Is it possible or even worth the hassle?
80 knuckles on 40 axle
- Thread starter mr jits
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rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Wouldn't that make it tough to do high steer?
Sent via the ether from my candy bar running ginger bread
Sent via the ether from my candy bar running ginger bread
- Thread starter
- #4
I'll measure the housing ends on the 80 axle today. Delancy, do you have a 40/55 and could you measure the diameter of the housing ends? Maybe I could sleeve and gusset the 40 axle to make it work? Biggest worry is having to use custom cut inner axles, that's just a pain and makes the idea that much more difficult in my mind.
Hi-steer is available for 80 knuckles, just $$ vs $ on a regular 40 set up.
Once you get the knucle balls on the housing your best bet for high steer is to get the hellfore knuckles. Ive got a set.... pretty nice!
Yes. Yes, but pretty sure it's 3".
What are you trying to achieve, out of curiosity?
Thinking you'd have to run custom inner axles, since the 40 is 27 spline and 80 is 30 at birf. Think the later 40s and 80 are 30 at the diff end, though.
- Thread starter
- #7
Was thinking of having the robustness of the 80 birf and big disc brakes, but if I'd have to run custom shafts its not worth it.
Its not worth it.
Get Longs and be done with it.
Get Longs and be done with it.
Are the 80 brakes that much of an improvement?
Thinking the same as 60s and the 60 conversion would be a lot cheaper, plus high steer options are more economical.
Semi off topic.
Have been contemplating a Shorty Pig wheeler and was bent on an 80 rear axle, complete, with 80 outers on the front, mostly for the added width, but also for continuity amongst spares.
My thinking was a custom front housing to achieve, which is $$$, but then leaves steering to address, which is $$$$, especially for HF knuckles.
Pretty much, a lot of custom, cobbled up stuff....
Thinking if you're keeping the 40 housings, going to 60 stuff, knuckle out, makes the most sense from a monetary, as well a bolt on, easy to acquire parts for perspective.
Bigger brakes and (assumption, since housing has to grind) slightly more robust birfs.
- Thread starter
- #10
I was thinking the 80 knuckles because they and the 80 birfields are larger and more robust than the other LC offerings. From doing more research though, my money and time are better spent building the 40 axles with longs and mini-truck parts.
Was just thinking a bit and wanted to see what others have thought of or done before.
And just to answer the question, yes, the 80 brakes are fantastic.
Was just thinking a bit and wanted to see what others have thought of or done before.
And just to answer the question, yes, the 80 brakes are fantastic.
Wanna buy my set up?
here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/783827-redesigned-xtd-40-a.html
D.
here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/783827-redesigned-xtd-40-a.html
D.
Did you narrow the axles?
80 birfs are 24 spline
Are you talking about the dana 60 front? : yes, has been narrowed to 64"
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
^This
The 80 series birfield star gear and inner axle shaft diameter are the same as the 60 / 40 / mini stuff IIRC, so while birf may not explode, your star gear and shaft will.
Get longs and fogettaboutit.
Get longs and fogettaboutit.
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I realize this is useless info but here goes....
On Nissan Patrols, guys with Y60/Y61 models (1988-present) have found you can swap the previous model, 160-series, knuckles on the later axles. What this does and why they do it, it removes the tie rod from behind the axle. On a Patrol, just like a radius arm Cruiser, the tie rod is behind the axle and a bit low. So the result is a conventional cross over steering. I am not sure if they have to mess with the panhard but the panhard is the same on a Patrol, ie in front of the axle. It is a fairly well known mod in Australia.
Like I say, worthless info for Cruiser owners. I had wondered a while ago if it would be possible on a Cruiser though, ie swap 60 knuckles to an 80-axle. I was told no go due to the size of the knuckle ball and the actual knuckle.
Cheers
On Nissan Patrols, guys with Y60/Y61 models (1988-present) have found you can swap the previous model, 160-series, knuckles on the later axles. What this does and why they do it, it removes the tie rod from behind the axle. On a Patrol, just like a radius arm Cruiser, the tie rod is behind the axle and a bit low. So the result is a conventional cross over steering. I am not sure if they have to mess with the panhard but the panhard is the same on a Patrol, ie in front of the axle. It is a fairly well known mod in Australia.
Like I say, worthless info for Cruiser owners. I had wondered a while ago if it would be possible on a Cruiser though, ie swap 60 knuckles to an 80-axle. I was told no go due to the size of the knuckle ball and the actual knuckle.
Cheers
The weak link continues to move when you start running big tires. Longs solve the issue with birfields but you also start having issues with knuckles and steering arm studs, solve this with 6 shooter knuckles and you start killing trunnion bearings. The 80 axle does have advantages over the mini/LC stuff with bigger knuckles with greater distance between the trunnion bearings as well as significantly better brakes. The downside is that it's more difficult to run high steer, there are solutions however they are $$.
To get back to the OP, the most feasible option is to build the axle full width, the 80 birfs are 24 spline and are not compatible with mini/ LC shafts which are 27 spline at the birf. There was briefly a solution on the market with the long field 30 spline 80 birfs but they are no longer available (nitro may have something however).
There is a thread on here where someone built a 80 width 9.5 axle by putting 80 knuckle balls on a cut to proper width rear housing. IMHO this is the way to go.
Eta:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...eries-weak-link-all-toyota-hd-front-axle.html
I realize that the weak link moves around when doing strength upgrades. My point was to convey that there is no real point in upgrading to 80 outers for inner axle strength. The knuckles maybe stronger, but I've seen as many broken 80 knuckles as I have 60 / 40 / mini knuckles. Hellfire knuckles are as expensive, if not more so, than 6-shooters.
Due to the weak link moving around, I can't recommend building a hybrid 80/60/40 axle, with longs, 6 shooters or anything. While cool, it's a lot of money to spend on an axle that's no stronger than a Dana 60.
Beating a dead horse, I know, but if you're going for overall strength, go straight to a Dana 60 front end and skip the built Toyota front end, unless you're building a strictly Toyota-only truck.
Due to the weak link moving around, I can't recommend building a hybrid 80/60/40 axle, with longs, 6 shooters or anything. While cool, it's a lot of money to spend on an axle that's no stronger than a Dana 60.
Beating a dead horse, I know, but if you're going for overall strength, go straight to a Dana 60 front end and skip the built Toyota front end, unless you're building a strictly Toyota-only truck.
Longfield inner and outers, six-shooters and trunion eliminators make for damn stout axles.
D60s are cool, but are huge, heavy and require custom inners unless you go full width. They also require different rims.
All in all I'm not sure you could build D60s cheaper than a well built cruiser axle.
D60s are cool, but are huge, heavy and require custom inners unless you go full width. They also require different rims.
All in all I'm not sure you could build D60s cheaper than a well built cruiser axle.
