Build 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)

[merbesfield]

Thanks! Any good brands of seam sealer that are recommended? I've known I need to do that, but haven't given it much thought up to this point...

I like Wurth Brushable Sean sealer. Used many many cans over the years. High quality and delivered to your door.

Brushable Seam Sealer 1-Quart Can | Brushable | Seam Sealer | Adhesive and Bonding | Chemical Product | Wurth USA

Brushable Seam Sealer Description 1 qt. Can Brushable Seam Sealer seals cracks, crevices and body seams. It also waterproofs and insulates. Brushable Seam Sealer is flexible; will not crack, shrink, harden or sag and it is paintable in 45 minutes. It is a 100% rubberized seam and joint sealer...

www.wurthusa.com

 

[Curtice]

So I ordered a new set of rocker panels. While I am waiting for those, a few updates on some random work.

Plugged what felt like a hundred holes in the dash. Many came from the dash pads (which I am deleting), but there were a bunch of others too. I just plugged them with the mig welder, slowly filling each each hole, using a brass backing. I'm not totally sure if I did it right, but this is how it turned out.

Then spent some time grinding them down and I think it turned out well. Some uneveness from my grinding which I guess means I'll need a slight layer of body filler.

Also powder coated my intake manifold. Decided I liked the shiny black valve cover, so did the same here:

Lastly, transmission rebuild slowly coming along. Painted the case and my son has started assembly, after we did all of the gap measurements, etc. per FSM instructions. So far, just have the input shaft bearing installed.

 

[dmaddox]

Looks amazing - well done man! Your powder coating especially. I’m debating on picking up an old oven. With real estate completely out of control here in New York, I’m just short on space.

keep up the great work. Are you not a fan of the dash pads? Just wondering why your route for the delete. Your starting to pull away! I’m making brake lines.

Anyway good luck!!

 

[Curtice]

I just really like the clean look of no dash pads. So I figured while I am customizing, why not do the delete?

And lol on the pulling away comment. I am so overwhelmed right now by all the body work I have to do. Here are a few pics of all the things that need fixin, before I even get to "body work"...and I don't even know how to do it haha.

 

[dmaddox]

Meh - just a flesh wound. I have a windshield frame (the one my cruiser came with) that should be in much better shape. Good thing we are (literally) on opposite ends of the continent. The only minor issue I recalled was the little bolt holes at the top of the frame were cut and needed to be fixed, but much easier than all the rust you are dealing with on this one. Just a thought - we can cross that bridge later.

Solid work so far. Hang in there on the body work. It will all come together. My tub is tossed in the corner while I try to catch up with you on the rolling chassis, awaiting quarters.

Take care!

 

[rickpaw]

Those rust spots should be easy to repair. Just poke at it one piece at a time.

 

[dmaddox]

Agree, any rust can be fixed, but you have a few difficult curves to work with on a windshield frame!

 

[Curtice]

Yeah, that curved part on the windshield frame is one thing that has me worried. I don't know that I can remake the curved part, so my thought was weld in a series of small pieces, slowly recreating the original.

 

[dmaddox]

If its possible, I'd measure and cut a piece of steel and then form the strip into the pocket over the rust to get a near matching curve, then after it is cut out, tack in the strip, match and bend perfectly to the curve of the windshield.

The part thats going to be a bear is the lip upward which makes seat for the windshield. Don't get overwhelmed, like I have been! One little project at a time.

 

[dmaddox]

How are things going Curtice?

 

[Curtice]

Thanks for checking in. Slow going, so I haven't posted. I received some new rockers from @fourlow&go and they are awesome. They definitely fit better and are super beefy, so it was a good choice. It just taking a ton of time to get all the pieces to fit right. I've had to take the tub off a few times to adjust the holes for the body mounts. The new tub doesn't sit perfectly level (the body mounts on one side are not level with the other), so this is making it hard. I don't think I am ever going to be able to get it perfect...as long as I can get the doors to shut and latch without and resistance, i'll be happy.

My other issue right now, though I don't know if there is anything I can do about it short of getting another new tub (or deciding to fix the original after all), is that the rear opening where the tailgate goes is about 1/4" wider than stock at the top (it’s almost 1/2” wider at the sill). I thought I had solved that by building my own tailgate the right length. But I didn't think about what it meant for the lift hatch. So the problem I have now is the gap on each side of the lift hatch slowly widens as it gets lower, and this is killing my OCD. See pic below. I can adjust the header so that the gap is just wider the whole way down (which is probably what i'll do assuming it doesn't mess hop the cap fitment), but that leaves a pretty wide gap and i'm worried that the weatherstrip won't be enough to keep water out.

Overall, here is how it is looking so far. I'd rename my thread 'project wrong way' if that wasn't already taken. I'm a bit frustrated at some decisions i've made (buying a new SA tub instead of fixing the old one, or purchasing a 1/2 tub instead of a 3/4), but I guess it's all part of the learning experience. I've read there is fast, cheap, and easy. Pick 2, but you can't have all three. Unfortunately, I have chosen slow, hard, and expensive as my route.

Also been working on the transmission rebuild. I have another thread to track that and ask questions. Have been a bit stuck, so if anyone knows anything about that, its here: H42 Rebuild - a few questions

 

[Curtice]

Welp one of those days...

Ive been spending time drilling all the holes in the tub for roll bar, jump seats, fuel line, jack holders. Got all the holes drilled and thought “I’m gonna weld in the captive nuts for everything”. So I did that and it went pretty well. My welds are coming along, but still a bit ugly. Still, I had penetration and they held strong.

Only afterwards, as I was admiring my handiwork, did I realize I completely forgot to weld in the roll bar support braces first. These:

So now I get to cut off all 16 of the roll bar captive nuts that I welded in...

 

[dmaddox]

Ah geez. I hope you held your composure better than I would have.

then again, Ijust about finished my tcase today and turned around to a bearing race sitting there. Yeah.

hang in there brother.

 

[Curtice]

Luckily I have a cushioned shop chair...

 

[White Stripe]

I would figure out what they did to make the door gap so bad and fix it. I think that will end up being a problem otherwise for you. What a hassle. You may have to remove the rear floor and sill, modify them and weld back together. Sounds like a lot of work but won't be too bad.

 

[Curtice]

Oh man that does not sound like something I want to do. The two issues I can potentially see are issue with the fiberglass cap and raingutter fit and the weather stripping not being big enough for a slightly larger gap

Before I get drastic, what I’m hoping is that I can get everything fitted and lined up to an acceptable point. I actually ended up getting an Aqualu tailgate - that should be delivered this week. Then I can get it in, put the sides and hatch back one, and see how things are.

 

[dmaddox]

Excellent plan, fit first and then see where you need to focus any modifications or fab work. If this can all fit nicely together, mocked up, you can then take a step back and exhale, knowing you can focus on tidbits, body work and having a beer.

 

[Curtice]

Anyone want to tell me about weld through primer? I bought some to spray on all my mating surfaces that will be welded together. So floor to tub flanges, Under the roll bar support bracket, etc.

So I just spray it and have at the welding? I can weld right over the primer?

 

[JLawson]

Curtice,
Where did you get those roll bar support brackets? I could use a couple pair. Nice job by the way! Keep it going and you will be ridin’ in no time...?

 

[changingground]

Anyone want to tell me about weld through primer? I bought some to spray on all my mating surfaces that will be welded together. So floor to tub flanges, Under the roll bar support bracket, etc.

So I just spray it and have at the welding? I can weld right over the primer?

We got some to use when welding up my son’s bumper. Welded through just fine (a bit sooty) but we haven’t had much wet weather since completing the project, so I can’t testify as to it’s protective efficacy during winter weather.