Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (15 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you look at my front flex pics. I havnt touched my front bumpstops. Tire comes within 10mm of touching flare at top with 5" flexi's. That's the full weight of the truck on it. So yours with 4" will only just touch. If anything a thin coil spacer to adjust.
Delancy, this is off topic, but I was wondering of you could post up a pic of your stock bumpstops. I am trying to determine if mine were extended by the PO or not. That would be awesome!
Thanks, I'm pretty sure that's the same length mine are.
no front bump stops for me either. Guess you are in the clear.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Inside the spring all i have too
thatcabledude said:
That makes sense. Thanks
Hey Chris, I didnt want to hijack anyones thread so thought Id put this info in here for you in regards to front bumstops.
Front suspension.
Articulation. With extended bumpstops to suit the shock compression during articulation.
Back to front suspension at ride height.
You can see that if you jumped the truck and maxed out your suspension the shocks would over compress and blow before the bumpstop touches. Not by much, maybe 1" to the eye. But the bumstops will also compress almost 2" aswell. So if it was a race truck and you said you where going to do high speed stuff with it. I would recommend either shorter shocks by 3" or extending the bumpstops further down by 3". The only other way around that to keep the same travel is modifying the shock mounts at either the tower or diff end.
Front suspension.
Articulation. With extended bumpstops to suit the shock compression during articulation.
Back to front suspension at ride height.
You can see that if you jumped the truck and maxed out your suspension the shocks would over compress and blow before the bumpstop touches. Not by much, maybe 1" to the eye. But the bumstops will also compress almost 2" aswell. So if it was a race truck and you said you where going to do high speed stuff with it. I would recommend either shorter shocks by 3" or extending the bumpstops further down by 3". The only other way around that to keep the same travel is modifying the shock mounts at either the tower or diff end.
- Thread starter
- #194
Went to great trouble and expense to mount hydros on the FJC and through all, I may have utilized the full stroke three or four times, so high speed, full compression is very unrealistic, unless I count the potholes common on Oklahoma roads.
I'm still not understanding the other thread I hijacked's issue, fully, but it sounds like trying to make a shock work. I don't want to wind up in that position. I've no reservations chopping fenders or raising the upper mounts, but honestly can't envision why it'd be necessary to, considering the limitations inherent with the 80.
Interiors gutted for new headliner and deadener, both I hope to complete in the next week. Don't want to incapacitate until after, but want to get the arms and coils on, so may try to round up "Js" or "Ls" to run in the interim. (Not sure how long it'll take to get Radflo's, but concerned about ordering incorrectly)
No tires for three weeks, either, so will come up with a way to replicate the actual size, cycle, go from there.
I'm still not understanding the other thread I hijacked's issue, fully, but it sounds like trying to make a shock work. I don't want to wind up in that position. I've no reservations chopping fenders or raising the upper mounts, but honestly can't envision why it'd be necessary to, considering the limitations inherent with the 80.
Interiors gutted for new headliner and deadener, both I hope to complete in the next week. Don't want to incapacitate until after, but want to get the arms and coils on, so may try to round up "Js" or "Ls" to run in the interim. (Not sure how long it'll take to get Radflo's, but concerned about ordering incorrectly)
No tires for three weeks, either, so will come up with a way to replicate the actual size, cycle, go from there.
- Thread starter
- #196
TheBigBoy said:
I understood what you meant on thread jack, and I agree and apologize for my role in, since I started.
Strike my statement from the record. Wasn't to spark a debate.
Want these, right?
Longest off the shelf economical shocks.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-6250
http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-6249
Temporary use. I have to be able to drive this thing for, at least, another two weeks but want to ensure the Flexi's are good to go, as is.
After that, diffs, axles, everything else on the list won't allow mobility, and can wait for Radflo's.
- Thread starter
- #198
TheBigBoy said:
Front will be removed, and worry about later, if necessary. Hoping it won't be, because there's very little room, and the front frame rails are too narrow to cantilever a bar the width it "appears" it needs to be.
Rear frame rails are 46" out to out, same as the FJC. A 48"x1" bar would be perfect, but they don't exist in an "off the shelf" variety, so a 50" will have to do, or a custom 48" which triples the price in 1".
Using a 50" should clear the pan hard mount with no modification, but will have to bend the 18"-21" arm and use a u bracket to attach at the arm itself, heim at the axle mount. Shouldn't bind.
Biggest variable is how much clearance there will be with the 345/75/16 on the OE wheel (without spacers) when the PS is stuffed, between the tire and the frame rail. If there's not enough, then the hunt for 17" wheels will resume.
The OE rear sway bars look like rock magnets and others have confirmed, so relocation seems imperative.
- Thread starter
- #200
TheBigBoy said:What in the world are on about?
Just get some sway bar extensions with disconnect pins. If you want thicker sway bars. Just get a whiteline h/d one.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/467358-antirock-sway-bar-80-a.html
Works well on lifted applications with minimal detriment to articulation, plus it won't get hung up on speed bumps.
I've forgone disconnects because I haven't figured out what to do with the bar when disconnected. Not really a good way to "store" it, and wouldn't want to see it poking through the floor.
The debate on this abounded as well lengthy threads elsewhere. Installed on the FJC and a marked improvement over OE and freed up 1.5" of droop.
