'72 Factory Soft Top Project. "Power Wheels"

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Scott,
I can´t believe that you have two and I can´t even get my one through Salvadoran DMV. Looking great. Subscribed.
 
Went in to the garage Saturday to stare at the Cruiser a bit, and decide what to work on next. Came to the conclusion that the first thing that needed to be done was to do some straitening-up and sweeping. Work sure goes a lot better when you're not tripping over tools, and parts and junk. Found this little girl behind some boards that were propped against the wall, behind the Cruiser. I'm not afraid of spiders. But I must have brushed my hand against her when I grabbed the boards. A little too close for comfort. No real web structure there. Just her and her egg.

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This is what I decided on, to brace the door openings. I had a hard time deciding where to attach at the cowl side. So, I just followed the angle of the of the door opening to the center brace. Seems to me that it will still do the trick at this angle. It feels strong. I like that it gives a little easier access to get at the floors and center tub than a brace straight across the opening would. Thoughts?

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This is what I decided on, to brace the door openings. I had a hard time deciding where to attach at the cowl side. So, I just followed the angle of the of the door opening to the center brace. Seems to me that it will still do the trick at this angle. It feels strong. I like that it gives a little easier access to get at the floors and center tub than a brace straight across the opening would. Thoughts?

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Scott,
I'm gonna exercise one of my nosy, subscriber to the thread, chits and ask a question here. I'm not sure, maybe I missed it, what the thinking is behind the bracing. Is this temporary so that the tub has some better support while you are grinding away or is the plan to have this bracing to be a permanent feature in which case help me understand why? :confused: If a rig is going to be on the street mostly then wouldn't the hard top and sides do the bracing job adequately. If the rig is more split duty or mostly off road again don't you get the bracing that you need from the hard top and sides. Last if you are going to run mostly topless, most folks run a rollcage,factory, after market or homebrew for safety sake. Wouldn't you get the same or perhaps better bracing benefits from a cage? I'm always interested in hearing the thinking of folks with new ideas or who are trying out of the box solutions.:popcorn: :cheers:
John
 
Just temporary support to keep the tub/door openings from getting "tweaked," or twisted out of shape, when cutting into the main support areas of the tub. If you don't, you run the risk of doors not fitting properly, or other things being out of alignment when it goes back together.
 
When I'm finished with the body work, I'll cut the brace-welds and grind them down clean. Hopefully everything will still be as "true" and square as when it left the factory. I haven't even broken the body mounts loose yet, waiting to get the tub braced.
 
Just temporary support to keep the tub/door openings from getting "tweaked," or twisted out of shape, when cutting into the main support areas of the tub. If you don't, you run the risk of doors not fitting properly, or other things being out of alignment when it goes back together.

X2...I didn't brace mine properly before I started cutting and grinding away and regret it :frown:
 
Just temporary support to keep the tub/door openings from getting "tweaked," or twisted out of shape, when cutting into the main support areas of the tub. If you don't, you run the risk of doors not fitting properly, or other things being out of alignment when it goes back together.

Thank you, everyday I learn something new.:idea: Of course it makes perfect sense.:cheers:
 
Need some advice from body work gurus :)

I sent my wife on a wild goose chase to buy some weld through primer yesterday. Auto parts stores, Tractor supply co., welding supply store etc. I wanted to treat that piece of wheel well flange before replacing the tub skin. No one had even heard of it, let alone had it in stock. :meh: I know for a fact I've seen it at one of the parts store chains in the past. So, I do a Google search figuring I'll order some...Glad in a way, because I've read that the more expensive primers make a big difference. So, I would spend the money to get high quality. Well, I first come across some autobody discussion threads and start reading.....Now I'm confused. :confused: This one in particular> http://http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-6436.html

Some say that the weld through primers have such poor adhesion that it's not really going to protect the surrounding metal much anyway. That you're better off using an epoxy, or self-etching primer, and then clean only the immediate area to be welded. Or,.. in the case of Auto manufacturers repair recommendations, to plug or spot weld through the factory epoxy primer. .And not to use a weld through primer....period. (Toyota specifically)

I've got tons of self etching primer. Also a couple cans of oil based primer. Would I be safe treating with a rust converter, using a self etching primer, cleaning only the area to be welded, and going ahead? To be clear, I'm only talking about in between where body panels meet, and are just spot welded. Like at the wheel well pictured above.

If I haven't mentioned before, this is my first attempt at rust repair-body work. And, my first time welding sheet metal. (captain obvious? :hillbilly:) This is my "learning" cruiser. At the same time, I'm shooting for as perfect as I'm capable of. I'd rather wait, and do it right, than rush to put this back together. If I'm not happy with it, I'll do it over. Any advice or constructive criticism is definitely welcome in this thread.
 
I always use whatever primer I have, then just wire wheel it off around where I am going to weld, then when I am done I re primer just to prevent rust. You are doing a good job that is going to be sweet.
 
On the hinge bolts, why not weld on the inside of the nut? That would prevent it from trying to "grab" the windshield frame.
 
On the hinge bolts, why not weld on the inside of the nut? That would prevent it from trying to "grab" the windshield frame.

The only nuts I had were just a little too deep to make good contact from inside. I tried. But yeah, It would have saved some trouble using a smaller nut and welding the center. Wasn't worth the time to drive to Lowes from here.
 
I always use whatever primer I have, then just wire wheel it off around where I am going to weld, then when I am done I re primer just to prevent rust. You are doing a good job that is going to be sweet.

Thanks man!
 

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