73 plow

[MaineIAC]

i'm setting up a 73 to plow. The plow setup i bought has a ladder that moves the push plates back behind the TC by the crossmember, the problem is there isn't enought clearance under the gas tank to fit the bolts that sandwich the push plates to the frame. I'm going to have a new ladder made and was thinking it would be easier if i moved the push plates up in front of the gas tank. does any one see any problems with this?
also how far forward of the axle do i want the A frame pivot to be so that i can get the plow high enough off the ground?

 

[CruiserStuff]

Post up some picks...I run a Meyer plow on a '76 so I'm sure it would be similar. Let's see what you have....

 

[MaineIAC]

pictures

 

[american psycho]

on the 70's here in Switzerland they mount the ladder to the front bumper and the tranny cross-member holes. i cannot comment on any handling, but it's how it's done here and the Swiss don't do things for no reason and without thinking about it for a long time first.

 

[CruiserStuff]

Was the plow set up that you bought off of an FJ40? If you were to mount it where you have it positioned now (in pic #2) you would not have enough of a pivot for the plow a-frame to clear the front bumper without hitting when the plow was raised....

Check out this thread to see what I'm running (and Bennett): https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...kets-40-a.html?highlight=snowplow+brackets+40

 

[dgangle]

Having plowed with FJ40's throughout the 80's and early 90's, there are many ways, methods, designs and configurations to the main support. What you have looks seriously shadetree. The position shown in your photo is going to be very, very hard to hook up the blade in that location, not to mention the boat-anchor effect it is going to have on all aspects relating to ground clearance. That being said, any method will reduce ground clearance to some degree. That far back throws up a red flag to me in that you should be certain when angled, the moldboard may hit your bumper or tires. The height of the mounting points should be positioned so the "A" frame of the plow will be horizontal when the plow is in the lowered position. Otherwise when angled in the down position, the cutting edge may not be in full contact with the ground.

 

[MaineIAC]

i was told it came off a 40 but some things don't line up. i'm gonna get a new ladder made. i agree that the plow seems like it would be too far back, but there is a cut out in the crossmember that fits perfect with the diff. bennett's plow looks like it is too far forward, i would like to mount it as far back as i can without inhibiting the upward motion. does any one have a ladder like this, if so where does it connect to the frame?

 

[CruiserStuff]

Bennett's and my set-up are almost identical and he says that his is an original Meyer mount. You gotta figure that Meyer probably had SOME idea of what they were doing.

I totally agree with dgangle - if you mount the plow the way you show in the pics, when you angle the blade your tires will trip over it (= disaster). If you lift the blade, you'll hit the bumper (= disaster). For hoots, hook up the plow to your mount and try lifting it....I'll bet a beer it hits the bumper before full lift is achieved....

The part that has the cut out for the diff....is that supposed to mount to the u-bolts? How does that part look like it's supposed to mount up?

 

[CruiserStuff]

Looking at it further, maybe the guy who fabbed your front bracket initially thought he'd mount it under the diff and then changed his mind.....if you brought your whole ladder assembly forward (more to the location of mine and Bennett's) the rear holes look like they would line-up more closely with the hole where we mount ours to the frame....

Why is there a cut out in the bottom of that front mount (where you have your jack positioned)?

 

[MaineIAC]

i don't think that cut out is for anything just saves three inches of angle

 

[Bennett]

I think the ladder Ideas has some merit but Meyer sold a ton of these small I-beam style subframes... they seem to hold up well.
I'd like to see what you have planned for the pump mount and tower/light bar that hold's the whole thing up.
In my opinion your moldboard A-frame and right/left cylinders should be pretty horizontal with the ground. Use that as a starting point and build from there. My rear subframe mounts just back of rear of teh front spring mount. ( pic)
do a search.. I think i posted some other subframe pics on mud

 

[dgangle]

Where is the front mount point? Is it really attaching to the suspension?

 

[MaineIAC]

there doesn't appear to be a front mount location. since i'm going to have a new ladder made i was planning on tieing into the springs, i have seen a picture where the ladder has a loose fitting box around the leaf.

 

[Bennett]

there doesn't appear to be a front mount location. since i'm going to have a new ladder made i was planning on tieing into the springs, i have seen a picture where the ladder has a loose fitting box around the leaf.

Ready-fire-Aim

 

[CruiserStuff]

Do NOT tie the front mount to the springs (= disaster). Figure that if a tire drops into a pothole, it would pull the whole side of the blade down (= disaster). The mount needs to tie to the frame so that the truck compensates for the terrain.

I'd love to see the pic you're describing with a "loose fitting box around the leaf." Unless I'm picturing something totally different, this would jack up your suspension in no time. Imagine (I don't have to because I've done it) "discovering" a tree stump under the snow with your snow plow. If the plow is mounted to your springs, what is going to take the brunt of that force? Your springs....you'll snap bolts like licorice sticks. I especially am leery of the "loose-fitting" part - slack in any of the components (= disaster)!

I've been plowing for over 10 years and have seen and done a lot through trial and error. Just hoping to help you avoid some of the mistakes I've made...

 

[CruiserStuff]

well said Bennett!

 

[MaineIAC]

thank you, good point.
i guess i need some sort of shackle down from the frame to hold my ladder up.

 

[CruiserStuff]

MaineIAC - Post up some pics of the front hoop and your plow pump so we can see how it is mounted to the front frame horns - the front mounting points on my rig are attached to the base of the front hoop, drop straight down and bolt to the front portion of the channel (where the plow a-frame) attaches. You can see this in a couple of Bennett's pics above....

 

[BJEC69]

It looks like you have a Fisher set up. Fisherplows.com has a great web site, and may be helpful. There was a real nice Fisher set up in the classified section for sale, and had some pictures to go with it they may help. Good luck! Brendon

 

[Jetboy]

This is how my dad's is set up. It works well. He uses it in combination with an hd3/4 chevy for commercial plowing. It gets used enough to wear out at least one wear bar per winter, so it takes a beating. It's essentially built with bracing off the front bumper and down off the front cross member to create a triangle. That's where the A-frame mounts to. There is also a single tube connected back to another cross bracket that was added near the transfer case. All in all it's a really solid mount. It probably doesn't need the rear bar. If you look how they mount them on the newer trucks it's essentially the two bolts for the tow hooks and a connection at the IFS brackets and that's all.

Anyway here's a couple pics to help explain.

The first is looking back at the front bumper. You can see how it's tied to the frame rails with a piece of thicker angle. The second pic is a side view of how it's braced to the front cross member There's a piece of angle added in front and tied both to the frame rails and the front cross member (notice there is plenty of room for sag steering if you notch it). I'm not sure the stock cross member would be up to the task alone. Especially once cut out for a sag box. Third is a view of how the rear tube brace sits. I don't have a pic of the furthest rear mount.

Oh, and I'd mount that thing as far back as you can possibly fit it. The further back the less the leverage the weight has out there to mess with your handling. They already have most of the weight up front. Also it kinda defeats the advantage of a short wheel base to have a plow hung 4' off the front.