Do they come in pink?
Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #1,582
Let's hope!!
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
You should DD it.
- Thread starter
- #1,585
Have been the last week, hence the observation.
FJC averages 12MPG, so not much better, but, in fairness to both, the bead locks and heavy arse tires, coupled with my need for speed (being 75mph on highways, only as allowed by law.) don't bode well for efficiency.
Bed I can hope for is the '76 Pig, with "built" 2F, H55 and 33s, that's slated to replace the FJC's DD-ish purpose, will surpass in the efficiency department,
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
my pig averages about 15+ with 4.11s, an H42, and 33" tires on 87 octane> that's up and down hills, freeway @ 70MPH+ and stop and go urban driving. Those auto transmissions are the oil companies wet dream...less than 10 MPG??? redickuless; my ol 73 'maro did better cruisin the road at 90
Mine gets 10 mpg. Must be the 400 small block.
I like you plan.
Fixed
- Thread starter
- #1,591
125,686
5k maintenance and more brakes...
Rears had begun squawking so set out to swap pads. About 10k on.
Pads had plenty of life, but were grooved, as were the rotors, so turned and went back with new pads.
Bled all....still spongebrakedoesstop....
5k maintenance and more brakes...
Rears had begun squawking so set out to swap pads. About 10k on.
Pads had plenty of life, but were grooved, as were the rotors, so turned and went back with new pads.
Bled all....still spongebrakedoesstop....
OEM pads and rear rotors? Wonder why they are grooving after only 10k miles? Do you still have your proportioning valve setup? Or did you pull it out? I can't remember.
- Thread starter
- #1,593
OE pads and rotors replaced at the same time and I don't know.
The valve is still installed, lowered on frame side and extended on axle. Haven't pinned it fully open, simply because I'd rather it function as it should and in shop testing, fully engaging did little to stop rear.
In retrospect, wish I had abandoned it and ABS altogether, ran whatever non-US components necessary to accomplish.
By process of elimination, replacing parts as I've gone, can't help but think it's an ABS issue.
The valve is still installed, lowered on frame side and extended on axle. Haven't pinned it fully open, simply because I'd rather it function as it should and in shop testing, fully engaging did little to stop rear.
In retrospect, wish I had abandoned it and ABS altogether, ran whatever non-US components necessary to accomplish.
By process of elimination, replacing parts as I've gone, can't help but think it's an ABS issue.
I helped another member delete his ABS system. Said he had spongy brakes too. After getting rid of that and installing new pads/rotors he said it stopped great. I think those aging ABS pumps are the cause of the braking complaints on the 80.
- Thread starter
- #1,595
It's all that remains untouched, all else has been replaced, so the process of elimination agrees.
I have found no way to electronically engage, as I know I've done on other vehicles, nor have I ever been able to engage driving, even mashing at 55 MPH....which cost me a set of drawers due to the high stature.
In the event there's air in the ABS, don't know that it can be released by bleeding installed. Almost appears it'd be counterproductive, since a myriad of intertwined circuits, so kind of clueless.
In retrospect, should've gone with a non-US MC, removed the ABS altogether along with the LSPV, but had issues cutting dash lights and was committed to getting it to work, as intended, minus the LSPV.
Now, just want a hard pedal.
Soft functions.....hard functions much better.
I have found no way to electronically engage, as I know I've done on other vehicles, nor have I ever been able to engage driving, even mashing at 55 MPH....which cost me a set of drawers due to the high stature.
In the event there's air in the ABS, don't know that it can be released by bleeding installed. Almost appears it'd be counterproductive, since a myriad of intertwined circuits, so kind of clueless.
In retrospect, should've gone with a non-US MC, removed the ABS altogether along with the LSPV, but had issues cutting dash lights and was committed to getting it to work, as intended, minus the LSPV.
Now, just want a hard pedal.
Soft functions.....hard functions much better.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That's what she said.
- Thread starter
- #1,597
So my brakes need a little Viagra. So what? 
In all seriousness.
Anyone know how to bleed the ABS pump?
If faces with the option of replacing it, or punting on the whole deal and abandoning in favor of a non-US MC, what's the consensus?
Or am I overthinking replacing the MC?
In all seriousness.
Anyone know how to bleed the ABS pump?
If faces with the option of replacing it, or punting on the whole deal and abandoning in favor of a non-US MC, what's the consensus?
Or am I overthinking replacing the MC?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Chris's wife loves him just the same.
there is some special service tool needed that connects in and makes the ABS pulse, thus forcing the air/fluid out when you are bleeding the brakes.
the tool is $$$ unless somebody out in the world ever figured a way to bypass having to have the tool yet forcing the ABS to pulse while you have the truck obviously not moving....
edit: there was a thread on it last year, but I have not found it yet.
the tool is $$$ unless somebody out in the world ever figured a way to bypass having to have the tool yet forcing the ABS to pulse while you have the truck obviously not moving....
edit: there was a thread on it last year, but I have not found it yet.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Just ditch it and the LSPV and be done with it. You don't need a " non US" MC, just one from a FJ80. Also no wires in the dash need cutting. The ABS bulb is removable.
If faces with the option of replacing it, or punting on the whole deal and abandoning in favor of a non-US MC, what's the consensus?
Or am I overthinking replacing the MC?
You ought to go ahead and P/T the truck as well!
