Build 71 Forty build - Tilda Bogue Service Station

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I’m really liking the tire width on those skinny wheels. More meat and they don’t stick out past the fenders. I wonder how they tuck 🤔
 
I’m really liking the tire width on those skinny wheels. More meat and they don’t stick out past the fenders. I wonder how they tuck 🤔
They should tuck just fine. The ones below did and it’s all wider.


Same tires on a 7.5” wheel that I had to add 1” spacers to. I went this route to get the rear to fill up that fender flare nonsense.

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Good call on that. The front bumper on powda is a JT outfitters?
 
Nolan, I was going to run the 235/85/16… too skinny? Gosh this rig reminds me of the goblin, I miss that green!!
I ran that size on my 40 with no lift. They were about 31” tall in the Yokohama. It’s a great size for no lift. If lifted do the 255/85

I have that size in BFG ATKO on my M416 trailer and they are about 29” tall

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Spent a little time messing with a few things today. Mostly messed with the Seminole 45

The last part of project Con-Ferr / diamond plate removal was these beautiful OEM bits from @cruiseroutfit

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Afternoon stuff…swapping the 40 pulley to the 62 internal regulator style alternator.
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Added the defrost hoses I got from Cruiser Corps
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Re Taped the main harness after I gave it a heavy scrub the other day. I did not do the side wires yet because lots of that will be eliminated with the one wire alternator and DUI ignition

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Got back and installed the later style jump seats. I just got them back from powder and am waiting for the new covers to come in.

Since this truck did not have the correct holes in the tub I put M8 rivnuts up high and will use a bolt and nut for the bottom legs.

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Got back and installed the later style jump seats. I just got them back from powder and am waiting for the new covers to come in.
Since this truck did not have the correct holes in the tub I put M8 rivnuts up high and will use a bolt and nut for the bottom legs.

Any additional bracing when the roll bar was added? Or just bolted to the wheel wheels?
 
Aight. This fing bed liner. Man. I had to find the perfect tool to get the 11mm 🙄 bolt heads off.
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Then I realized the harness was too short to connect the dimmer switch and had to make a pigtail. The switch is new aftermarket and the plastic is a little loose so I put a big zip on It.
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I got all the things I’m not going to use on the harness taped up and out of the way

@Coolerman Fusable link added back into the harness. I keep forgetting to get a battery so tomorrow I’m going to grab one so I can test all this fancy wiring I’ve been doing.

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One thing about a 12/71 FJ40 is that the wiring harness is about 1/2 early colors and about 1/2 later 72/73 harness.

Bridge year cruisers will make you bang your head.
 
Any additional bracing when the roll bar was added? Or just bolted to the wheel wheels?

The same guy that added that is the same guy that has butchered everything else he’s touched so you can imagine what the answer to that question is.
 
Not sure when the motor will be done but I am trying to get as much done as I can before hand.

Most of it is wiring. Lots and lots lot wiring with the bad ass Dakota Digital with GPS

With the GPS you need two hots, switched 12 and ground so I made all that happen first

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Man, I think I’ve got this entire thing wired. The first Dakota took me 2 days. Same with the first Snipers. Now I can do both in a long day. I spent a lot of time looming and heat tubing and tucking.

I just have a battery laid on the frame with the harness hot hooked up and I’ve got some crazy deal going which I’m assuming is due to no good grounds but when I turn in the key my switched 12v comes on like normal.

The weird thing now is if I turn the light switch on it activates the switched 12v too with or without the key.

Grounds I’m sure. Never tried to wire a truck without the battery and grounds in place.

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