700R & D300 install...

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If your d300 is spendy...what is my Novak adapter to a 420 and my 4.3 Atlas...


Hell,

And I have been SERIOUSLY thinking about going with a 420/Toybox/OTT adapter to an Atlas..


Looks great Brian, at least you are making progress on your project...I hope that I can have mine changed over in the next couple months... :rolleyes:


-Steve
 
ANYTHING AT ANYTIME CAN, AND WILL FAIL....


Good luck!


-Steve
 
Poser said:
If your d300 is spendy...what is my Novak adapter to a 420 and my 4.3 Atlas...


Hell,

And I have been SERIOUSLY thinking about going with a 420/Toybox/OTT adapter to an Atlas..


Looks great Brian, at least you are making progress on your project...I hope that I can have mine changed over in the next couple months... :rolleyes:


-Steve
Click to expand...
Steve, that is basically what I am going to do if the rear output on my second tcase does not hold...
 
Poser said:
If your d300 is spendy...what is my Novak adapter to a 420 and my 4.3 Atlas...


Hell,

And I have been SERIOUSLY thinking about going with a 420/Toybox/OTT adapter to an Atlas..

-Steve
Click to expand...

If you are serious, I have this exact setup now for sale. The mini box has stock (2.8) gears in it. The OTT adapter with correct output shaft already installed. All mounted to an Atlas, but same setup bolts up to a D300. As far as whats for sale, well......................

The entire drivetrain is being pulled soon, So any or all of it. I was planning to reuse the AtlasII but $$$ talks. I also have the adapter and output shaft to connect to the splitcase. The original Marlin Split ToyBox 001. Serious inquiries to my email addy , msmythe@iei.net will get responses, make an offer!
 
Poser said:
ANYTHING AT ANYTIME CAN, AND WILL FAIL....


Good luck!


-Steve
Click to expand...

I know, I've seen me do it :-)
 
woody said:
Rear will be 24-1/2" or so...interestingly, that's the identical compressed length of a minitruck CV shaft....I "hope" that switching to a rear flange instead of the 1310 yoke will put me in that range....
Click to expand...

My rear shaft is an IFS 4-runner front shaft just modified to get the 32* angle out of it.. angle of operation is gonna be an issue for me, but your whole driveline is a bit lower than mine.

woody said:
Front, from the yoke face (mid-u-joint) to the face of the front flange is 40-7/8". Shown is the mockup of my old dented 27-1/4" CV shaft (mini CV, Cruiser slip/joing/flange). ....Preferably, I'll run Toy joints all the way thru with flanges on the D300....however, I'm unsure I'll have either end setup so they require a CV (front is VERY likely tho....) Also unsure, at least in front, that there is room for a flange and stuff...may be forced to run the stock 1310's up there (no big deal for front work)
Click to expand...

I'm interested to hear what is recommended to you and what you wind up with... for my 2-piece front, Jess pretty much had me talked into a Toy shaft, with a 1410 center... But I forgot to ask him how much bigger the 1410 center is vs. the Toyota center. The cost wasn't that much higher with the 1410, but I don't think I need the brute strength of a 1410 center a front shaft.

He mentioned the Toyota center that runs through the pillow block is around 1" diameter, while the 1410 is around 1 5/8" diameter.

I was thinking on a location very similar to yours for the front shaft... right around the middle of the torque converter. My front shaft is a bit longer, around 49" total. (Longer adapter, and my front axle is pushed way forward)
 
32-spline front JB Conversions shaft ordered, still pissed that the Novak rear won't be out for 6 or 60 months....probably gonna order up the JB rear next week too, once I'm no longer pissed....

Talked with a couple shaft shops, all said and done, Jesse at High Angle seemed to be the highest recommended and had good pricing too....not sure on final (lots to figger yet) but expecting a call back from him yet tonite... I'm planning Toy miniCV in the rear and a non-CV toy in front, 1310 for the 2-piece at the front output tho. Unless Jess tells me otherwise, of course...lol...but that was the recommendation from our initial conversation.

1" diameter makes more sense to me with the very tight confines of the D300/700R spacing....even JB Conversions shows a 1-1/4" shaft on their site once the D300 is clocked.
 
Why is clearance an issue if you are going two piece?

1310 will be fine up front since you are going 2 peice, the transfer output won't see any angles.........

I love my shafts from High Angle. I won that JE Reel driveline $300 cert. and to make it work on my Cruiser I am having to spend an ADDITIONAL $275.

$575 for a driveshaft :rolleyes:
 
$300 cert? thot that was a free shaft ;)

Just off the phone with Jess...1350 front output, Toy for the balance. Rear 32-spline with flange and Toy CV. Have a few doner parts to send Jess, and some last second measurements, but will end up with a bulletproof case.... (and a very displeased missus...)

can't believe you trashed yer front shaft, course, I HAVE seen you drive....lol
 
Didn't he grind the shaft instead of modifying the skid plate?? :rolleyes:

Is this the same shaft?
 
Poser said:
Didn't he grind the shaft instead of modifying the skid plate?? :rolleyes:

Is this the same shaft?
Click to expand...

It was not the skidplate, it was the tanny pan. I removed the 10 spline course splines in the area by the tranny pan.

It was still 1.75" solid rod at that point.

It should not have given out, but it was bent and I was going 55mph in 4WD.
 
woody said:
1" diameter makes more sense to me with the very tight confines of the D300/700R spacing....even JB Conversions shows a 1-1/4" shaft on their site once the D300 is clocked.
Click to expand...

Actually what I'm referring to is the size of the shaft/splines that go through the carrier bearing at the middle of the 2-piece.

Jess was urging me to go 1410 carrier, but enough people i trust have said 1310 is OK for the front, so the Toyota parts will be just fine.
 
motor mounts....

Had the AA-type in there, allowed LOTS of shift in the motor, side to side, front to back, etc....trying to reinstall the tranny crossmember was already turning into a PITA...

So, somethin beefier, and much more stable....these outta work....
Dscn1522sm.webp
Dscn1523sm.webp
 
one more, welds cooling, frame side mounts tomorrow morning (family party this aft, cleanup time...plus, outta shop propane, and it's gettin chilly!)
Dscn1524sm.webp
 
woody said:
hey, that chick in your avatar is hawt! ;)
Click to expand...

Reading along then realized who that was in Grogs avatar! I bet she has a stack of Jell-O shooters near by.

The mounts your making, XJ bushings?

Mark
 
woody said:
one more, welds cooling, frame side mounts tomorrow morning (family party this aft, cleanup time...plus, outta shop propane, and it's gettin chilly!)
Click to expand...

Do think this will flex less than the donuts? I've got the donut style motor mount (Downey with Toyota rear engine mount donut) and one of them is flattend out.

Looking good Woody!
 
I definitely feel this will flex less.....DOM sleeve and poly bushing/insert were from PolyPerformance.com. Few other shops I know make these too, real solid stuff. Basic leaf spring bushings...

Hated the donut mount since it could easily shift on the horizontal plane....dammed irritating.

Target test run is first weekend in Feb, may run some local ice races and see how it works....hoping for a 2nd test run in late Feb to Attica for some more "forceful" tests ;)
 
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