- Thread starter
- #61
Getting REALLY close with the front link brackets......
Builds ‘68 M715, AKA "Smokey" (Can I post this Jeep on MUD?)
- Thread starter Rock40
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Buddy broke his collar bone racing his dirt bike so fingers crossed the brackets get burnt out prior to his surgery to fix that mess
- Thread starter
- #63
Brackets are done at long last 
A few need minor adjustments and will be re-cut after a bit of tweaking but you get the idea
A few need minor adjustments and will be re-cut after a bit of tweaking but you get the idea
- Thread starter
- #64
Played with the tires and steering a bit, thinking about the backspacing on the wheels. This is not quite on the OEM metal steering stops but it’s close. It’s a reasonable compromise because I want to run wheels like the H1’s with about as much negative offset as I can get away with.
Shouldn’t have to trim the cab and fenders too much to clears the 40’s
Shouldn’t have to trim the cab and fenders too much to clears the 40’s
- Thread starter
- #65
Worked the passenger side brackets as the incorporate the panhard mount.
Dirty tube...
Clean tube
Panhard lower mount
Dirty tube...
Clean tube
Panhard lower mount
- Thread starter
- #66
Here’s the upper panhard mount. I may push it outboard a bit or bend the link just slightly to help clear the D60. It’ll run a shorter pitman arm for sure
This is only 8.5” total between them and represents $25.87 in waste, sheesh
This is only 8.5” total between them and represents $25.87 in waste, sheesh
- Thread starter
- #68
Slowly but surely my friend. The goal is thrashing it at CTW 2020. GOAL
Looking great. You could put a slight bend in the front links for tire clearance and turning radius?
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks, yeah that has been considered, I had no choice on my 40. Ideally I'd like to keep them straight, not to mention that the 2.25" diameter 3/8" wall stuff would be a real chore to bend. The panhard is certainly going to get a bit of bend to help it clear the diff, with the aftermarket diff cover installed, it's simply going to be way too tight.
Makes sense. Super cool truck. Putting some real thought into it. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
The steering arms from NWF are pretty short. I'm betting they'd gain you some room.
- Thread starter
- #73
Yeah, I think I've looked at all of them now and NWF was at the top of the list for quality. The issue is the lower panhard mount/shock mount and the frame. I'd love to use them but I think it would limit the steering stop too much as the high steer arm would interfere with the panhard and shock mount. The plan is to run a 7075 drag link so we shouldn't bend it, hopefully. I plan to run a high steer arm only on the driver side to function as a hydro ram mount. There's way more room over there.
- Thread starter
- #74
Update: got the needed tubing for the rear 4 link so no more PVC. Everything is only tacked in place but I cycled it all again to check and it moves great.
Fairly good ground clearance, it’s all above the axle tube
Fairly good ground clearance, it’s all above the axle tube
- Thread starter
- #75
Did a quick install of the front clip and passenger fender, I was reminded of why I had this stuff media blasted. It’s crusty. Much of the front clip is busted and cracking apart from AK roads. It’ll need some serious TIG time
This is where I envision the wheel backspacing to be. Going with custom TrailReady’s and the fender will likely get trimmed back a bit.
This is where I envision the wheel backspacing to be. Going with custom TrailReady’s and the fender will likely get trimmed back a bit.
- Thread starter
- #76
It’s going to be pretty big, even on only 2” of lift
Got to work on the frame side front link brackets. Two large “nutserts” are frenched into the frame and welded to the bracket. Custom made and tapped to 5/8-18 they have about 1” of thread engagement and allows the bracket to suck all the way up against the frame maximizing tire to link clearance
Got to work on the frame side front link brackets. Two large “nutserts” are frenched into the frame and welded to the bracket. Custom made and tapped to 5/8-18 they have about 1” of thread engagement and allows the bracket to suck all the way up against the frame maximizing tire to link clearance
- Thread starter
- #77
Burning off the last of the old front body mounts... welding, welding, welding...
- Thread starter
- #78
Frame cut out for the upper nutsert
Fully TIG welded
And it’s in! This is full bump passenger
Fully TIG welded
And it’s in! This is full bump passenger
- Thread starter
- #79
It works 
Full droop, probably much further than it should be allowed to go for all practical purposes
And for 51 year old sheet metal, this level at the top of the body cowl is a pass in my book
Full droop, probably much further than it should be allowed to go for all practical purposes
And for 51 year old sheet metal, this level at the top of the body cowl is a pass in my book
Super sexy man.
