Build 71 Forty build - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[wngrog]

If you are planning on going from a 1F/3 speed to 2F/4 speed keep in mind you need to get ALL of the clutch parts and bellhousing from a 2F truck.

I’m cleaning up the Bellhousing and cover. Both got soaked in Zepp Purple till all the grease and most of the paint was gone.

Pressure wash. Paint.

 

[wngrog]

In tank fuel pump install. Denso pump and kit via @FJ60Cam at Mosley Motors.

First. Make sure all the gas residue is gone. I turned it upside down with the holes open and ran the shop vac on reverse into it about an hour.

Use a 2 1/4” hole saw. These early tanks have a sweet spot. I missed it by about 1/16th and had to run a Dremel inside the tank and clearance the vertical baffle a bit

Once you get the hole drilled then mark your holes for the in-tank ring.

Once you get that all lined up you tack the ring to the tank. Tiny tack welds. I’m sure an adhesive would work. Basically you have to secure it to the roof of the tank so the pump unit can screw into it

Assemble the pump with the pre filter sock where it lays just a hair up from the tank bottom

Once it’s all in place use a little permatex fuel gasket sealer and tighten the provided screws 1/2# torque

 

[wngrog]

Why in tank?

To me it’s vehicle specific. I generally don’t do them because they are labor intensive and expensive.

That said, on the early tanks like this that don’t have a provision for a return and any evaporator vents, the in-tank setup from Mosley is clutch.

You get a return and just as important, you get a good tank vent. Since we won’t have a charcoal canister to help vent the tank the built in vent will help keep pressure in the tank correct. I will take that vent and T it into the small hose in the filler neck so fumes will vent out the gas cap.

While I was in this far the truck got a new sending unit, gasket and OEM screws.

 

[wngrog]

Every M8 in this truck that was pulled for anything was cheap zinc that has rusted

I’ll replace them as I go

 

[Skreddy]

Curiosity: any reason you chose the pump without the tray? When I called Tank Inc, they were adamant I needed the tray, but then why offer one without?…. Without would’ve been a quicker install on mine for sure.

 

[wngrog]

Curiosity: any reason you chose the pump without the tray? When I called Tank Inc, they were adamant I needed the tray, but then why offer one without?…. Without would’ve been a quicker install on mine for sure.

The first in tank pump I installed had a tray. Absolute nightmare. I would never install another one.

Mosley stepped up and put this simple kit together and even though it’s more complicated than an in-line it’s way easier than that stupid tray was

 

[Skreddy]

I poked around his site when I did mine but I guess not enough because I never saw those in tank pumps. Would’ve bought/supported him if I saw that.

The placement of my tray pump was the hardest part. I’d definitely do tray less in the future, especially for my intended use.

Ok, good work, keep it up, enough interjections from me.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

I love the small details like that !
they may be small but they make a difference.

 

[locklaw]

Why in tank?

To me it’s vehicle specific. I generally don’t do them because they are labor intensive and expensive.

That said, on the early tanks like this that don’t have a provision for a return and any evaporator vents, the in-tank setup from Mosley is clutch.

You get a return and just as important, you get a good tank vent. Since we won’t have a charcoal canister to help vent the tank the built in vent will help keep pressure in the tank correct. I will take that vent and T it into the small hose in the filler neck so fumes will vent out the gas cap.

While I was in this far the truck got a new sending unit, gasket and OEM screws.

View attachment 2963259

Firstly, I am not knocking the work and product, both are great but I am curious why this time consuming, seemingly complicated (where even a pro like you gets it fractionally wrong) and possibly dangerous (welding a fuel tank) option was chosen by Mosley over a simple no weld bung option to plumb a return and vent lines?

No weld bungs have held up for decades in the overlanding industry when extra fuel tanks are fitted and with both being low/no pressure systems, this seems to be a no brainer and much simpler solution.

 

[wngrog]

One big thing I like about the in-tank though is the reliability of having your pump submersed in fuel. That’s usually the top reason.

Second, as you mentioned is the built in return. I don’t have and experience with the no-weld bungs but I’d certainly be interested in checking them out. I’m assuming one could also be used as a vent line as well.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’m always open to easier solutions to these things.

 

[locklaw]

One big thing I like about the in-tank though is the reliability of having your pump submersed in fuel. That’s usually the top reason.

Second, as you mentioned is the built in return. I don’t have and experience with the no-weld bungs but I’d certainly be interested in checking them out. I’m assuming one could also be used as a vent line as well.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’m always open to easier solutions to these things.

I agree on the durability aspect of an in-tank versus external tank, to my mind this would be a driver to go with an in-tank however I would rather drill a few small holes and insert rivnuts in the tank to mount the pump rather than welding. As you can see I really don't like welding used tanks if it can be avoided.

The no weld jobbies can be had in fancy or even made yourself with an M8/10 bolt drilled through the centre, two fuel safe washers with a piece of Mig wire fed through the hole to the filler/sending unit hole to guide and pull the fitting into the hole. Indian Head/Loctite shellac on the outer washer keeps things from leaking, plus some thread tape over the bolt threads.

We use these on plastic and steel OEM tanks with great success. Regular fuel hose can then be used instead of AN type fittings which are not found around the corner when travelling.

 

[locklaw]

An El cheapo inline fuel filter works wonders on the breather line to keep odours and dirt at bay

 

[wngrog]

There is no room with the size of this hole and the pump to add an M6 rivnut. Of course a nice small aircraft rivnut would be cool. I have a guy here that works on airplanes and he punches them in to some tight spots.

A for welding in the tank.

By the time you clean the tank of all the drill mess and whatever mess was in there before there is no gas. I bet I had it vacuumed and blown out 20 times.

This is my go-to vent filter. The little diagram is key though. Most people loop their vent hoses down and away but if fuel gets in that line at a low point then it’s never going to vent.

This is why I keep the charcoal setup IF the tank has the proper vents.

 

[wngrog]

Have a few hours to burn today before I head out of town. 4Plus swingout shipped Friday as well as the flip kit so I’ll have two big items done by the end of next week.

In preparation I decided to go ahead and pull the old Con Ferr bumper off.

Of course, the steel diamond plate was there for a reason.

Jesus. Who bolts a piece of steel on a non-prepped frame? What a hack.

I got the frame cleaned up and did some metal repair from the back. Luckily the 4Plus carrier is so stout. It will shore up the cracked main frame.

I broke out the POR15 for this and brushed on a heavy coat to soak in good to give me a nice base to build this back correctly.

Also working on a solution for the body where the stock carrier came off. Normally if the truck is a patina truck or correctly painted I just stick stainless bolts back in the old holes and roll on. This one will need more. Stay tuned.

 

[Skreddy]

There is no room with the size of this hole and the pump to add an M6 rivnut. Of course a nice small aircraft rivnut would be cool. I have a guy here that works on airplanes and he punches them in to some tight spots.

A for welding in the tank.

By the time you clean the tank of all the drill mess and whatever mess was in there before there is no gas. I bet I had it vacuumed and blown out 20 times.

This is my go-to vent filter. The little diagram is key though. Most people loop their vent hoses down and away but if fuel gets in that line at a low point then it’s never going to vent.

This is why I keep the charcoal setup IF the tank has the proper vents.

View attachment 2963989

Where do you locate that vent filter? I bought the same one and couldn’t find a spot I liked so ended up repurposing an axle vent (I had a rollover valve in the tank/pump).

 

[wngrog]

Where do you locate that vent filter? I bought the same one and couldn’t find a spot I liked so ended up repurposing an axle vent (I had a rollover valve in the tank/pump).

You can’t really use this or a fuel filter on a 40 tank if you don’t mount it in the tub because the fuel line will have to be lower than the tank and it could fill up with gas and that’s no good.

I’ve used them in other applications where the above poster recommended a fuel filter. Once in a 40 that had a gas tank locking cover.

The best place to vent these early tanks is through the cap. The in tank pump vent will basically just be an extra. No real need for it I guess since the fill and bypass are both venting via the gas cap too.

 

[wngrog]

Years ago and very few miles ago, a local shop put 4 wheel discs on this truck. JTO kit it seems. First truck I’ve had through the shop that I don’t have to do a knuckle job on. This makes me very happy.

That said I wanted to make sure the toe was correct. It has new TREs so they must have done them with the brake job. Toe was on the money.

These are the early huge Warn hubs. Pretty cool. They cleaned up nicely and function as advertised

Need to paint but I ran out. Next up…

 

[wngrog]

Sell the advantages, not the price….

 

[wngrog]

I got a text first thing from the owner this morning. It was funny.

I was gone most of the day but my wife is out of town so I stayed with it until 8 pm.

I unpacked the Dobinsons pallet and took inventory

I don’t have the Flip Kits. They arrive Wednesday if all goes well. I decided to do the springs and add the ubolts Wednesday
I’m tired of looking at these upside down backwards inversion shackles. I swear to God, I hope the “painter” is doing Jeeps now

So, these Rough Country kits are total s***. Why? Well, they clearly don’t care is why.

Shocks. Junk.

Bushings. Junk. This truck has probably 1000 miles on it max and all the in-spring bushings were frozen to the pins.

Spring packs. Junk. Huge thick springs with a ton of arch and few leafs.

Versus Dobinsons. No comparison.

 

[wngrog]

One little spin for different this truck will have is the 285/75-16 Yokohamas versus the 255/85-16s I usually run. Joseph liked the stance of the truck with the wider tires he had before. These won’t be quite as wide as those square Mud kings but they will fill out the wells nicely.

Side by side

We went full-pull on the Dobinsons kit with these fantastic IMS shocks. I am wildly impressed with them on every vehicle I’ve used them on. Especially a 40.