80 series front Axel pushing out dust cap (1 Viewer)

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Oct 4, 2015
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Victoria B.C. Canada
Hi everyone. Here is a conundrum I am facing. I recently serviced my front axel (ie: replaced axel shafts new bearings and seals.) After driving for the first time I noticed the right side dust cap was missing. After inspecting I could see that the axel had actually pushed out past the drive flange by 3/4". There was no weird noises or vibrations coming from the diff and it did not get hot, the axel shift just slid out and pushed the dust cap off.

I pulled it all apart and can't see any reason as to why it pushes out like that. The c clip in the cv joint was tight. And everything else looked good. The only thing I can come up with is that I over packed the Birfield with molly grease? Or that I have the wrong axel shaft. The left hand side was firm and secure.

Thanks for any ideas you guys have


🍺 cheers
 
The drive section of the bir field is restrained from moving out by the brass bushing on the inboard end of the spindle. If the brass bushing / or bushing / bearing combo is not in place the drive section of the birfiled could move out but not 3/4 of an inch. Did you change a birfiled joint? Later model birfilelds have longer drive section and a thicker drive flange.
 
^^^^^ This

Last time someone had this problem they had installed a thinner drive flange on a birfield with a longer stub axle. The two pats must match/mate together.
 
There is no way that you could get 3/4 of an inch of birfield drive section sticking out of the drive flange unless the outer end of the birfield was sheared offf.


F5C77BED-1781-4F8D-8016-3D94A817A205.jpeg
 
Yeah but the difference is 8mm not 3/4”

There is no way that you could get 3/4 of an inch of birfield drive section sticking out of the drive flange unless the outer end of the birfield was sheared offf.

1637608740995.png


The dust cap extends ~3/4 of an inch beyond the flange when secured in place. As shown in the drawing above the stub axle extends beyond the drive flange. Don't have an exact measurement of that but looks to be at least 3/8" and as shown the dust cap has curved edges. So adding another 8mm (1/3") to the 3/8" gives 0.7". Add to that the curvature in the end of the cap, slight wear on the spindle bushing and the possibility that dust cap may have been dented in somewhat makes the thinner drive flange the cause of the dust cap very possible.
 
I replaced both the dive flange, the outer Birfield, and the inner axel shaft, all new bushings bearings, and seals.

It is possible I have a mix up of some combination of Birfield and drive flange.

I will see if there are part# on them. Does anyone know the differences in sizes between the two?
 
You're sure the birfields match to the production year of the truck?
 
I have verified that all my parts are correct. The weird thing is the original birfields are shorter than the new ones by 3/8". The Old are 9 5/8" and the new ones are 9 7/8". I thought for sure this was my problem. However I talked to my parts supplier and he verified to me that 9 7/8" is the correct length of birfield for my year of truck. Also my left hand side has no issues and it's the exact same as the right.

Next thing I am going to check is the bushing in my spindles. I replace them with new ones, but maybe there is something going on with one of them.

As far as I can tell those bushings are what actually keeps the Birfield in place. Is that correct?

I plan to re assemble everything again next week and hopefully figure something out.

Keep the ideas coming any help is greatly appreciated!!!
 
Have you measured/compared the width of both of the drive flanges? If both of the original birfields are the shorter version, then the drive flanges I think would have to be the shorter/narrow versions in order to be able to install the c-clip on the end. Posting a picture will tell us which you have.
 
Have you measured/compared the width of both of the drive flanges? If both of the original birfields are the shorter version, then the drive flanges I think would have to be the shorter/narrow versions in order to be able to install the c-clip on the end. Posting a picture will tell us which you have.
I have compared both and they are both the same. From my discussions with the parts supplier today he confirmed I have the narrow flanges. Which is the correct flanges for my birfields
 
@Thecruiseinator, No the narrow drive flanges should be mated to the shorter birfields and the wider drive flanges with the longer birfields. I would not take the advice of your parts supplier.
 
There is no way that you could get 3/4 of an inch of birfield drive section sticking out of the drive flange unless the outer end of the birfield was sheared offf.


View attachment 2845619
This is why j can't figure out why it can slide out. The spindle was bolted tight to the knuckle housing. It shouldn't be able to go any farther
 
@Thecruiseinator, No the narrow drive flanges should be mated to the shorter birfields and the wider drive flanges with the longer birfields. I would not take the advice of your parts supplier.
From what I understand even though the newer birfields are longer they are far shorter than the "longer" ones. And it doesn't explain as to why the left hand side with the same parts has none of these issues that the right has.
 
From what I understand even though the newer birfields are longer they are far shorter than the "longer" ones. And it doesn't explain as to why the left hand side with the same parts has none of these issues that the right has.

Your getting bad information. There are only two sizes of birfields and two sizes of drive flanges. There are some aftermarket birfields the same length as OEM but they have two groves at the end of the stub axle so that locking hubs can be installed. What would explain differences between sides is that the spindle bushings are either different sizes or on the wheel you say is OK that the new bushing was not fully pressed into the spindle.
 
Your getting bad information. There are only two sizes of birfields and two sizes of drive flanges. There are some aftermarket birfields the same length as OEM but they have two groves at the end of the stub axle so that locking hubs can be installed. What would explain differences between sides is that the spindle bushings are either different sizes or on the wheel you say is OK that the new bushing was not fully pressed into the spindle.

Your getting bad information. There are only two sizes of birfields and two sizes of drive flanges. There are some aftermarket birfields the same length as OEM but they have two groves at the end of the stub axle so that locking hubs can be installed. What would explain differences between sides is that the spindle bushings are either different sizes or on the wheel you say is OK that the new bushing was not fully pressed into the spindle.
This makes sense. I ordered longer flanges.
 

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