Any new updates?? Doing similar work to my 65 Continental. Just found this forum and just went through all 7 pages of this forum. I have a few body work questions also. Very detailed! I appreciate this write up.
Build 66 Lincoln Continental build thread
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
I've been distracted by my 450sl, but once I start daily driving that my plans are to get the rest of the body work done on the Slab.
65 is prolly the best year.
65 is prolly the best year.
- Thread starter
- #143
How to build a project car on the cheap:
Mock up the grill to align the header panel I had replaced earlier. It looked good until I was doing hood gaps.
Get carried away and install the headlights.
Desire LED headlights with turn signals and running lights. Decide i need to terminate the wiring, so I should do this right away-ish
Remove the OEM FoMoCo script glass lens sealed beam headlights.
See the new LED headlights are too deep for the buckets. The instructions say cut the headlight buckets so I did that. An alarming number of features got cut off. Put that off for a future version of me to deal with. Also, after the bowl was cut from the mounting ring, there was nothing for the bucket to pivot on. The adjusters are two screws working against a spring. It needs the bottom to act as a fulcrum.
Watch SuperfastMatt
Buy a Bambu Labs X1C 3d printer.
Re-learn solid modeling.
Print 7 versions of a headlight bucket.
Print 4 of the final version. Order new adjusters and springs
Assemble.
Easy, easy, lemon squeezy
Mock up the grill to align the header panel I had replaced earlier. It looked good until I was doing hood gaps.
Get carried away and install the headlights.
Desire LED headlights with turn signals and running lights. Decide i need to terminate the wiring, so I should do this right away-ish
Remove the OEM FoMoCo script glass lens sealed beam headlights.
See the new LED headlights are too deep for the buckets. The instructions say cut the headlight buckets so I did that. An alarming number of features got cut off. Put that off for a future version of me to deal with. Also, after the bowl was cut from the mounting ring, there was nothing for the bucket to pivot on. The adjusters are two screws working against a spring. It needs the bottom to act as a fulcrum.
Watch SuperfastMatt
Buy a Bambu Labs X1C 3d printer.
Re-learn solid modeling.
Print 7 versions of a headlight bucket.
Print 4 of the final version. Order new adjusters and springs
Assemble.
Easy, easy, lemon squeezy
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I love what you’re doing. Just read all 144 posts. Sub’d.
Hey new here, great work man you make it look way too easy.. I was wondering where you got the replacement panels you welded onto the continenetal? I've searched up and down the webs can't seem to find anyone selling replacement sheetmetal panels
- Thread starter
- #148
Been a while. Got sidetracked with a Benz and a Jeep. The Lincoln is so close I just have to move it a little further this winter. I just did a bunch of flat panel patches that came out OK on the Jeep bed.
The stupid thing just sits if front of my pondering chair looking sad. I put the front bumper on and the grille to see how it would look and to finish the lighting wiring.
I had replaced the panel in front of the hood above the grille, whatever you would call that. When I welded it on it pulled back and twisted the whole panel about 1/8 out of square to the grille. When i put it all together, the gap was wrong. So I cut it back off and welded it up square taking time to not let the big seam across the hood seal lip shrink too badly.
Today I body worked the new welds. No high build yet. Just kitty hair over the seam and a little filler to make it smooth.
The stupid thing just sits if front of my pondering chair looking sad. I put the front bumper on and the grille to see how it would look and to finish the lighting wiring.
I had replaced the panel in front of the hood above the grille, whatever you would call that. When I welded it on it pulled back and twisted the whole panel about 1/8 out of square to the grille. When i put it all together, the gap was wrong. So I cut it back off and welded it up square taking time to not let the big seam across the hood seal lip shrink too badly.
Today I body worked the new welds. No high build yet. Just kitty hair over the seam and a little filler to make it smooth.
- Thread starter
- #149
The fenders looked so sad I cleaned them off. They've been loyal bench tops for a couple of years.
The last thing I did to them was to hit them with some high build. I gave that a coat of guide coat.
Body guys could tell better than me, but it looks like maybe a branch fell on the DS. Two, maybe three low spots with high spots pushed out around them.
The last thing I did to them was to hit them with some high build. I gave that a coat of guide coat.
Body guys could tell better than me, but it looks like maybe a branch fell on the DS. Two, maybe three low spots with high spots pushed out around them.
I wonder what those fenders weigh. There's a lot of metal there.
- Thread starter
- #152
And a crease right where the front piece is welded to the fender. Must have took some stress when the front panel got mashed in.
Dunno if I want to weld the antenna hole up, or put the power unit back in.
Dunno if I want to weld the antenna hole up, or put the power unit back in.
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- Thread starter
- #153
I got one of the outers off. It had been replaced once upon a time so I took it back off to do rust repairs and wire the PCM in. It's not a lot heavier than an early 40 fender.
- Thread starter
- #154
Those fender tops worry me the most with painting it black. That's a long flat stretch right in my eye that will show every reflection and every imperfection.
- Thread starter
- #155
Little flat spot on the nose of the header panel.
Looks like a dent was filled with a little filler
Some hours later.
Hit it with the surface conditioner
Used the shop light reflection to dial it in. Was working on the blue line when I realized it was a reflection of a rope light and wasn't straight to start with
Looks like a dent was filled with a little filler
Some hours later.
Hit it with the surface conditioner
Used the shop light reflection to dial it in. Was working on the blue line when I realized it was a reflection of a rope light and wasn't straight to start with
- Thread starter
- #156
Fender looks like the previous owner hit a sloth with the left fender.
Almost a full day of making a mess out of the three dots on the body line. Today's snow day task is fixing the mess. I need to do a little where the door ding trim was too.
Once the left fender is done the im ready to body work the front clip and then sealer everything back to the quarters.
Almost a full day of making a mess out of the three dots on the body line. Today's snow day task is fixing the mess. I need to do a little where the door ding trim was too.
Once the left fender is done the im ready to body work the front clip and then sealer everything back to the quarters.
- Thread starter
- #157
Well, I made the mistake of doing black primer sealer and now it has to be black. I just can't see this car in anything else.
Still needs high build surfacer on the fender tops. The right side still has damage and a terrible repair and the quarters still need to be finished, but it's moving forward.
I've decided on a vinyl top, so the roof is good. Bumped out some dents and sealed it.
The nose is good. The two little dents on body lines came out well. The welds are good where the splice happened.
Next up is to get it running.
Still needs high build surfacer on the fender tops. The right side still has damage and a terrible repair and the quarters still need to be finished, but it's moving forward.
I've decided on a vinyl top, so the roof is good. Bumped out some dents and sealed it.
The nose is good. The two little dents on body lines came out well. The welds are good where the splice happened.
Next up is to get it running.
You’re a Michigan fan, don’t you have a lot of L’s laying around?
Black??? My mind went straight to Animal House....
