Bottoming taps versus lead taps. Lead type taps are great for thru holes, the extra lead helps prevent cross threading. If you are going to go into a bottomed hole then the bottoming tap on the left is the way to go. same as the drill bits, high speed steel, you get what you pay for.....bla, bla, bla.
See the pile of junk below the tap? All of that came out of that one hole. No way it would have torqued clean. The other 5 were much cleaner. No need to chase every hole, just run your bolt in to check, might not have to even do this. But with these 6 front motor mount holes it pays to pay attention, consider the risks.
Not the best picture of the rigging. The back chain wraps around the top two motor stand bolts. Lifted to remove the load from the stand, removed the stand from it's mounting bracket and then set it down on a cradle so I could install the clutch housing, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
Picture shows the clutch housing mounted. I did the following 6 months ago with the clutch housing unmounted. See those two holes? The bottom hole would not fully accept its' bolt. the bolt was fine and dandy, had to be the hole threads. Think that is important? You bet, imagine the damage an improperly mounted starter can cause. I chased the thread with a tap, first from one side then the other, torqued to gonna break that tap, tried tapping fluid, everything. finely gave up, used an extra washer to avoid the issue since it was near the opposite side of the hole form the starter. Conclusion, ran into this same problem Millwrighting, an old Millwright explained, if the steel melt doesn't achieve the melting temp needed to melt all of the s**** then high carbon steel s**** such as ball bearings don't melt and become included in the casting. says something about Toyotas castings, not the best. Still wondering why all the ranting about checking thread?
Did a little shade tree layout on the flywheel. Used a parts marker to mark the TDC line, 7 degrees BTDC dot and 35 degrees BTDC. The latter to have an idea as to what my ultimate advance is. Should have popped a pic of the other side, BS did some darned purty work there. Looks to be blanchard ground on the friction surface and the pressure plate surface, nice, no runout. Also balanced it. One bummer, I balked on a new starter ring, one bad tooth is all. Shoulda coulda.
Mounted the clutch housing, the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Did all of this on my cradle, not about to torque bolts swinging. See the clutch alignment tool, mega good idea, uber needed if you have a fondness for your pilot bearing and like to install to the tranny minus the blue streak. I kept the lift attached and only lifted to provide clearance for the parts. Ended up banging toward center the pressure plate in order to get it to sit clear the flange and sit flush on its' seat. Once flush I then tightened the bolts to torque. Placed a board on the groundwhen mounting the flywheel. Mounted low enough to minimize the drop risk.
Oh ya, somwhere in all of this I mounted the water pump and thermostat housing. Used ultra blue on the gaskets. 8 years ago I replaced the water pump and installed new galvanized hardware. Much to my chagrine, in that time the bolts had already lit up, rusted plenty. Cheap bolts? Thinking electrolysis. all of the bolts up front are now stainless steel. STAINLESS STEEL, are you crazy, what are you a thinkin? Me and my BSME ain't sweating that little bit one iota, of course, never where it matters, unless you spend the dough and go high grade ss, the ones you buy at the store, butter. Antisieze to suppress rust in there. Been disparging the old adjustable wrench, came in handy again here. Bent a couple of fins, had to bend them back out so they would clear the pulley. The old adjustable is starting to grow on me. A time and place for every tool, never on the motor bolts of course.
The old back woods press, pounded out the old and in the new. Easy, fit real nice. Cleaned up the clutch release fork, applying bullseye bicycle grease (designed to stay and resist water, survived the 6 month test real fine) on the pivot points. Assembled onto the clutch housing.
I exist therefore I take steps to continue doing so. Notice the boom is set at 1/2 ton. Had to go there because I was too lazy to yank my front bumper. See the boom angle. Your point of most tipping danger (horizonrtal). I used the bungy cords to suppress swing in the hanging mass during the move (swing will get you, thats the real danger). I moved the set up with the motor near the ground untill right in front of the engine bay. Rigging is all high strength chain, joined with repair links, cinching the link nuts using a screwdriver to jam and a wrench to tighten. Suggest you use the highest boom setting possible, this setup was scary, move deliberateley and slow, slow, slow, no place to make time here. Never ever stand on the back of your hoist, when you go to step off, disaster awaits. You can just see my home made cradle below the engine.
Up in the air in and into the engine bay. Time to sweat bullets, uber slow, used the pry bar near the front to adjust the hoist position. Placing its' tip on the ground at near 90 derees to the hoist arm, carefull not to lift the hoist, NEVER ever use a pry near the back of your hoist. Once into the bay then even slower, times your friend here, smash your components, strike the tranny shaft, oh man, disaster, trips to the junkyard will give you time to think about trips to the hospital or no thoughts in your grave. A friend to help would be real nice here. 1/8 of an inch at a time, move, lower, stop and check, over and over. Preachy? not sorry at all, ever done this before? then don't, get someone with experience to help. I've rigged for money before and I can tell you for sure, this, what with the boom out, the tight clearances, about as hard and dangerous as any rigging I've ever seen. One more hardware note, those lifting bolts in the motor, highest grade I could find, no cheap stuff there. Remember what Forrest Gumps mamma said? Stupid is is stupid does.
If you don't own a tranny hoist then as many stands, jacks and hoists as possible to make sure the trans, transfer don't fall. As you make the final motor position moves take a gander down there to eyeball the trans shaft. Once the shaft is in position, with the splines resting against the clutch, give the motor a slight rotation (with the trans in gear). You will feel the splines slip in and engage, giving a slight increase in resistance to motor rotation. Use a socket on the front pulley to rotate. Never ever try to rotate the trans shaft from under the rig. Only get under there once the motor mount brackets are directly above and as near as possible to the motor mounts. As soon as possible set the motor down on the mounts. With the trans shaft engaged to the clutch start your final join by paying close attention to all alignments relative to the clutch housing/ trans housing. Once plenty close, start all four of the mounting bolts. If you can't get the bolts to start easy then readjust the position. don't use the mounting bolts to complete the final join. Make absolutely sure that the clutch fork and throwout bearing are in the correct position. I used my adjustable pliers to close the gap. Sweat the pilot bearing to trans shaft joining. It should all go tegether easy cheesy. that last little bit is all about the pilot bearing. Problems here are just a plane nightmare. This is where carefull clutch alignment pays off.
I've found that prefitting the pilot bearing to the tranny input shaft (I mean, before you install it into the crankshaft) is a great idea. Poser pointed out that the worst time to find out that the fit isn't perfect is when you're loading the tranny onto the bellhousing. I've buffed the input shaft to make the pilot bearing slip on, and am glad I did (cause I know what happens if it's too tight!)
Way behind on the entries still. First try, chug chug fire! and then a rebel yell straight from hell, spent the next two or three seconds looking for a gun before I figured it. It was ME, guess that Williams blood is still in there. Consider myself a Yankee, kin on both sides of that one.
Thanks again to Andrewfarmer for setting me straight on the oil slinger issue. You saved me a pile of work because I just plain dislike oil leaks. Fortunately, I have a pulley puller in the box. Easy cheesy, remember to knock your lock washer out of the way before yarding that big nut out of there.
Having a gander at the cover gasket. The gasket split between the two big bolts when I tightened those two large bolts on the bottom of the gear cover. Am I missing something here? Why the big bolts with the wimpy gasket? Hmmmm...............maybe I was supposed to just barely torque those things. Could have sworn I read that those bolts get torqued up. Something here I just don't get. The residual assembly lube left in the pan leaked through already. I had tilted the motor enough to get lube up there. So, AF, two saves in one.
I used a fiberous gasket material, it will take the pressure from those big bolts. I used the cover to trace the ouside and the holes, the old gasket to trace the inside. Cut out using the scissors shown and a boxcutter. Punched the holes. Coated with ultra black.
Threw that oilslinger in there first, bolted up loose using stainless steel, blue loctite on the bigger two bolts, more antisieze on the threads, ID of the big bolt and white lithium on the seal, Assembled, the pulley first, then lock washer and finally the big old nut. Tightened the nut to 130ft-lbs using my handy dandy torque wrench. Tightened the little bolts and reefed those bigger bolts without concern for a wimpy gasket.
