Builds '75 FJ40 Ranch Rebuild

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Final piece to the puzzle! THE LOCKING HUBS... Got new hub dial o rings and hub detents. Got the dials/locking hubs refurbed, put together, lubed up and torqued down! Need new factory steelies next. I already have new hubcaps.
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These are previous updates..
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Started the tear down for the greasable shackle bolts, new bushings, u bolt flip kit and front spring re-arch.
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The new greasable shackle bolts are bigger in diameter than the bolts that originally came with my anti inversion shackles 15 years ago. I had to drill out all the holes, that was rough. I believe the anti inversion shackles come with greasable bolts now.
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Newly re-arched springs, bushings and bolts mounted up. The old bushings were non existent, lots of popping and groaning with flex.
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Mounted up the 4 Plus front u bolt flip kit. This is a nice piece of engineering!! Much less hang up and looks stronger. Don't worry, I trimmed the u bolts..
 
They don't always use their "warning buzzer".
 
Wow, that's insane! But gosh it opens up a lot of cool possibilities for naming you 40 if u haven't done so yet!

Rig is looking great btw.
 
Not a very nice little helper !!!
 
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The GM alternator conversion has been a great update for me! The 4 AWG wire directly to the battery really helps when charging under load while using the winch, lights and so on. I've melted the leads to the factory alternator before which may or may not charge the battery fully after 15 minutes of run time. This is the alternator mount that I used that bolted right up with very minimal grinding on the bottom mount.

Alternator from a 1995/96 Caddy Fleetweed Broughnom is what I started with. Thats a CS144 case, with the 12 and 6 mounting locations. If your current pulley won't line up on the new alternator, order a power master 111 dual belt pulley to help alignment. I believe I went to Orileys for the alternator. They sell the pigtail there as well. That makes it very easy to wire up.

You need a 4 AWG wire with ring terminals to go from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. There is a plug with four wires, starting with the big wire (it has the larger of the four pins) they are:

S - connect this right to the "+" stud on the alternator with a ring terminal (big wire)
F - Not needed
L - Connect to 12V key on source at the fuse panel
P - Not used

The fuse panel has blade terminals on the back of it to hook up the 12v key on source. DO NOT USE THE AMP GAUGE, it may melt or catch fire, you'll have to pull out the cluster, disconnect the amp gauge and wire the two amp gauge wires together to complete the circuit. Then you'll need to disconnect the factory external regulator. That's it! Two wires with the third being the 4AWG to the battery. Very easy set up.

Some may say you need to wire in a 12v light to the 12v key on wire but you don't need it. Some threads may mention to wire up an alternator light, that's unnecessary too. If anything, wire up a digital volt gauge or buy a volt gauge that you can plug into the cig lighter if you ever have any questions as to weather the the vehicle is charging.
 
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Just got my new dash pad then sanded and painted the metal insert/clip to keep it from rusting. This is a fj40dash.com dash pad. I really like the quality, flexibility and it seems like it would withstand the elements much better than OEM. By flexibility I mean it is more forgiving than OEM when someone puts their weight on it when getting out of the back seat. The fit and construction seem amazing. The price is great too.

There are just two things that don't bother me one bit but it may bother some. First, it's not OEM. Second, the finish is not completely uniform which is hardly noticeable. I am extremely pleased with it so far and would recommend to anyone looking for a dash replacement! Website below... Take a look!

FJ40 Dash Pad
 
So do y'all ever start a small simple project with the most tame and innocent of intentions and then have things spiral dangerously and quickly outta control??? Well, that just happened to me.. I started out to replace the rubber stopper on the brake pedal that activates the light switch and couldn't really get to it very well. So I decided to take off the pedal assembly. To my surprise (shoulda known it wouldn't be simple) I had to take the steering column, gas pedal, rag joint, computer, booster and slave cylinder off... Now, I figure while I have them off, I may as well have some of them powder coated and do some minor restoration to the wiring harness. That escalated quickly!!
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