700R & D300 install...

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orangefj45 said:
i want the scoop on the adapter!

Tom at Sunray designed them. They sell them exclusively. I have one on mine as does Ed (Rocktaxi).

They are major pimp ;)

Email Lance, I am sure he will set you up with a handful :D
 
very simple....spring end parts were from Poly Performance....1-3/4" DOM sleeve with poly bushings, takes a 9/16" bolt. Crossmember itself is 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall tubing, with a 3/8" x 2" flat plate for under the poly center mount (purchased at some local autodroid store for $25). Added some 1/2" x 1/8" flat on either side below the flat plate for additional bending resistance (believe they were 12" long) Side plate are 1/4" flat, as are the 1-1/2" x 1/4" drilled tabs.

Whole thing is very light, and should be more than strong enuf....not so concerned about it holding the weight, but surviving the force of my landings ;)
 
Woody... for the adapter to mate the 300 to the tranny you went to novak right? I am doing kinda the same swap but gotta put in a diff motor though.. Going 4.3vg with th350 and dana 300. I think the price of their adapter was like 416.00 or something...
 
Bull22 said:
Woody... for the adapter to mate the 300 to the tranny you went to novak right? I am doing kinda the same swap but gotta put in a diff motor though.. Going 4.3vg with th350 and dana 300. I think the price of their adapter was like 416.00 or something...

No that adapter came from www.sunrayengineering.com
 
Any idea on a price?
 
Regular price from Sunray is $475....adapter plus replacement outputshaft. 'MUD members get a better price ;) Call Lance and he'll let ya know. (my adapter was for the 700 to D300/Atlas...not sure if they are all priced the same or ?)

I liked this one over many others because it replaced the tranny output shaft, and doesn't rely on a spud shaft to mate with the tranny.
 
Glad to see your junk sitting on jackstands.. built 2 toyboxes this weekend.. Trying to catch up! Guess you need something to set that thing down on huh! :flipoff2:
I'm not to crossmember world yet but like your mounting idea..
 
Very cool woody. I figure that auto is a 27 spline so did you need a custom input shaft? Also any idea what model/year that rubber transmission mount is out of or details on it? Looks much better than the Jeep POS I run but is the same design except... hollow inside (retarded)
 
Ps I am totally jealous of that Dana 300, if I were smarter I definetely would have gone with one of those over the NP241 I am running now. I think mine is a little better stock but at 4:1 with all of the sweet mods out there I would love that...
 
woody said:
I liked this one over many others because it replaced the tranny output shaft, and doesn't rely on a spud shaft to mate with the tranny.

Andre, does this answer your question? :flipoff2:

Transmission mount is an off-the-shelf part at any autodroid store in the world....this one was from Autozone, but I've seen it at all the others...and it's poly, not rubber. No rubber will be used for drivetrain mounting...
 
Cool, mine is rubber and is a POS and with with the weight of a NV4500 and NV241 (that is the light part) it compresses down about an inch and moves under torque when wheeling. I am getting ready to completely redo my crossmember as well. It is well built but I have gone through two mounts already, i have lost $50 easily in these alone. That poly one is pretty sweet.

Missed the part about the output shaft but that is nice, explains the cost. Who made the rear axle, Badlands?
 
rear axle is my own creation.....mini outers, cruiser chunk, AA-Mfg caliper brackets, Monte calipers, GM rotors, mini shafts (chromo someday, or at least cryo'd).

Toyota Trails article pending on it, gotta finish the buildup work....
 
Next step, driveshafts....

Rear will be 24-1/2" or so...interestingly, that's the identical compressed length of a minitruck CV shaft....I "hope" that switching to a rear flange instead of the 1310 yoke will put me in that range....

Front, from the yoke face (mid-u-joint) to the face of the front flange is 40-7/8". Shown is the mockup of my old dented 27-1/4" CV shaft (mini CV, Cruiser slip/joing/flange). Again, it's quite possible a stock mini CV would work here, but I'm FAR from a shaft expert.

gonna PM Jess in a PBB thread now, and call Tom Woods Monday as well....Preferably, I'll run Toy joints all the way thru with flanges on the D300....however, I'm unsure I'll have either end setup so they require a CV (front is VERY likely tho....) Also unsure, at least in front, that there is room for a flange and stuff...may be forced to run the stock 1310's up there (no big deal for front work)
Dscn1502sm.webp
Dscn1503sm.webp
 
two more shaft pics....one of the estimated operating angle of the front shaft (that's the longer one in there) and the 2nd is of both of my CV shafts for a length comparison...
Dscn1504sm.webp
Dscn1505sm.webp
 
Stock D300, 81-86 model, not the oddball 80 one, and not a Scout.

Twin sticks are enroute, Lomax 4:1 is enroute, HD outputs are under consideration...stalling for the new Novak 32-spline short rear one...and may not do the front one

this one....
300rx_1.webp
 
nice work woody. hope it's warm out in the shop.

make sure you mount the front driveline well and maybe run a driveline loop, so you don't "nolan" your trans case! :flipoff2:
 
According to my call to them, they are hoping Jan 15...course, it was originally pimped in the September 2003 4WD&SU magazine on page 79, and hasn't been released to the public yet... (yes, I have the issue...dammit...)

face of bellhousing to center of output flange is 36-3/4" Don't recall what the stock Cruiser setup was, but only 3-4" longer....VERY workable.

Front dig is a concern....32-spline front is only $150 from Jesse, and is a likely upgrade....
 

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