80 Series Fuel Tank Replacement (4 Viewers)

Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
19
Location
Boston, MA
Just finished up full 80 series fuel tank replacement. My truck since new, driven on East Coast, finally had a fuel smell I could not eliminate with the obvious Fuel Canister blockage etc issues. It was a tank leak from seam. Very rusted.

Process:
Remove Passenger Seats to access port and see if leak may be from failed gasket or fuel lines. Not the issue.

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2. Moved on to inspecting outside of tank with bore scope. confirmed leaking gas. (sorry no photos of this scope shots)

3. Time to remove tank. First Drain the Tank from the Drain Bolt. Auto Fuel is about 6.5 lbs per gallon so even 10 gallons will add 65 lbs to the Drop. Start with removing the 2 bolts that hold the fuel straps together. If lucky, with enough Kroil and heat, bolts will come out without snapping. Breaker bar with swivel head did the trick on all but one. The one that is on driver side closest to the front had to be drilled out. If I had known the future problem that specific bolt would cause (partial body lift), I would have gone slower and more carefully. So those doing this job, be particularly careful with this bolt. If it snaps and you ruin the thread on the Strap Nut drilling out the bolt, and you want to replace that small strap, you will need to lift the body off frame to back the bolt out holding it to the body!

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4. Ok once strap bolts are removed, you can loosen the Hose Clamp from filler tube and the pinch clamp from vapor tube towards the back of the tank.

5. Remove the gas lines from the top of the tank through the access port to "free" the tank from the rest of the truck. (see image above)

6. Now, I was able to jack the front of the car up, and sneak the tank out the front without dropping the drive shaft from the back. BUT, knowing now that in order to get it back in easily, you really should remove the drive shaft in the rear and suspend it out of the way (leaving the front attached is fine) with bungee cords, I would have made my life easier just to remove the drive shaft in the first place. Make sure to remember to mark the shaft and flanges with white out or paint so re-align for proper harmonic balancing retention.

7. OK, now the tank is finally out! My neighbors wonder about the new Garden Ornament...

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8. Remove all the fuel sensor components from the center of the top of the tank. Be careful when removing you don't bend up the Float, etc. I replaced the Fuel Cutoff Check Valve while I was in there because you cannot get at it without dropping the tank again, and for $12, why not get another 25 years? Part #7738026010


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9. Remove the Filler neck components. I restored all these with a wire wheel brush, rust encapsulator and Chassis Paint and new fuel overflow check valve. New hoses as well.

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10. Getting ready to put tank back in, BUT, need to figure out a way to replace that strap I messed up drilling out.

It looks like I can only attach 5 images, so will continue in a Part 2 thread.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
19
Location
Boston, MA
11. Decided to really tighten up any rust under the truck. But it was weird. It seem like the Tank was a Rust Donor Sacrifice. Body behind tank was pristine, so I used a Truck Bed Poly Urea Coating to spray on the body before I put a new tank in.

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12. So, the PITA part was getting all the body mounts off on the driver side to lift the body to replace the small tank strap. I could have just backed the strap bolt with a new Nut, but I would have know it was not perfect! So here is the new strap. This is the one to be careful with backing out the original bolt. Avoiding having to replace this strap avoids having to lift the body to replace it.

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13. After trying to put the new tank in with drive shaft in place, realized I needed to remove the rear attachment and bungee out of the way.

14. Realized it was going to be a ordeal to set up the truck in the garage to lift the body on driver side and lift the truck frame enough to slip the tank in all with just one floor jack.

15. Flat Bed fully prepped truck to our amazing local Wellesley Toyota dealer who is super friendly to Land Cruiser owners and has a very experience Land Cruiser mechanic on site (Phil).

16. Phil uses cool multiple lift system to lift body and truck to replace the little front tank strap and slip in the tank and bolt it all up.

17. Fill thank and Drive!

So, I think the moral of the story if you don't want to lift the body and need to access a lift system or have 4 hydraulic jacks, is be careful with the little front driver side tank strap bolt. If you snap it off, it creates a LOT more work than just popping out the tank.

NOTE, it seems that the Rubber Body Mounts for the Series 80 are unobtainium. So don't mess them up! I have since ordered and received all new Body Mount Bolts, sleeves, washers and nuts (all in stock from Toyota N.A. dealers) So, if I need to "pop" the body up again (e.g., to replace fuel filler neck which is looking ugly), it should be a quick one.

Final Coup de Gras photo of installed tank with a coat of Truck Bed Liner on the Rock Shield.

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Joined
Feb 4, 2006
Messages
3,680
I did the same recently. I replaced everything which was pricey but the peace of mind was worth it. Unless you go aftermarket long range, there are no other options to OEM.
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Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
2,453
I did the same recently. I replaced everything which was pricey but the peace of mind was worth it. Unless you go aftermarket long range, there are no other options to OEM.
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I'd like to ask what it cost you to go with all factory parts? The reason i ask, when the time comes for me to replace my factory tank, If it isn't much less money then the cost of an aftermarket long range tank, i may end up going that route.
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2006
Messages
3,680
I'd like to ask what it cost you to go with all factory parts? The reason i ask, when the time comes for me to replace my factory tank, If it isn't much less money then the cost of an aftermarket long range tank, i may end up going that route.
[/QUOTE]

$1400 ish
I looked at every option. I thought about a long range tank but I just don’t need that for what I do.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
238
Location
North Dundas, Ontario
I just did mine too. Steam clean, wire wheel the seems, primer, paint, new gaskets and a generous slathering of LPS3 so don't need to look at it again.
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Joined
Aug 10, 2004
Messages
4,798
Location
Queens, NYC and sometimes Orlando, FL
My original was leaking from the top and got to the point where I could only fill it half way without dripping :doh:

Couldn't afford the downtime of pulling it to repair, so I picked up a rusty tank from the junkyard on the cheap and sent it to a radiator shop to have it boiled and sealed with RedKote



Been 4 years now with no issues :cool:
 

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