'76 Frame straightening attempt

[AZguy]

Good afternoon. I picked up a 76 FJ40 a few weeks back. I was aware the drivers frame rail had about a 3 in. downward pitch to it. my first thought was a little heat, jack her up with a floor jack and I'm good to go. Didn't budge of course. Then I took more drastic measures. (I thought) and went and got a 10 ton porto power set. I was able to get it to come up about an inch then progress stalled out. I THINK my issue is I only have a bernzomatic propane torch used for soldering and I'm not getting the metal hot enough to become flexible. If I go find some oxy acetylene torches and get that rail glowing orange will she come up the rest of the way? Appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

 

[too tall]

Good technique , you need more power. Maybe try the same approach with a 15 or 20 ton bottle jack.

 

[renago]

Bad technique , you need to disconnect all accessories , next to the damaged frame , and get the frame locked down .
then pulling or pushing accordingly .

 

[AZguy]

Bad technique , you need to disconnect all accessories , next to the damaged frame , and get the frame locked down .
then pulling or pushing accordingly .

Well, I don't exactly have a frame machine in my garage, so locking it down isn't really an option unless you have a suggestion to do that?

 

[renago]

if you don't block the frame to some thing it will be impossible to push/pull it to straighten it.
of course heating it will help , but blocking it is the main point .
can't help you with out seeing the damage .
try to work out some thing , maybe wood against a pillar ?

 

[1969FJ]

Professional frame shop, that is all.

 

[too tall]

I disagree with the need to lock it down. Lock it down to what? Why? The bent part is the area he is addressing. I have straightened lots of frames without locking them down or to anything and have had great success. A good flat piece of concrete will most likely get you the measurements needed to check for straightness after the fact. If your truck was a pristine excellent condition survivor, I would maybe consider a frame shop. It is a 45 year old rig that might not be worth what a frame shop would charge you to fix it.
Just my opinion, a lot of guys on here will give you advice about how they would do repairs like that but some of them have much larger wallets than others.
Real Oxy acetylene torches would help. Benzo torches aren't much good for anything except heating up smaller bolts for removal. Get more power and go slow. Watch for deflection in other areas around where you are working . Use a hammer to help move it when the load is on.
Good luck.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Your load application point is way too far to the rear of the truck move that thing forward to a couple inches behind the crossmember to pull more vertically.

Rocky

 

[rustybucket]

Bad technique , you need to disconnect all accessories , next to the damaged frame , and get the frame locked down .
then pulling or pushing accordingly .

A long time ago I used to work in a mixed automotive repair & Body Shop. They have a special platform that the hydraulic Pistons that would lock into and it would use chains to bend the frame back into shape

 

[island45]

Too Tall, I like the way you think. As a young man back in the mid '80s I took my fj55 to a real frame shop and they broke two chains and pulled one of the 'dead man' bolts outa their floor. They gave up. Years later with some sheet metal off I did a very similar treatment to the chain and bottle jack. With lots of oxy-atcetylene. I never got it to measure perfect, but after all these years it tracks straight and doesn't use up tires.

 

[renago]

DEspite the various opinions ,of what is right or Azguy has a badly bent /crush frame and needs a solution .
Too old truck to spend lots of $$$ in a frame repair shop.
Too short on tools to make a job in house .
Relooking at the photos posted , but could be wrong , also the front lest side looks rather not straight....
Considering the right side , If it was mine with your tools , I would cut the crushed part ,till the jot of the frame .
Straighten and after weld it back .
Consider that th welding point will be stronger then the original part.
Much less work , safer, 100% grade of success .

Just my 2 cents

 

[AZguy]

DEspite the various opinions ,of what is right or Azguy has a badly bent /crush frame and needs a solution .
Too old truck to spend lots of $$$ in a frame repair shop.
Too short on tools to make a job in house .
Relooking at the photos posted , but could be wrong , also the front lest side looks rather not straight....
Considering the right side , If it was mine with your tools , I would cut the crushed part ,till the jot of the frame .
Straighten and after weld it back .
Consider that th welding point will be stronger then the original part.
Much less work , safer, 100% grade of success .

Just my 2 cents

Sounds like a good solution. I appreciate your input.

 

[waiting for time]

Looks like you are still on the wheels, maybe start with putting it on jack stands so you can measure more accuratel.
Next take the frame drawings and measure everything. You can draw the dimensions on the floot with chalk. Best is to piece together a jig with angle iron that shows you what the position of the frame should be.
This makes it a bit more accurate.
be careful with heat on the frame, do not cool it rapidly, welds are harder than the frame material and therefore more brittle. They will crack sooner under load.

 

[AZguy]

Looks like you are still on the wheels, maybe start with putting it on jack stands so you can measure more accuratel.
Next take the frame drawings and measure everything. You can draw the dimensions on the floot with chalk. Best is to piece together a jig with angle iron that shows you what the position of the frame should be.
This makes it a bit more accurate.
be careful with heat on the frame, do not cool it rapidly, welds are harder than the frame material and therefore more brittle. They will crack sooner under load.

Appreciate the advice.