'70 FJ40 Hazards and Turn Signals - Diagnosis & Tracking Down

[stoshzack]

Hi All -

I have got most of my lights up and running after cleaning an apparently very dirty original fuse block and using dielectric grease on the connections on my 1970 FJ40 . However, both my turn signals and hazards will still not operate. I have seen numerous posts on the subject on here, but still wondering the most common failure and thus where to start.

Thanks so much,
Stoshzack

 

[Pighead]

Most common problem is (a) bad ground(s). Especially the fronts, where they are (supposed to be) grounded to the fenders through the hollow tube...
Also, a bad hazard switch will make the turn signals not work. Clean those connections too.

 

[Charleston FJ40]

Do your turn signals work as parking lights? Have you hooked up your lights to a battery to see if they work? Does your flasher module work? Does it make noise when you activate it? Let us know..

 

[sggoat]

It's a ground issue--"Claudia"

 

[Cleg]

Most of the problems that I ran into during re-wiring were a result of not having a good ground.

I ran into one tricky problem that took a few days to figure out.
When the turn signal switch was turned on the light on the appropriate side would blink once then stay on.

Running out of things to try, I swapped the 2 leads to each of the front park/turn assemblies and everything began working properly.
That is, intentionally mis-matching the green & green/yellow wires between the 1972 wiring harness and the pair of new replacement Toyota park/turn lamp assemblies.

Note, If you disassemble the hazard switch assembly it is difficult to put back together.
Suggest leaving it alone unless you are sure it is not working properly.

 

[DSRTRDR]

It's a ground issue--"Claudia"

 

[Pin_Head]

None of them work: Bad hazard switch or flasher

ONe side doesn't work: Bad turn signal switch.

One light doesn't work or they don't flash: bad ground, bad connection, bad bulb

There are other possibilities

 

[stoshzack]

Ok - update and still puzzled:

Symptoms:
All lights work as parking lights
Hazard makes no sound when pulled.

I removed the hazard switch, and sprayed the connectors and tried to spray the inside of the switch with electrical cleaning solution (and tried to work it in). I did not disassemble the switch to clean. Since the lights work in parking mode, it is not a ground problem....correct?

Thanks

 

[Pighead]

Since the lights work in parking mode, it is not a ground problem....correct?

Not necessarily. A bad ground can prevent it from blinking. Low voltage can do the same.

 

[7228]

I had some thing like this on my 69. I took the switch apart and cleaned the coper dots with some sand paper. Put it back together and every thing worked.

 

[Living in the Past]

The hazard lights have their own fuse that is not in the fuse block. I ran into this problem when I got 68. Got everything else working but those. The dealer said there was a inline fuse in the wiring harness in the top of the dash and wanted a small fortune to replace. I passed on having them do it. A few years later when taking apart the vent in the cowl I found the inline fuse right under vent. Replaced the fuse and the flashers have worked ever since. This was in the seventies. I'm sure the original owner's wiring hacks cause the fuse to blow.

 

[stoshzack]

Thanks Guys for all the help.

Here is an update:

I replaced turn signal/harzard relay with updated Toyota OEM part. I found the in-line fuse under the cowl. The whole fuse housing & fuse were toast, so I replaced. [Thanks so much, I never would have found it.] However, still no turn signal or hazard.

I am working on ensuring proper grounding the lights, but all are still working in parking mode. I am running jumpers from the ground side of the lights to the frame.

Any suggested avenues to explore next are welcome. I am thinking of replacing the hazard switch. Any one know approximate voltage coming off the back of the switch solder points?

Stoshzack

 

[Pin_Head]

It is often a bad switch. They are rebuildable if you are careful.

 

[Living in the Past]

Thanks Guys for all the help.

Here is an update:

I replaced turn signal/harzard relay with updated Toyota OEM part. I found the in-line fuse under the cowl. The whole fuse housing & fuse were toast, so I replaced. [Thanks so much, I never would have found it.] However, still no turn signal or hazard.

Glad you were able to find that inline fuse but this signal/hazard relay confuses me. Two flasher mounted on the firewall. One by the trouble light plug the other on the driver's side. One hazard switch on the dash and the turn signal switch. Don't know of any relay. Hazard switch has power all the time. Check the hidden inline fuse to see if it has power. Thought I had a picture some where of the fuse cover which showed which was the turn signal fuse. That should have power only when the ignition switch is turned on. I would start there. Then use a wiring diagram to follow the wiring from there. Then find out where you lose power. This is after you check to be sure you don't have power at the lamps first. I would run a wire from the negative terminal on the battery to use for checking ground. This will insure you checking with a good ground.

 

[stoshzack]

Thanks Living in the Past -

My mistake, by "relay" I meant "flasher". I do not see another flasher by the trouble outlet on this '70; just the one by the driver's side. I did verify 12 volts to the flasher switch (i.e. through the newly installed in-line fuse). I am getting no other voltages off any of the other soldered terminals on the back of the switch when/or when not activated.

 

[Living in the Past]

Here is a picture of the turn signal flasher in my 1970 (10/69 production date) model. I believe it was a few years until the wiring changed to a single flasher for turn signals and hazard flashers. If you don't have this second flasher a PO may have made some mods to your factory wiring.

 

[stoshzack]

Ha, ha...thanks. I went out and looked. There were bolts to mount it which I didn't really notice before. Couldn't find where it electrically connected in the harness b/c PO did not cut anything. Found the connection hiding. Thanks so much!

 

[stoshzack]

Ok, so I am slightly confused. It looks like Toyota (according to SOR) made a change in the style (and/or the number) flashers in 7/1970. So I am trying to figure out if I should have one or two. Can any one confirm which one? This is a 7-8/1970 FJ40.

 

[Living in the Past]

Ok, so I am slightly confused. It looks like Toyota (according to SOR) made a change in the style (and/or the number) flashers in 7/1970. So I am trying to figure out if I should have one or two. Can any one confirm which one? This is a 7-8/1970 FJ40.

I checked SOR site and it shows the flasher for the hazard as 68 to 7/70. Looks like when the they combined the flashers into one. I will say I have had problems with internal links on their site. Go to the FJ40 wiring diagram and check on number 10 which should be the main cowl harness and it takes you to a grommet for the choke cable. Seems 7/70 was a lot of changes in the FJ70. Does your have a brake booster? How do the front seats release to fold forward? Not sure what Toyota considered the change from the 70 to 71 model but most changes happened 7/70. There was a VIN plate attached to the A pillar on the driver's side if it was 40 imported to the US. The month and year should be stamped there. If you don't have it but have brake booster you likely have the later harness.

 

[Deputy Toddler]

It's been said already, but I want to reiterate how important it is to check all the grounds, both front and rear! I had similar issues on my '69 about a year ago and the grounds were the first thing I did. I also replaced both flashers (I can't speak to your '70, but my '69 has two of them) with universal electronic versions from an auto parts store and they've worked great.

What ended up making the difference for me was the actual turn signal switch, which pinhead mentioned. It's kind of a pain to get the whole assembly off the steering column, and you have to be careful bending the tiny tabs on the switch housing to get it open. Do it all over a towel or something, to make sure none of the little pieces go flying and disappear somewhere on the shop floor when you open it up. I cleaned up all the connections inside the box and got rid of all the dirt and grime, and presto, turn signals and hazard lights that actually worked!