means that you actually need to move less brake fluid to achieve the same application of brakes. The result? A more responsive pedal with greater feedback.

Having said that, (and here's my disclaimer/caveat), I would NOT run SS braided lines UNLESS you *routinely* change them annually or bi-annually. See below for more info (and this what many of us who have toys we race with adhere to religiously): Brake Lines - NSX-Wiki.

Lastly, if you have a soft pedal, there are other just as likely culprits, like leaks, air in the system, a failing brake master cylinder, etc, that you should be looking into as well.

Just my $0.02.
 
I run slotted DBA discs all round with 100s pads on the front. This was a big improvement over stock, but the biggest difference came from changing the brake lines running from the axles to the calipers. People tend to change the main brake lines from the chassis to the axle, but for me it was the axle/caliper ones that were the weakest link.

Cheers
 
This means that you actually need to move less brake fluid to achieve the same application of brakes. The result? A more responsive pedal with greater feedback.

I agree that a smaller diameter brake line will give a more responsive pedal due to and increase in pressure or resistance.

I disagree with you that it will require less fluid to move to achieve the same application of brakes. The only way for this to happen is to change the volume of the pistons travel from relaxed to compressed (which for my abilities I can't measure it.

One of the main variables in a brake or clutch systems efficiency is its distance of travel before contact (I am talking about hairs).

I don't understand why you would routinely change ss brake hoses????

I just bought some?!?!
 
I don't understand why you would routinely change ss brake hoses????

I just bought some?!?!
Did you read the article I posted a link to? Cuz that's exactly what it addresses.

As it mentioned, braided lines are designed to protect brake lines from track debris; the firmer pedal and faster piston actuation was a side benefit.

The problem is, SS lines don't allow you to visually inspect the line for wear & tear (which yes, can & still does happen!). The result is that you're blind to the condition of and deterioration to your brake line, and are left with a false sense of security cuz the line is nice, shiny, and strong on the OUTSIDE.

Moreover, where the line itself & the fittings meet are often the breaking points, such as is mentioned in the aforementioned article, which can lead to a catastrophic failure - that cannot be visually predicted but can only preempt with routine maintenance. There's a reason why not a single manufacturer to date runs SS lines from the factory - including but not limited to Ferrari, Porsche, etc.
 
Yes, rubber lines “swell” causing a soft(er) pedal. While this can happen in older cars, this is not the primary gain from upgraded brake lines. Yes, the Teflon tube wrapped with braided steel has a much lower swell than rubber and textile lines. The firmer pedal that is immediately apparent is mostly from the smaller internal diameter of the Teflon lines. Since the Teflon is more rigid, you can get away with a smaller diameter without increasing the risk of collapse. This means that you actually need to move less brake fluid to achieve the same application of brakes. The result? A more responsive pedal with greater feedback.

Having said that, (and here's my disclaimer/caveat), I would NOT run SS braided lines UNLESS you *routinely* change them annually or bi-annually. See below for more info (and this what many of us who have toys we race with adhere to religiously): Brake Lines - NSX-Wiki.

Lastly, if you have a soft pedal, there are other just as likely culprits, like leaks, air in the system, a failing brake master cylinder, etc, that you should be looking into as well.

Just my $0.02.

i have run ss lines on nearly every vehicle i have owned for the past 6-7 years, and never knew a reason to replace them or flush them any more often than the stock rubber hoses? Please elaborate as to why you recommend this?
 
I thinks its cause dirt gets trapped in the braids and can rub through the hose.

In Oz braided hoses are only road legal if the braid is wrapped in a coating that prevents this from happening.
 
So what about the factory rubber (plastic?) lines. After 235k+ miles ours look like they are degrading (from the axle to caliper). Seems like it might be good place to spend some money. What do factory lines cost compared to SS?
 
As mentioned above, and you can't examine the condition of the line to see when it needs replacing.

As for the factory lines, to each his own, but when I get into routine maintenance, I do as much as I can while I'm in that "region," as routine/preventative maintenance, as to avoid having to repeat the labor at a later date for something small I skimped on.

SS brake lines are cheap. If you wanna run 'em, put it in your annual or bi-annual list of "things to do/replace," along with your plugs, fluids, etc, and you won't have anything to worry about :)
 
If anyone is interested......click the link in my signature to see the write-up I did when I swapped out my stock 1991 HDJ81 setup in favour of larger front components. Lots of part numbers and pictures.

I put it down to the fact that the diesel 91 which i owned, and the 3fe which is very similar in performance to the diesel, just aren't powerful enough to warrant a better braking system.

It's not about power. It's about momentum, of which mass is a factor. More mass = harder to stop. My truck feels like a tank and my personal opinion is that my brakes are significantly better now than they were before. I would assume that there's a reason why they went to the larger setup on later models.....

And for the record, my diesel will make mince meat out of almost any 3FE. :D
 
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After spending a good amount of cash on slee ss brake hose and hearing that they need to be replaced annually??? I did some looking and found numerous failures for all types of lines.

It doesn't matter what material your hose is made out of. A manufacturer defect will cause failure and applying pressure beyond what the line is tested could cause a rupture at the weakest point, the connection.

If your like me and have ss lines take a look at this link. I wouldn't loose any sleep over ss brake lines that would be five or more years old.

and to get back to the original post 100 pads don't give you better brakes.

Brake Lines Upgrade - Goodridge - Modified Magazine
 
After spending a good amount of cash on slee ss brake hose and hearing that they need to be replaced annually???
It's not that they NEED to. It's that you have NO WAY of visually inspecting the line to see what condition it's in, BECAUSE it's SS braided. So you end up HAVING to resort to routine preventative/preemptive maintenance - IF you wanna be smart about something as serious as brakes.

I did some looking and found numerous failures for all types of lines. It doesn't matter what material your hose is made out of.
Of course. ALL materials subjected to enough wear & tear will fail at a given point.

A manufacturer defect will cause failure and applying pressure beyond what the line is tested could cause a rupture at the weakest point, the connection.
Well, that's the thing. It's not that you're seeing pressure greater than what the line itself can handle. The testing you referenced clearly shows the lines themselves can handle the pressure, and then some. The problem is that even within NORMAL pressures (normal operation), the fittings can be prone to failure. And that's typically where SS braided lines fail as well! The line itself can indeed fail, but unless it fails catastrophically, or you notice an obvious leak, you have no way of easily knowing if the line itself was the culprit - because it's hidden behind the SS braiding ;)

If your like me and have ss lines take a look at this link. I wouldn't loose any sleep over ss brake lines that would be five or more years old.
In the article's own words:

"...a car more than three years old should take a very close look at the condition of their brake lines and replace them if they show any signs of wear and tear." How you're gonna do that with SS braided lines, I'm ALL ears to. So the moral of the story is, feel free to run whatever lines you'd like, but make sure to inspect them regularly, and if they can't be visually inspected (as in the case with SS braided lines), make sure to REPLACE them regularly. But hey, don't take MY word for it. Just drop by your local roadcourse and ask the many avid roadracers about the failures they've SEEN from old SS braided brake lines, and how religious they are about routinely changing their SS braided lines.
 
OK, to solve this ss or stock which is better or longer lasting...

Take a pair of stock lines and braid them in SS then put a clear tube over them.

:flipoff2:
 
100 eries wheels on a Lx 450

Hi all. I am new to Cruisers and am looking for a spare set of rims. I was wondering if any of you know if 100 series year 2000 will fit a 1996 lx450? Cheers.


Stoked new owner of a cherry lx 450 that is definatley getting christmas gifts.


"don't ask, don't get" Ghandi.

:banana:
 

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