71 FJ40 A work in progress...

[merlinridesagain]

looks exactly like my rig...exept your tub looks really good!
Mine didn't come with a rollbar either. Its a 73...was this common cjgoode? what would have to be done if one wanted to attach a rollbar? sorry for the hyjack but maybe it will help us both out.

It looks like 9/73 was when they went with a factory rollbar. I've done a bit of searching here and it looks like you can fab or buy a kit to install the seats closer to the center of the tub so the rollbar fits behind. This thread was pretty goo:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ions-72-fj40-long-rear-stock-bench-seats.html

Good luck.

 

[40zen]

If it's just this then I've heard swapping that steel valve cover will address that?

Swapping to one of the aluminum valve covers is supposed to be the fix, but I think it has to be one of the earlier years. Try Mark's Offroad, he sells them.

I like the truck, looks like a great project.

 

[bikersmurf]

2F

Well it had to happen sooner or later - the first set back.

After finding some white/gray gunk in the radiator overflow I ordered a compression tester. It seems like the engine is toast

front to back (1-6)
1 - 128
2 - 132
3 - 125
4 - 112 (135 w)
5 - 130
6 - 98 (150w)

I checked the radiator when I first bought it and things looked green and clear. The oil looks normal - dark no milkiness

I was hoping to drive it around for a while before doing anything major, now I've got to start hoping I win an ebay engine auction.

On the positive side, I took it around the side of the house to wash it with my 5yr old. With all the rain I managed to sink into some mud on one side. It was then I hoped the front axle was going to engage as the FD pull is frozen. Locked the hubs and got out.

So in the near future I'll need to take this 1.5F out and get a cheap replacement short term, and maybe rebuild the 1.5F long term...

I'd just find a decent 2F and part the F. Rebuild parts are getting hard to find for F series... You'll likely be better off to rebuild a 2F when it comes to that.

 

[merlinridesagain]

I'd just find a decent 2F and part the F. Rebuild parts are getting hard to find for F series... You'll likely be better off to rebuild a 2F when it comes to that.

That crossed my mind. The only reason why I mentioned the F is that there is one being sold on ebay (Seller is a 4x4 shop) 20m north of me. I'll take a look in classifieds and see if there is a 2F close too. Thanks.

 

[skully3]

It looks like 9/73 was when they went with a factory rollbar. I've done a bit of searching here and it looks like you can fab or buy a kit to install the seats closer to the center of the tub so the rollbar fits behind. This thread was pretty goo:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ions-72-fj40-long-rear-stock-bench-seats.html

Good luck.

thanks for the thraed...i am def going to fab a rollbar now that I know...I thought there was an stock option those years..the kit option dosn't look like it will work for me. I don't plan on driving around with the top off w/o a rollbar.

 

[bsilva132]

I have a 69 f sitting at my parents house in Turlock you can have for a case of sierra nevada. I pulled it for a 2f. Ran strong but the rear main and side cover gaskets need to be replaced. PM me if you are interested.

 

[merlinridesagain]

thanks for the thraed...i am def going to fab a rollbar now that I know...I thought there was an stock option those years..the kit option dosn't look like it will work for me. I don't plan on driving around with the top off w/o a rollbar.

Just came across this too:

CCOT Wheel Well Supports

Looks like need to run supports under the wheel wells, or tie to frame.

 

[Scott68FJ40]

I had the same problem with my valve cover on the F engine in my 68. I went with an aluminum cover from a 2F, don't remember which year, and never had that problem again.

As for the milky white stuff in the radiator and the low compression numbers, my guess would be head gasket. Not sure how hard it is to replace on one an F engine, but might be a route to go.

 

[msahr]

Looks pretty good. What are your plans? Resto-mod or mild wheeler or?

Oh and please don't use the oil filler cap as a place for the hood prop rod. There's a hole for the prop rod in the front bib. Or lean it back against the windshield.

Your noggin will thank you. I think an FJ40 hood weighs about 300 pounds at least might sting a little if it falls on your head.

 

[SteveH]

Be sure to adjust the valves and re-test the compression before you declare the engine dead. Don't rule it out as dead until you do some basic PM. If it runs ok, drive it and enjoy it some on the old engine.

 

[merlinridesagain]

Looks pretty good. What are your plans? Resto-mod or mild wheeler or?

Oh and please don't use the oil filler cap as a place for the hood prop rod. There's a hole for the prop rod in the front bib. Or lean it back against the windshield.

Your noggin will thank you. I think an FJ40 hood weighs about 300 pounds at least might sting a little if it falls on your head.

I was wondering if I was missing an extension to the hood prop, but I've since learned to lean it all the way back. You're right it is heavy.

I mainly bought it as a mild wheeler and project. It's too stressful to work on something and know it has to be on the road on monday to drive to work. This way I can take on more difficult work, learning in the process and let it stretch over multiple weekends.

Eventually I'd like to go the frame off 'refresh', keeping it as stock as possible, with perhaps a 2.5" lift. Although for now it's just going over one part at a time making sure it's serviceable and getting it mechanically sound. Hopefully that way when it comes to taking the body off it'll be a shorter job as I've already worked on the rest. Unless there are more surprises hiding

 

[merlinridesagain]

Be sure to adjust the valves and re-test the compression before you declare the engine dead. Don't rule it out as dead until you do some basic PM. If it runs ok, drive it and enjoy it some on the old engine.

Thanks, you're right. I was very disappointed once I'd done the compression tests. But the next day I went back to working through the drivetrain with the intention to keep using it for local trips. Worst case I'll call AAA to get home and then retire it

 

[Bodean]

Do not use oven cleaner on the aluminum t-case. Oven cleaner is not good for aluminum. Get a good cleaner like Purple Power or the Castrol equivalent. I had to end up scraping off the heavy grease. You just have to work on it. At least it's warming up and you can get under there and get dirty without freezing! Good luck.

 

[merlinridesagain]

Do not use oven cleaner on the aluminum t-case. Oven cleaner is not good for aluminum. Get a good cleaner like Purple Power or the Castrol equivalent. I had to end up scraping off the heavy grease. You just have to work on it. At least it's warming up and you can get under there and get dirty without freezing! Good luck.

I was more worried about getting it in my eyes. In the end I went with: Extreme Simple Green Motorsports Cleaner & Degreaser. It said it was safe on AL and biodegradable. I have to be careful with product as there is a salmon habitat/stream 100 yards away from my side yard.

 

[merlinridesagain]

Well it's been almost three weeks so time for an update.



1) Poor grounds on the passenger indicator lights were resolved and now all the lights are working.
2) Replaced the horn
3) Replaced all the fuses - they were intact but over-rated and not making a continuous connection. This got the wipers working
4) Bled all the brakes - they were ok to start with, but there was a fair amount of air on the front passenger side cylinder.
5) All the gear oil is replaced

So it's getting there. While troubleshooting the wipers I found the clutch master is seeping fluid into the cab side of the firewall. So you fix something and find something else.

After posting a want add here I managed to meet up with BlueHZT60 and get a replacement 2F for my leaking sad 1.5F




It's missing an alternator and distributor which will be arriving later, but apart from that it's looking good. Thank you BlueHZT60.

It appears all the answers are here on MUD I figured if I was in a hurry my F alt and dist would work; the saginaw pump is better than the toyota pump so I should replace that.

One thing I have to work out is the belt routing. It has an airpump and A/C pump that I don't really need. The P/S pump will be replaced with my sag pump. Do I delete the non-needed accessories and re-route the belts? I think I just need water - PS - alt -fan

I've ordered the 2F FSM and hopefully help me get this swapped out.

After thinking about it I'm going to keep the three on the tree and use my 1.5F bell housing, but replace all the clutch components (resurface flywheel) as they're juddering at the moment on the 1.5F. That includes the leaking master.

Just out of curiosity I decided to take some 800/1500 wet and dry and take down some of the PO rattle can paint job. It's much smoother now and reveals the original blue colour.

Hopefully in the next three weeks I'll have the old engine pulled, the trans/x-fer cleaned, and on the way to reassembling on the 2F....well that's the plan anyway.....

 

[KZRSOIZE]

Have to look if CA has a law against broken speedos. The arm has fallen off and the digits don't go around.

View attachment 508494

The oil pressure seems to be working and maybe the fuel/amp gauges but temp is out and replaced with an aftermarket below.

Be cautious on these boards talking about legalities, cops are all over mud looking for violators.

Is it against the law, YEs. But lets be honest who will.......well let me stop there! If a CHP cop pulls you over and asks for your license and registration and asks"son do you know how fast you were going?" Dont answer no cuz my speedo dont work. Chp will cite you.

Anyhow, great 40 I love it!!

 

[bikersmurf]

You should be able to track down a working speedo, or fix that one.

You could also use a good tach to help you guage your speed. Don't recall the exact number but there are lots of rpm calculators on the web. In fourth 2000 rpm = 40 mph, 2250 =50, 2500 = 55, and so on...

Or gps...

 

[merlinridesagain]

You should be able to track down a working speedo, or fix that one.

I did find an app for it though, which is within a couple of mph of my DD speedo.

I'm also working with someone in the parting out section on getting a replacement.

I took the speedo cable apart and found the bottom section (transfer to speedmarker) was shot, but the upper was fine once disconnected from the speedo. The speedo doesn't allow the cable to turn so is beyond just a broken needle. It probably jammed up and broke the lower section.

These are all on the TODO list, I'll leave guessing the priority up to you

 

[merlinridesagain]

Speedo problem solved with a replacement cluster.

Spent the last couple of weeks when I had time disconnecting all the engine/driveshaft parts ready to pull the 1F out. The hardest part was probably the three on the tree shift linkages. I finally figured out there is a 9mm flat to help keep the joint from spinning while removing the ball joint nut.

Before I went to remove the 1F I checked the 2F and found the crank won't turn to get the clutch cover off :/ Yeah my fault for not checking in the first place. So it's sitting there with some oil in the cylinders, and I've ordered some Kroil to see if it's just the pistons siezed up. A couple of the plugs were rusted when I pulled those. Hopefully soaking it will get it free. Otherwise the strip down/rebuild route is next.

 

[merlinridesagain]

So more time on the 2F: the carb accelerator linkage was frozen so with some PB help took that off, together with the inlet and exahaust manifolds.

The carb butterflys were corroded in place, so that answers why that wasn't moving


There is an aftermarket carb base heater


Finally the headers came of, looking the best of the bunch. Shame as I'll probably keep the F exhaust manifold to avoid any hangup on the 3spd linkage.