7x Series w/Electric Hub Owners - Have you rebuilt your knuckles?

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We've developed a kit for the 7x Series with the OE Electric Actuated Hubs, i.e. those with this button:

hub_lock.webp


The kit has all of the standard knuckle kit offerings BUT I wanted to get some feedback from those owners who have done knuckle overhauls and see if they needed the following:

Did you replace these? The T20 Torx Screws or the Power Locking Hub Slip Ring that the screws hold to the actual spindle nut?

e-hub.GIF


We are considering adding these to our e-hub kit offerings if more customers than not are using/needing them during the rebuild. Thoughts?
 
Nobody eh?

This might foreshadow just how many of these kits we will be selling :D
 
Well if you tear down the front end, let us help :D



I suppose we also ought to build a e-hub specific wheel bearing kit and those same 3 torx screws have to come out for that too.
 
I got rid of this nightmare of a setup and went to the good old fashioned setup that has been running in cruisers since the 70s.

I used parts from a bj74 but it shouldn't be a big deal to get some from a 40 or 60.
 
I got rid of this nightmare of a setup and went to the good old fashioned setup that has been running in cruisers since the 70s.

I used parts from a bj74 but it shouldn't be a big deal to get some from a 40 or 60.

We can easily supply the needed parts to convert but some preferred to leave it in tact.
 
I love my e-hubs. No I did not replace the torx screws, but I would have if I had some. I think the biggest unique thing people will need are new e-hub brushes and some special electrical slip ring grease to go in there. Now if you can find those you'll have a winning kit. I had to make my own new e-hub brushes and used "Dow Corning Molykote 44 Light" grease in the e-hubs. 4 years and counting they still work great. I used regular bearing grease in the wheel bearings of course.
 
Hi,
I just fabricated new brushes for my LC71!
Is there by any change that you have the Toyota workshop manual for the electric hub? I downloaded the workshop manual on this site but it not complete. I dont have the SA 6 cahpter.

I think you should throw in the screws in the kit.
 
I love my e-hubs. No I did not replace the torx screws, but I would have if I had some. I think the biggest unique thing people will need are new e-hub brushes and some special electrical slip ring grease to go in there. Now if you can find those you'll have a winning kit. I had to make my own new e-hub brushes and used "Dow Corning Molykote 44 Light" grease in the e-hubs. 4 years and counting they still work great. I used regular bearing grease in the wheel bearings of course.

Hi, did you putt new grese on the brushes?
 
Hi,
I just fabricated new brushes for my LC71!
Is there by any change that you have the Toyota workshop manual for the electric hub? I downloaded the workshop manual on this site but it not complete. I dont have the SA 6 cahpter.

I think you should throw in the screws in the kit.

I printed the whole hub section of the RM183e SA chapter to pdf and have attached it here. Resolution is not that great, sorry. It includes all the e-hub information.
 

Attachments

Hi, did you putt new grese on the brushes?

Yes, I put grease on the brushes, slip rings and motor gears. I did this to reduce the rate of wear. Seems to be working very well. This is the stuff:

DOW-DC44LIGHT5-30Z.jpg
 
Kurt,

The T20 screws can be very problematic and frequently strip out the torx heads when trying to remove these.

There are methods of removing them, that I'd be willing to share, that improve the chances of getting them out intact.

The slip rings have occasionally been a problem, causing the hubs to not work, from cracks in the brass that cause intermittent conductivity or not conductivity at all.

So, yes, if people are wanting to stick with these hubs it would be a great idea to put the screws in the kit.


~John
 
We've developed a kit for the 7x Series with the OE Electric Actuated Hubs, i.e. those with this button:

View attachment 1288828

The kit has all of the standard knuckle kit offerings BUT I wanted to get some feedback from those owners who have done knuckle overhauls and see if they needed the following:

Did you replace these? The T20 Torx Screws or the Power Locking Hub Slip Ring that the screws hold to the actual spindle nut?

View attachment 1288842

We are considering adding these to our e-hub kit offerings if more customers than not are using/needing them during the rebuild. Thoughts?


Please please please include the bits with your kits! And the electric gasket too.

I stripped out 1 of the bolts when I started my front axel rebuild which caused me to put a hold on the rebuild as I didn't have the parts in hand to drill and tap the screws. I would even see if you can include 1 or 2 bolts, per side, that are 1 size up in the threaded diameter.
 
Please please please include the bits with your kits! And the electric gasket too.

I stripped out 1 of the bolts when I started my front axel rebuild which caused me to put a hold on the rebuild as I didn't have the parts in hand to drill and tap the screws. I would even see if you can include 1 or 2 bolts, per side, that are 1 size up in the threaded diameter.

Electric gasket, assuming we are talking about the face gasket shown in the bottom here?
7x Series Knuckle Kits for Electric Hub Models - New Offering

I think we are a go to add the Torx and Slip Ring, we've got some here and bulk inbound. Both of the recent setups we serviced including one this week in the shop needed the screws and rings.

Old vs. new ring, pretty pronounced groove in the old, both sides were this way:

image.webp
 
Kurt,

The T20 screws can be very problematic and frequently strip out the torx heads when trying to remove these.

There are methods of removing them, that I'd be willing to share, that improve the chances of getting them out intact.

The slip rings have occasionally been a problem, causing the hubs to not work, from cracks in the brass that cause intermittent conductivity or not conductivity at all.

So, yes, if people are wanting to stick with these hubs it would be a great idea to put the screws in the kit.


~John

I figured you had seen a fair number of these. If you had to guess, how many have you serviced over the years? I peaked at the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum today, exactly 3 rigs there with em, a BJ and two LJ's. I've not gone through the the EPC to verify out existing FA7X97E kits will also fit the LJ axle.
 
Electric gasket, assuming we are talking about the face gasket shown in the bottom here?
7x Series Knuckle Kits for Electric Hub Models - New Offering

I think we are a go to add the Torx and Slip Ring, we've got some here and bulk inbound. Both of the recent setups we serviced including one this week in the shop needed the screws and rings.

Old vs. new ring, pretty pronounced groove in the old, both sides were this way:

View attachment 1289540
I'll be ordering this from y'all shortly.
 
I figured you had seen a fair number of these. If you had to guess, how many have you serviced over the years? I peaked at the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum today, exactly 3 rigs there with em, a BJ and two LJ's. I've not gone through the the EPC to verify out existing FA7X97E kits will also fit the LJ axle.

We've seen lots of them, mostly on the LJ78s which were very popular hear until poor maintenance and head issues started seeing their popularity decline.

The KZJs also have the e-hubs, along with the HZJs etc.

As for numbers we've serviced - it's quite a few, but there's no way I could give you a specific number. The most common issue we used to encounter was when a shop or a individual would try to put the hubs back on without retracting the brushes and making the hubs pretty much useless as brushes then have to scavenged or made by hand.

We have also sold lots of the hub conversion adapter plates over the years to remove them and bolt on Aisin or Warn locking hubs.

And about every other hub seems to strip out one of those T20 screws, even with lots of experience taking them out with various tricks to reduce breakage (and I've gone through a lot of lifetime warranty T20 bits).

~John
 

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