6bt cummins NV4500 1996 LX450 swap

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Did you have to use the 100 series rear housing also or just the carrier. I'm assuming they go together. I'm already on the hunt for one.
I bought a 100 series rear axle and used just the whole carrier assembly but not the axle housing. The only 80 series carrier parts that were used were the side gears.

Final setup is:
1) 80 series axle housing, side gear oiler washer with GM oiler washer added (due to slack) and side gears.
2) 100 series rear carrier
3) PDI ring and pinion kit (front/rear)
4) PDI bearing kit (front/rear)
 
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For clarification:

Number 1 is the original oiling washer for the 80 series and number 2 is the oiling washer out of a GM 8.5 28 spline open unit. They were both used together. The photo shows how they were stacked.
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Looking for a Cummins expert to help me troubleshoot a rough idle. I’m happy to pay a consulting fee for the help. Right now my Cummins has a rough idle at low rpm. It’s running smooth at a higher rpm but at 900-1100 rpm’s it’s rough. I’ve changed the overflow valve on the p7100, replaced the vibration dampner on the crankshaft and just installed a clear hose between the fuel filter and p7100 to look for air in the line (no air observed while testing). Return line seems to be pulsating.

Not sure how to proceed with additional troubleshooting.
 


Looking for a Cummins expert to help me troubleshoot a rough idle. I’m happy to pay a consulting fee for the help. Right now my Cummins has a rough idle at low rpm. It’s running smooth at a higher rpm but at 900-1100 rpm’s it’s rough. I’ve changed the overflow valve on the p7100, replaced the vibration dampner on the crankshaft and just installed a clear hose between the fuel filter and p7100 to look for air in the line (no air observed while testing). Return line seems to be pulsating.

Not sure how to proceed with additional troubleshooting.


Is it a 160HP engine? Has the injection pump been rebuilt?
 
Dodge never used a 185 engine. 94-95 auto was 160HP. 94-95 stickshift was 175HP. 96-98 Auto was 180HP. 96-98 stickshift was 215HP.

The early 160 pumps have a defect where the housing warps and they miss like that. It used to be well known.

Do injectors all pop correctly and spray clean and crisp?

Compression test to reveal a valve problem? (bad rings will not cause rough idle)

Verify valve lift visually/with an indicator- Flat camshaft lobe will cause rough running. 94-98 engines are uncommon to see camshaft issues unless maintenance was bad. 89-93 engines commonly have bad camshafts.
 
Dodge never used a 185 engine. 94-95 auto was 160HP. 94-95 stickshift was 175HP. 96-98 Auto was 180HP. 96-98 stickshift was 215HP.

The early 160 pumps have a defect where the housing warps and they miss like that. It used to be well known.

Do injectors all pop correctly and spray clean and crisp?

Compression test to reveal a valve problem? (bad rings will not cause rough idle)

Verify valve lift visually/with an indicator- Flat camshaft lobe will cause rough running. 94-98 engines are uncommon to see camshaft issues unless maintenance was bad. 89-93 engines commonly have bad camshafts.
Thank you for the list! The motor came out of a 1995 Dodge 3500 (auto) so it must be 160hp. Compression test showed over 400 psi on all cylinders. I had the injectors cleaned before installing the motor. The diesel shop said everything looked good with them.
 
Is the truck hard to start? Or does it fire right up? Is it slower to start after it sits?


Have you replaced the lift pump and check valve? Cheap potential solution before looking at P7100 rebuild.
 
Is the truck hard to start? Or does it fire right up? Is it slower to start after it sits?


Have you replaced the lift pump and check valve? Cheap potential solution before looking at P7100 rebuild.
Truck fires right up everytime and has a smooth idle above 1100. Changed the overflow valve last week and didn’t change anything. Luckily, I’ve found a retired local Cummins mechanic with 35 years experience. He going to help me troubleshoot the issue. We’re going to check the delivery valves on the pump and check valve lashing as well.
 
Thank you! Where are you located?
In Tupelo. I have a 96 bronco that needed the rear end rebuilt. When I went in last week to talk to the owner I saw your lc on the lift. I walked under it and was surprised that I didn't see the underside of a 1fz. The owner told me it had a cummins swap. Needless to say I looked at it for several minutes. Paint job is also very well done.
 
In Tupelo. I have a 96 bronco that needed the rear end rebuilt. When I went in last week to talk to the owner I saw your lc on the lift. I walked under it and was surprised that I didn't see the underside of a 1fz. The owner told me it had a cummins swap. Needless to say I looked at it for several minutes. Paint job is also very well done.
I think I remember seeing that Bronco at Tye’s shop. If you decide to do a Cummins swap, reach out. I can show you all the mistakes I have made.
 
Lately, I've been addressing my brake and clutch pedal. I bought the clutch pedal off ebay from an Australian salvage yard several years back, not thinking that it was a right hand drive setup. I mounted the clutch pedal and realized it was very close to the firewall. I also realized the brake pedal needed to be modified after talking to several others ( @mattimooseprime @Will Van ).




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Clutch pedal modification:

I cranked up the cutting torch and put a little heat on the pedal. Just enough heat to slightly change to a orangish-red color. The pedal easily bent with slight pressure from a crescent wrench while in the vise. It was very easy to adjust the shape of the pedal. I added several gussets for my sanity.



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