Builds 66 Lincoln Continental build thread (1 Viewer)

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Finished the engine side of the engine harness. Just have to re-pin the PCM connectors and wire up the fuse box

Got the speeduino mostly done. Waiting on a soldering station to do the ICs.

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Regardless being invaded by the all time thread derailer of all time...

Fixed a few things I didn't like about the battery box, got the brake booster and master where I want them. Made some lines from the master to the combo valve. I thought about building an air box where the old heater box was. Mocked in the stock truck airbox to see what I would need to build. The plan was to use the intake of the airbox over the stock outlet from the cowl vent, which isn't used with the restomod air.

1st pic has the open hole with the still dirty vent outlet. 2nd pic is the mocked up, balanced on vise grips, airbox in place over the outlet

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Dropped the engine back in so i could know where plugs needed to go. Mounted up the LS1 water pump so I could install the A/C compressor. Turns out the A/C compressor sits right in my new battery tray. I think I have an idea to fix it.

Ordered a alt/ps bracket and mounted it up. New alternator, power steering pump with dual return reservoir and idler will be here next week.

I got a drive by wire PCM, module and pedal. Once I knew where the PCM was going to sit above the ds headlight I could terminate the pcm plugs. Mounted the ignition fuse box next to the holes for the factory fuel lines where the pcm harness runs. Orange wires are going to a power distribution center that's on its way. Everything from Amazon seems like it's a week out. It's a new version of the one on the fender.

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New intake came in so I updated the pic. There is a ton of room behind the motor and the airbox is in the hole where the ac was, so I put the intake on backwards. DBW doesn't care. I think the coils will go on top of the bellhousing too. Might shave the valve covers.



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Got really warm here this week. The shop is heated, but only when I'm in there. The slab never gets warm. While it was above freezing I wanted to get some stuff done close to the ground. Ran a new rear brake line. The one I made while it was on the hoist got kinked. This time the master was in place so I ran it the whole way and tucked it up tight. Ran the fuel lines too. Ford ran them through the fender, but ran them to the front. I went in next to the master. Obviously, I need grommets still.

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Set the battery tray back into the fender to move it back 3.5". Now the battery clears the AC compressor.

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I'm not familiar with the engine mounts on that engine, but do you have enough room for the engine to "rock" back and forth in there during heavy foot application and still clear the battery tray? I can't tell how many washing machines of a gap there is between the bracket and the battery hardware.
 
Spent most of my last day of winter break in the drivers inner fenderwell. Once I got the termination points of the bulk of the chassis wiring in place I could start wiring to them. Almost everything has been wired to the firewall from everywhere else. Now I can finish wiring behind the dash and the dash itself. The relay box I ordered from bluesea is waterproof so I put it inside the fender behind the bolt in fender well. Ford put the factory metal box relays here, not waterproof and they lasted, more or less , until it got stored and the contacts all got munged up.

There's still one relay open. I suspect I'll find a use for it.

Currently, the relays are horn, fuel pump, ignition 1, ignition 2, and lights. Blower motor relay is on the restomod air box. Window relays are in the doors.

Can you spot and ID all the modules? They definitely take up less space than the old analog and vacuum modules that were there.

Then before and after inner fender.

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LS swap the world.

Pulled the motor and trans to clean and accessorize for final drop

Cheap intake. Truck manifold flows better, but doesn't fit and is ugly as a pig. I moved the MAP underneath. I ordered a Lincoln star hood badge that should look nice where it is now.

Alternator bracket will not allow the power steering reservoir cap to go on unless I cut the dipstick off and notch the bracket. I guess I can look in and see what the level is. Fits fine now.

New dipstick location is tight with the alternator, ECT, and #1 plug wire. a simple bracket should make sure it doesn't get into the plug wire or positive output of the alternator.

Drilled and tapped the old dipstick hole for a plug.

New starter on.

High heat painted skinny manifolds on.

Block cleaned and painted a light gray

Heads and valley pan wire wheeled clean

New coil brackets are going on the fire wall, I think. I made a set of wires off of the coils mounted on the shelf. Looks nice and clean. i haven't terminated both ends yet. I'll wait until I get everything back in place.

Just gonna paint the stock valve covers for now. Maybe a wrinkle black finish to match the wrinkle black air intake tube.

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118" belt is too long. Dofus at Advanced had no clue how to look up belts by length so a new one will have to wait.

Valve covers look good in wrinkle black. Stainless button head bolt were supposed to be here today, but Amazon.

65 hood crest looks good where the MAP was. New MAP location is underneath.

PS pulley is pressed all the way down. Ih8 press on pulleys.



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That's a funny looking Land Cruiser.
 

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