Trust a museum relic,,, right!
Whatever....I wore Toyota Dealer Parts Manager's cleats for over a quarter century and I ran dealer parts departments for almost 40 years.
My experience is no less valid than yours.
80 or 100 brake pads?
- Thread starter rowdyrabbit
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Whatever....I wore Toyota Dealer Parts Manager's cleats for over a quarter century and I ran dealer parts departments for almost 40 years.
My experience is no less valid than yours.
It's that there aren't many 80's running around, and they are catering for the newer generations, so the alternatives they sugessted were for the 100 & 120 series. I do purchase from PartSouq, but the shipping & customs is a back-breaker, i still do it if I have too which is most of the time. For the 21 years and 480,000 Km's I've owned my babe, actually my second wife, I've never installed any parts that are not OEM, and I'm a believer in OEM from the experiences I had with my first vehicle, an 81 Jeep CJ-7.
My quest has ended well thank you for your wishes, changed front discs with OEM discs & pads last night, today I go for the rear pads.
Over my dead body, I needs manual transmission, gears & carburetor, I wants it so I can fixes it.
I'd like to think we're 2nd country here, 3rd is like Somalia & Yemen, we are a bit more organized in our chaos.
I'd trust me long before I would trust them
Trust a museum relic,,, right!
It is universally known that The Force is strong with this one........Live Long & Prosper.
Happily selling their new 4 & 6 Cyl Fortuner, a snap on/snap off vehicle but selling like cup-cakes.
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Lately I've been sucked into the chit-chat forum and my brain got mushy, I'm recuperating here at tech for the time being.
Is there a reason why my brake discs (both front & rear) wear more on the inside than the outside ?
Is there a reason why my brake discs (both front & rear) wear more on the inside than the outside ?
Most common reason would be your caliper piston(s) are not going back to their 'rest' position. This might be because of too much residual pressure in the caliper, but more likely seized, corroded guide pins or bushings, caliper seals have hardened, etc.
Roger that.....tkx.
On second thought, you mean that the pad still attains a certain clamping pressure on the discs after the break pedal is released ? i.e. contact between pad & disc is constant.
Yes, but not by 'design'. Rather because something in the system is amiss.
Disc brakes (unlike drum brakes) have no dedicated 'mechanical' mechanism (read springs) to retract the pads. So when the hydraulic pressure is released some functions must occur to allow the calipers piston(s) to return to what is referred to as their 'resting' position.
Inside your brake caliper is a special 'square cut' seal (O-ring if you will). When pressure is applied to the caliper piston (moving it outward) this 'seal' tilts slightly. When pressure is released it wants to return to its former position...thus retracting the piston(s) a very small amount. With the piston(s) now having slight clearance from the pad, the pad (or entire caliper) should be free to move.
Rotor run-out and wheel bearing tolerances are generally sufficient to 'kick' the pads outward such that only minimal contact occurs with the rotor (no significant friction).
Of course this can NOT occur if any of the following conditions exist:
1. Too much residual pressure exists (Brake booster pin gap not sufficient).
2. Worn Square Cut seals in caliper (Can not help retract piston).
3. Corroded or sticking slide pins (for calipers that free float/slide).
4. Issue with Master Cylinder bore or piston.
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Note, item #3 on the above list applies to the rear calipers only on the 80 Series. The front calipers do not float.
One additional cause would be rusty pistons hanging up in the caliper bores.
One additional cause would be rusty pistons hanging up in the caliper bores.
@flintknapper & @cruiserdan, thank you both for your input, highly appreciated.
I will go ahead and start on checking square cut seals first, perhaps a rebuilt of the caliper pistons as both the brake booster & Master cylinder are relatively new.
I will go ahead and start on checking square cut seals first, perhaps a rebuilt of the caliper pistons as both the brake booster & Master cylinder are relatively new.
I'm aware of adustment of the brake booster clearance but as I've never changed the brake booster in the time I've owned my 80 (7 yrs now) when I changed brake master cylinders (once to aftermarket, and more recently to a new genuine one) I've never worried about checking it. Isn't there meant to be an SST that's required apart from a feeler gauge to adjust it?
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Just to throw this into the mix.
Years back, so a dealer (enter your choice here) could compete with local shops selling aftermarket parts (brake pads for example), the dealer price may have just been say 20% higher? Many customers would insist I purchase from the dealer, and would pay that 20% to get OEM parts.........but they were NOT OEM!
Sure they looked good in pretty packaging, but they were a cheaper copy of that fitted to new production vehicles. Prodution pads (genuine OEM) were shrink wrapped to a piece of cardboard which had a simple part number on it, no customer would see them so why bother with packaging? They were on seperate shelves in the parts department, and these were the brakes fitted to fleet and lease vehicles, rental companies ect. And of course customers who would not blink at the bill, and at a guess were somewhere around 150+% more expensive than those handed to you over the parts counter but, these are the real deal.
And while I am here and to just to throw another spanner (no pun intended) in the works. Any small parts like pads/shoes/wiper blades/water pump and so forth were often swapped with an aftermarket part, then the original would be sold to a friend for a 'drink' over the aftermarket price.
To add a little balance to this sad but factual post, many aftermarket parts are those fitted to new production vehicles, look closely at the parts, you often find parts with the OE markings ground off.
Did all dealers do it? Who knows? Does it still happen? Definitely!
Regards
Dave
Years back, so a dealer (enter your choice here) could compete with local shops selling aftermarket parts (brake pads for example), the dealer price may have just been say 20% higher? Many customers would insist I purchase from the dealer, and would pay that 20% to get OEM parts.........but they were NOT OEM!
Sure they looked good in pretty packaging, but they were a cheaper copy of that fitted to new production vehicles. Prodution pads (genuine OEM) were shrink wrapped to a piece of cardboard which had a simple part number on it, no customer would see them so why bother with packaging? They were on seperate shelves in the parts department, and these were the brakes fitted to fleet and lease vehicles, rental companies ect. And of course customers who would not blink at the bill, and at a guess were somewhere around 150+% more expensive than those handed to you over the parts counter but, these are the real deal.
And while I am here and to just to throw another spanner (no pun intended) in the works. Any small parts like pads/shoes/wiper blades/water pump and so forth were often swapped with an aftermarket part, then the original would be sold to a friend for a 'drink' over the aftermarket price.
To add a little balance to this sad but factual post, many aftermarket parts are those fitted to new production vehicles, look closely at the parts, you often find parts with the OE markings ground off.
Did all dealers do it? Who knows? Does it still happen? Definitely!
Regards
Dave
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Dave2000: Now that is truly a cautionary tale, not to mention a nightmare. What did you do to overcome this evil? Was there no viable alternative to buying the SOB the drink?
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Never affected me at all, I knew what did (does) go on, they were not about to mess me about. It's only when you are in the trade that you realise how naive people can be, and how easy they were ripped off.
Regards
Dave
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Morning Cruiser Dan
By fresh flat rotors do you mean freshly turned rotors or are you saying start with new rotors when going to 100 series pads on the 80?
