76-77 winch technical question

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My winch has been unhooked from battery as I’m sure it caused some parasitic drain on battery for my PO…bought it unhooked. Just hooked up to battery and tried …

mall I hear when I press in or out is a clicking … and then no movement..

many help diagnosing from this description and pics? I could clean up all the connections but I mean electrically it’s getting it. Maybe there’s one point that’s over corroded that mean to control th it out of cable - I don’t know - I’m making that up

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pb4ugo

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You can clean the connections and see if that works. It's most likely a bad solenoid or two. Im not sure if they are still available. A lot of folks upgrade the solenoids to an Albright unit. Maybe some other folks who are familiar with this upgrade will chime in. Or use the search here and in the winching section.
 

1911

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First step would be to clean all the connections, it might just be a bad connections somewhere. You can test the solenoids with a multi meter to see if they're working by energizing the small post and measuring continuity of the larger post. That will at least tell you which of the 4 solenoids are working.

You can also connect the motor directly to a battery to test it, you'll need a set of jumper cables and one other jumper wire to connect between 2 of the three posts.
 
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‘clicking’ can also be from inadequate power.

before you get too involved, insure that both ends of the pos and neg are good/clean.

then remove and clean all other contacts

... and get a new cover
 
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I now have "clicking" when toggling in AND for out, when before there was no sound/reaction on the out and clicking when I actuated the "in". Anyways, I need to tear her open and clean her and maybe it just needs a new engine component. ill know more when I open her up. I just thought someone might have experienced the same and knew what to do they hear it trying to work but no movement.

battery electrical points were cleaned nice and shiny and I have disconnected the car leads and just had the fully charged 12v yellow top optima as the nothin it was hooked too. so no power shortage. locked up? gummed up? something....
 
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can't find them on warn - going to call their tech assistance next but
does anyone know where to find replacement winch cable lines?
I know I could but short length and make it myself but I dont have the tool to crimp it and its $85 for the tool (haven't looked on amazon) but still id only be using it once...went to Napa smallest they had at the store and the guy seemed to think the smallest they had was 6inches ... which works for one part but I need these other 2 short to fit in box and just plain hook up correctly..
would appreciate anyone that knew a source
I also posted on winches section but get less responses as that section isn't looked at as much

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can't find them on warn - going to call their tech assistance next but
does anyone know where to find replacement winch cable lines?
I know I could but short length and make it myself but I dont have the tool to crimp it and its $85 for the tool (haven't looked on amazon) but still id only be using it once...went to Napa smallest they had at the store and the guy seemed to think the smallest they had was 6inches ... which works for one part but I need these other 2 short to fit in box and just plain hook up correctly..
would appreciate anyone that knew a source

Most NAPA parts houses will make them up for you, at very reasonable cost. Just tell them how long, what gauge, what size of ring terminals, etc. You could just take the old ones there and have them use those as a guide, though it wouldn't hurt to use heavier gauge cable.
 
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Warn should be very helpful with sourcing replacement parts for you. Those cables look ok to me, can almost guarantee that the solenoids are bad. Very easy to check. See post above about applying 12V to the small post and checking continuity across the large posts.
 

pb4ugo

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Warn should be very helpful with sourcing replacement parts for you. Those cables look ok to me, can almost guarantee that the solenoids are bad. Very easy to check. See post above about applying 12V to the small post and checking continuity across the large posts.
I agree, it's most likely the solenoids are bad, but those cables are dry rotted and cracking. They most definitely need to be replaced. Probably any electrical supply place or a local repair shop may have the tools to make cables. Maybe a welder supply house.

As for winch cable, 1st you need to figure out if you want nylon rope style or actual steel cable. I use steel aircraft cable because nylon rope would not hold up to the abuse I inflict on it. Warn and other suppliers offer cable. I found a local Wire Rope, and Cable supplier that sells the cable in any length I need and they will put a loop on the end per the size I need. They have the fittings and press to make a permanent loop on the end. You might be able to find someplace local to you.
 
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Most NAPA parts houses will make them up for you, at very reasonable cost. Just tell them how long, what gauge, what size of ring terminals, etc. You could just take the old ones there and have them use those as a guide, though it wouldn't hurt to use heavier gauge cable.

called Napa and asked if they could do that if I paid - "we dont do that anymore"
called O'reilly : "we dont do that"
it was like really !? you can't .. or you dont want to
 
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I agree, it's most likely the solenoids are bad, but those cables are dry rotted and cracking. They most definitely need to be replaced. Probably any electrical supply place or a local repair shop may have the tools to make cables. Maybe a welder supply house.

As for winch cable, 1st you need to figure out if you want nylon rope style or actual steel cable. I use steel aircraft cable because nylon rope would not hold up to the abuse I inflict on it. Warn and other suppliers offer cable. I found a local Wire Rope, and Cable supplier that sells the cable in any length I need and they will put a loop on the end per the size I need. They have the fittings and press to make a permanent loop on the end. You might be able to find someplace local to you.
I meant they look ok enough to probably work for testing purposes, but agree they don't look good for regular use and should be replaced. Again I would think these would be pretty available from @Warn Industries
 
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If you buy a new control pack from Warn it should come with the cables. Mine did. I think WARN 38845 is the part number but I would call Warn to confirm
View attachment 2773848
I was eyeing this and I think its the way im going to go...easiest....
also for testing the engine component....after opening up I found some grease and lubricants inside...on copper...so that has to be bad...prolly need a new engine too?
 

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