74' f engine rebuild

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The push rods

On a flat surface, I rolled the pushrods back and forth, not rocket science here, no neeed for a surface plate if they are bent then you will know it. Cleaned them and inserted in their place.
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Valve train assembly.

I included this picture of my old rocker shaft to remind you that you must check down the rocker assembly pillow blocks to make sure those notches visible on the shaft are lined up vertical prior to installing the rocker assembly. clean mating surfaces, carefully slide the assembly down on the four installed rocker posts. Excercise some patience here, as you tighten down the assembly make sure the pushrods are not jamming up under the rockers, go SLOW, adjust the pushrod adjuster nuts accordingly leave them as loose as needed. OK, you can stop laughing now, yes indeed, research has shown that it is impossible to install your pushrods after installing the rocker assembly. Once torqued down then finish by adjusting any slack out of the valve train. Set teh valve gap later. Did you check to make sure the pushrods are properly seated on the lifters?
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Great thread!! I'm on pins and needles waiting for the next episode!
 
software related posting issue

Thanks handcannon! How did you like the three inches of rain last night, thinking I should be working on a boat instead. I've had trouble posting pictures so today I am giving the beast her heart back, will catch up when the software issue cures, me/ih8mud? IDK
 
Well, it IS possible to remove and install SOME of the pushrods with the rockers in place. Just the intakes, IIRC.
 
Thanks handcannon! How did you like the three inches of rain last night, thinking I should be working on a boat instead. I've had trouble posting pictures so today I am giving the beast her heart back, will catch up when the software issue cures, me/ih8mud? IDK

I was too sound asleep to know how much rain we got over night. But, between the rain, warmer temps coming up over the weekend, and the extreme snowfall in the hills just above us we may need pontoons and downtown Portland may need to consider breaking out the sandbags again.

Monday and Tuesday I could not get Mud to come up on the internet, yet other internet sites would work. Maybe your problems with posting your pics were from somewhere else.
 
Timing gear oil slinger

here it is,
I deciced to leave it out. see those marks? Made by the cam gear. I don't like that, Throwing hard steel chips into the pan. Thinking that as long as the oil sprayer is working i can get by without that thing. Not real confident that this is a good idea, hoping it is not a stay tuned thing, opinions?
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Seems like if the runout is correct then that shouldn't happen.
 
Great thread !
Eventually I will have to rebuild my F as well.
You'll need a 90 degree elbow for one of the oil inlets or outlets after having that Downey Header installed. I had to hunt a metric one for myself after the header install. As well, I recommend on wrapping your header, I saw one guy's battery melt from the heat from his unwrapped header. A heat-riser from Man-a-fre makes cool morning starts easy. cheers.
 
Great thread !
Eventually I will have to rebuild my F as well.
You'll need a 90 degree elbow for one of the oil inlets or outlets after having that Downey Header installed. I had to hunt a metric one for myself after the header install. As well, I recommend on wrapping your header, I saw one guy's battery melt from the heat from his unwrapped header. A heat-riser from Man-a-fre makes cool morning starts easy. cheers.

Actually Mr. Kroll, from 74 onward, all oiling functions were internal, a good thing because of what you mentioned (no external oil gear to sweat) and more important, non bypass oil filtering. As evidenced by the incredible endurance of the ol f, nitpicking. I have been running the Man-a-fre manifold heater for a few years now. My thinking, it is more of a temp stabilizer. Sure would like to Science up that thing (anyone have a flow meter/ temp gage unit I could borrow?) but I bet it adds heat in the Winter (good thing) and removes heat in the Summer (ggod thing). MY 74 fj 55 has the battery on the right side opposite the manifolds. You will be seeing my Man-a-fre heaty thingy setup here real soon on this thread. Would sure like to see how others do it.
 
Motor mount bolts! grrrrrrrr

Our kitchen window looks out on the local High school flag grounds, there it was, the Oregon blue beaver under the Stars and Bars. Seems the Janitor has a problem getting those ol purtys' up passed half at times, sets the tone for me. Motor installed, I do not have any good advice as to how to get those motor mount bolts in except cursin like a sailor doesn't get it done, hours wasted. Catching the thread up on past work now.
 
Setting the valve gap

Much easier out of the engine bay. BS left me at #6 TDC, the place to be for cam install. So, some knowledge from the Mud site (thanks Big Jim, just say heck ya, clearly the best way). Break out your manuals. Find your firing order numbers and the other valve gap setting technique. Use the directions for the # 1 at TDC then #6 TDC gap setting technique to help ID your motor clocking. One set of 6 valves will be loose at # 1 TDC the other set at #6 TDC (not set so you can't tell then look at your pushrod levels, honest it all makes since once you get going). Before rotating your motor back off all the adjuster nuts. I don't think that it could happen but why take a chance at shoving a valve into a piston. So either one # 1 or # 6 at TDC, set the gap then rotate the motor 120 degrees to the next piston TDC in the firing order. proceed through your firng order setting the gaps one hole at a time. Use a flashlight to look through the plug holes and watch as your next piston rises to TDC just to make sure you don't lose track. Set all 6 holes this way then rotate through once more double checking your settings. Use a 1 and 3/4" socket and ratchet on that big ol front pulley nut, makes everything easier. After doing the following I ithink I will be looking for a set of go - no go feeler gages as suggested by Degnol (thanks Degnol). Use the (0.008", intake: 0.014", exhaust) feeler gages to set the timing, at first sliding them under the tappit and tighting the adjuster nut until the feeler gage pinches. feel the resistance as you pull the gage back and forth? If it is easy to pull the gage out then way too sloppy on the gap. If it is real hard to pull the gage out then you are compressing the valve spring. Thinking, dang, it is a feel thing, thanks, thanks alot, no help at all? Well no problem Amigo, After setting each valve gap go back with the next thousanths higher gage (0.009", intake: 0.015" exhaust), try to get it in the gap, if it slips in then you need to set to a slightly tighter feel. Bet after checking a few times you won't have to use the checker sizes. When starting a new gap setting make sure to have the size marks up so you can look down and say, yep right one every time. As you tighten the lock nuts make sure to resist adjuster bolt rotation by holding your screwdriver firmly, using it to resist rotation. The nut is a not too tight not too loose thing. I marked the intake valves by using a paint pin to place a mark on the head near each intake valve. Helped my easily confused mind keep track.
 
That pesky 2f type valve cover gasket

The aluminum valve cover is by far superior to the steel unit. for example, those concave areas, they did that to deflect the oil back down onto the rockers. more surface area means better heat dissipation, best of all, the rubber gasket is easily reused. But what a nuisance that little rubber puppy can be when setting the cover in place. I cheat by placing some ulta blue in the groove, glues the gasket into the groove so it stays in place when installing the cover.
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Timing gear cover install

More complicated than it appears. first off, those 6mm bolts, some long some short. Confusing sure but just pay attention, the long ones go in the holes that are threaded in the block. The short ones go in the holes that are threaded in the front plate. Oil slinger in place? Ultra Copper the cover gasket, both sides, throw the cover on, start all of your screws, don't cinch yet. with new pulley seal in place (if you forget to put some lithium grease on the seal then kiss it goodbye because it will toast mighty quick). Grab up your front pulley (good seal contact surface?) slather some anti sieze onto the ID of pulley (the big hole) and more anti sieze on the big nut threads. slide the pulley onto the crankshaft. If it slides on easily or is loose on the crankshaft end then you have a real problem. It should tap on with a brassy untill making contact with the keyway. Don't ignore this issue and don't go thinking keyway interference is going to help if the pulley to crankshaft fit is bad, remembered the key? Hold the big nut lock washer in place (tab in place) while you screw the big nut down. The nut should set the pulley all the way down without to much trouble. I am saving the torque and lock washer set for after motor install, easier to resist the 130 ft-lbs of torque needed to set that big old nut. the OD of the pulley should center the cover (the reason you left all of the cover bolts loose). All screws should be set with antisieze except those two big bad 10mm bolts on the bottom. I used loctite blue on those. They will leak oil through if you don't do something. Now tighten all your bolts. The two big ones are supposed to be to a torque setting I believe. Does not make any sense to me with that soft cork or cork like gasket. The required torque squishes the gasket right out of there. My thinking is that the gasket should be made out of a fiber material better suited to resist the preesure from the 10mm bolts.
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here it is,
I deciced to leave it out. see those marks? Made by the cam gear. I don't like that, Throwing hard steel chips into the pan. Thinking that as long as the oil sprayer is working i can get by without that thing. Not real confident that this is a good idea, hoping it is not a stay tuned thing, opinions?

So did you fit it? Hope so - it slings the oil away from the front seal - else the seal can get overloaded and leak...
 
The oil slinger revisited

So did you fit it? Hope so - it slings the oil away from the front seal - else the seal can get overloaded and leak...

Argument advanced, position considered............dang, diddly darn, back in there I go. And thank you Mr. Farmer, it is people like you with clear and obvious logical arguments that bring true value to this site, thanks again.
 
Fitting the fittings

I used teflon tape on all of the fittings to the water jacket. No need with the temp sensor to fitting junction, ruber seal there. The fitting second from right on the head is for my Man-a-fre manifold heater. left the last one on right in the shown position in order to gain access to the head bolt located next to it. This side of the block, industrial art!
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Can't get there from here

When I went with the 76 2f long block I had only a passing thought concerning any possible issues, they looked virtually identical. Sure enough, an issue. The front motor mount holes are 12mm on the 76 2f, 10mm on the 74f. Freehand drilled the front motor mount brackets to accomodate the larger hardware. The picture shows how I squared the drill. Showing it unchucked so I can get the picture. So with your bit chucked, hold a square in place so you can align the drill, check both the horizontal and vertical. Set the square down why you hold the drill steady and go to town. Turn slow with enough pressure to make pigtail chips. Powder chips, bad. Definitely use the second handle for this operation, save your wrists. I placed a chip on top of the drill to show the desired result. You know those drill bits you can get just about anywhere. especially the titanium nitrade (yellow) coated, well you get what you pay for. Try a high speed steel 110 to 130 degree tipped drill bit. Much better!
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