The yellow isn't too bright or too dull. I like all the colors and this one is mostly unseen.
'74 Build: Dirtbike250x's Project: "Rotten Orange"
- Thread starter dirtbike250x
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- #42
While the updates have been slow to come the progress has continued on.
The main focus was completing the frames of each fender. Since they are done it was time to begin the process of cutting and fitting some skins to fill up those big holes.
First was the portion of floor where the elevation change is at for each floor panel....A picture might help explain that...
Then we cut out a rough floor pan panel out of 12 gauge steel....Yeah it is pretty heavy. However, it is low position weight so other than it being extra weight to drag around it should not negatively effect the performance off-road.
The panel is simply a panel cut to fit, but it will gain additions for bracing similar to the stock press dimples, but obviously not going to be able to press it.
It sure was nice to see a solid floor at least laid in position. Good motivation to begin cutting skins for the fenders.
The main focus was completing the frames of each fender. Since they are done it was time to begin the process of cutting and fitting some skins to fill up those big holes.
First was the portion of floor where the elevation change is at for each floor panel....A picture might help explain that...
Then we cut out a rough floor pan panel out of 12 gauge steel....Yeah it is pretty heavy. However, it is low position weight so other than it being extra weight to drag around it should not negatively effect the performance off-road.
The panel is simply a panel cut to fit, but it will gain additions for bracing similar to the stock press dimples, but obviously not going to be able to press it.
It sure was nice to see a solid floor at least laid in position. Good motivation to begin cutting skins for the fenders.
- Thread starter
- #43
A small sneak preview into some sheet metal for the fenders....
pressed dimples aren't everything ... a worthwhile trade-off for thicker material ... pretty sure JohnnyC went with thicker material in his 40 ... nice progress!!!
Great work!!
- Thread starter
- #46
So I never realized how much welding time it took to weld in two complete fenders, one tack weld at a time...
This has been my fist actual experience in sheet metal welding for body panels....Other than the small patches I have done already, that weren't worth a picture. About two half days worth of welding time.
Initial fitting of the fender skins....
Some shots of sticking the metal together.
Then all the sides were initially tacked in place.
This has been my fist actual experience in sheet metal welding for body panels....Other than the small patches I have done already, that weren't worth a picture. About two half days worth of welding time.
Initial fitting of the fender skins....
Some shots of sticking the metal together.
Then all the sides were initially tacked in place.
- Thread starter
- #47
Then after many tacks lead to solid welds....
Now time to grind the welds down smooth and move onto the floor.
Sneak Peak of the tail gate coming soon....
Now time to grind the welds down smooth and move onto the floor.
Sneak Peak of the tail gate coming soon....
nice. I like the extra heavy floor and fenders. I wish mine were a little thinner as the PO re-did the entire rear tub in mine with 1/4 diamond plate steel. Toss a grenade under it and the truck will just hop up a bit
Beautiful job!!
- Thread starter
- #50
Thank You! Getting closer and closer to that final truck. I'm glad you are keeping up with the build.
You're bringing an old mountain truck back to life!
- Thread starter
- #52
So onto the next step. The tail gate.
We weren't really sure what to do about the hinge and latch system for a custom tailgate going into this portion of the project. Store bought hinges would simply look like a gate hinge bolted to the back of the truck and any factory or Land Cruiser specific hinge would be to much money for this project. So the only other option was to once again...build our own. This part really became the puzzle to figure out for my dad who was determined to design a clean hinge. While as of now the hinge issue is resolved, the latch system is still unknown, however, slightly leaning towards a similar latch as used on the FJ45 pickup tailgate.
So as the ideas flowed and the prototypes were produced one seemed to be the best match as it was simple, allowed for quick tailgate removal as needed, and remained clean for the back of the truck.
The first test of the tailgate hinge tacked on the truck.
Once we were satisfied that it would in fact pivot the tail gate we went with a three hinge setup.
And then the outer frame of the tail gate was mocked into place with the hinge pins (bolts), and fitment was tested.
We weren't really sure what to do about the hinge and latch system for a custom tailgate going into this portion of the project. Store bought hinges would simply look like a gate hinge bolted to the back of the truck and any factory or Land Cruiser specific hinge would be to much money for this project. So the only other option was to once again...build our own. This part really became the puzzle to figure out for my dad who was determined to design a clean hinge. While as of now the hinge issue is resolved, the latch system is still unknown, however, slightly leaning towards a similar latch as used on the FJ45 pickup tailgate.
So as the ideas flowed and the prototypes were produced one seemed to be the best match as it was simple, allowed for quick tailgate removal as needed, and remained clean for the back of the truck.
The first test of the tailgate hinge tacked on the truck.
Once we were satisfied that it would in fact pivot the tail gate we went with a three hinge setup.
And then the outer frame of the tail gate was mocked into place with the hinge pins (bolts), and fitment was tested.
- Thread starter
- #53
And with the outer frame of the tailgate fit and a hinge system we were happy with. Finishing up the framing of the trail gate was next.
Since we do prefer the factory looking rear doors, we made our design inspired in the original image, but simpler and strong.
Used a 4ft level to keep the gate as straight as possible during welding of inner structure for support and an anchor spot for chains for hanging the gate.
And with the structure in we welded in a U as an anchor for the chains. And the first impression of the lowered tailgate can be enjoyed!
Next, will be fitting the skin for the tailgate and final fitting to finally fill in that large hole between the fenders....Oh and while no specific pictures, you can see the floor support was fit and welded in (the brown cross bar), lighten and drainage holes were added with a hole saw. Savings of 3lbs!
Since we do prefer the factory looking rear doors, we made our design inspired in the original image, but simpler and strong.
Used a 4ft level to keep the gate as straight as possible during welding of inner structure for support and an anchor spot for chains for hanging the gate.
And with the structure in we welded in a U as an anchor for the chains. And the first impression of the lowered tailgate can be enjoyed!
Next, will be fitting the skin for the tailgate and final fitting to finally fill in that large hole between the fenders....Oh and while no specific pictures, you can see the floor support was fit and welded in (the brown cross bar), lighten and drainage holes were added with a hole saw. Savings of 3lbs!
- Thread starter
- #54
And here is a closer shot of how we have the chain set up (for now)
Next was the best part, making the tail gate and the rear floor look like something with some added sheet metal....
First was coating all bare surfaces that would no long be accessible with the sheet metal.
Paint used was a Rustoleum Galvanizer. While POR 15 might have been a slightly strong coating. Spray paint much faster, and over spray is much easier to clean off for welding purposes.
The final picture of the truck floor-less
Next was the best part, making the tail gate and the rear floor look like something with some added sheet metal....
First was coating all bare surfaces that would no long be accessible with the sheet metal.
Paint used was a Rustoleum Galvanizer. While POR 15 might have been a slightly strong coating. Spray paint much faster, and over spray is much easier to clean off for welding purposes.
The final picture of the truck floor-less
- Thread starter
- #55
And Taadaa
One large solid floor.
The Rotten Orange is starting to seem much fresher...
And then we went one step further and added the new front piece...
Attaching that part of the floor back into the original floor took some massaging of the metal to get a brand new straight edge to fit with many years of body twisting through rotten floor support. Fortunately the use of a floor jack and a piece of wood to press out the low spots and a few tack welds to hold it all in place seemed to do the job.
And the extra special picture....
A tailgate, on the cheap.
It is funny to think, the initial plan here was to cut the original solid welded rear section out to create a tailgate and change the color of the truck, which eventually turned to all of this, a full resto. Well there you have it no more solid back to the truck, a real (well custom) drop down tailgate.
One large solid floor.
The Rotten Orange is starting to seem much fresher...
And then we went one step further and added the new front piece...
Attaching that part of the floor back into the original floor took some massaging of the metal to get a brand new straight edge to fit with many years of body twisting through rotten floor support. Fortunately the use of a floor jack and a piece of wood to press out the low spots and a few tack welds to hold it all in place seemed to do the job.
And the extra special picture....
A tailgate, on the cheap.
It is funny to think, the initial plan here was to cut the original solid welded rear section out to create a tailgate and change the color of the truck, which eventually turned to all of this, a full resto. Well there you have it no more solid back to the truck, a real (well custom) drop down tailgate.
- Thread starter
- #56
And one more shot of it open
There is a few more steps for the gate such as the latching mechanism we will be making and creating a edge inside the truck for a weather stripping seal.
The floor and tailgate will get some flat metal to add a bit of something to the plain flat sheet metal. Again it will be influenced by the original pressed floor, but will be our own.
There is a few more steps for the gate such as the latching mechanism we will be making and creating a edge inside the truck for a weather stripping seal.
The floor and tailgate will get some flat metal to add a bit of something to the plain flat sheet metal. Again it will be influenced by the original pressed floor, but will be our own.
- Thread starter
- #57
Since the truck is now pretty solid and finish fabrication is now needed for the tailgate and other body work. We wanted to change it up and bit and finish up the last bit of rust repair needed for the under body so it can be prepped and painted. After that drop the tub back on the frame for the first time (and hopefully only time)
Well enough planning, time for pictures.
First step was to re-position the body to get underneath....So back onto its side we go!
Bit of a close up of the new floor area. Soon it will get some welding treatment under there.
We also wanted to begin engine work soon as well as get the frame plumbed with new brake and fuel lines prior to installing the body. So with a new organization plan, we got all three into the garage together.
While moving stuff around we placed the fiberglass hard top outside to take a better look at it. We knew from previous inspection that the rain gutter had been filled in for some reason and painted over
We took some time to scrap some of it away what seemed to be caulk?
Fortunately the two experiment spots looked fairly rust free and minor damage. That bad new is we still do not know as to why it was filled in all the way around. Hoping against a leaky top...
Well enough planning, time for pictures.
First step was to re-position the body to get underneath....So back onto its side we go!
Bit of a close up of the new floor area. Soon it will get some welding treatment under there.
We also wanted to begin engine work soon as well as get the frame plumbed with new brake and fuel lines prior to installing the body. So with a new organization plan, we got all three into the garage together.
While moving stuff around we placed the fiberglass hard top outside to take a better look at it. We knew from previous inspection that the rain gutter had been filled in for some reason and painted over
We took some time to scrap some of it away what seemed to be caulk?
Fortunately the two experiment spots looked fairly rust free and minor damage. That bad new is we still do not know as to why it was filled in all the way around. Hoping against a leaky top...
Looking awesome! I also have a CRF250X, but plan on restoring a '73 Hodaka Dirt Squirt to pu on a reciever carrier on back.......love the work, keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #59
Good catch with the CRF250X! Thanks for the kind words! Trying to keep the progress going with the project.
- Thread starter
- #60
Unfortunately I have been absent from making updates to my build thread. However, the progress has not slowed and has been going great.
First with our new garage layout opened the opportunity to start work on the engine. Of course the first step to dig into an engine is to thoroughly clean it before cracking it open.
With a initial scrub with some simple green (waabam) it started to show us its true appearance.
More on the engine soon. It was placed back in its place to begin later on.
Next I wanted to finish up the underside of the truck fabrication to finally get some protection under there and uniformity to once and for all stop the rust for this truck.
To increase our corrosion resistance we capped the ends of the main body mount structure we built
First with our new garage layout opened the opportunity to start work on the engine. Of course the first step to dig into an engine is to thoroughly clean it before cracking it open.
With a initial scrub with some simple green (waabam) it started to show us its true appearance.
More on the engine soon. It was placed back in its place to begin later on.
Next I wanted to finish up the underside of the truck fabrication to finally get some protection under there and uniformity to once and for all stop the rust for this truck.
To increase our corrosion resistance we capped the ends of the main body mount structure we built