'66 FJ40 found (2 Viewers)

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Hello everyone,

I have enjoyed these forums for a while now. I am new at posting, so please forgive any mistakes.
I have recently found a '66 FJ40. I have only viewed it at a distance. After some research, I have contacted the owner. He said he intended to restore it but never found the time. In his words, "It's time to let it go to someone that will take care of it." I will not be able to view it closely for at least a month, due to owner's work.

A few things he said about it:
Factory 6 cyl & 3 speed on the column
Corrugated hardtop with dual folding rear panels
Dual doors at rear of tub
Has not ran in many years, didn't say how long

Now the questions:
Where do I find the model numbers for the drivetrain? He thinks it's all original.
Other than condition of the tub, what else should I look at?
Possible factory options?

Any input will be greatly appreciated.
 
Hello everyone,

I have enjoyed these forums for a while now. I am new at posting, so please forgive any mistakes.
I have recently found a '66 FJ40. I have only viewed it at a distance. After some research, I have contacted the owner. He said he intended to restore it but never found the time. In his words, "It's time to let it go to someone that will take care of it." I will not be able to view it closely for at least a month, due to owner's work.

A few things he said about it:
Factory 6 cyl & 3 speed on the column
Corrugated hardtop with dual folding rear panels
Dual doors at rear of tub
Has not ran in many years, didn't say how long

Now the questions:
Where do I find the model numbers for the drivetrain? He thinks it's all original.
Other than condition of the tub, what else should I look at?
Possible factory options?

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

First off, that is an early 1965, and not a 1966. Corrugated hard tops ended mid year 1965. It might be titled as a '66, but it is not a '66.

What are your plans for it? If it is to be a true restoration, this sounds like a great place to start. If your plan is to make mods to wheel it, I'd say keep looking, for many reasons.
 
Jerry, thanks for the link.

Wife, thanks for the correction on the date. So you're saying it was produced in '65 but tilted as a '66 right.

If I'm fortunate enough to get it, my intentions are to make it a DD for now. Then as time and finances permit, I will do a complete restoration.
 
If I'm fortunate enough to get it, my intentions are to make it a DD for now. Then as time and finances permit, I will do a complete restoration.

I suggest that you look for a 1971 and up 40 if you want a DD. This older rig has, very hard to find parts, i.e. old weaker F135 engine, ball and claw "weaker" front axle, 9 mm drum brakes on all 4 corners, a single circuit brake master...etc, etc, etc. You are going to end up spending A LOT more than you think, to make this a DD.

Not trying to discourage you, you can take it or leave it, but this 40 would be a great candidate for a weekend driver restoration, not a DD or weekend warrior type rig, and that is my 0.02 :beer:
 
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If you like it, buy it. Do what you want with it.

Good luck, it'll be a lot of fun!
 
Pictures would be great, My wife said no FJ! makes some good points, but most can be overcome for little money. These motors can sit for a long long time and still start up, mine sat out in the rain over 7 years and I got it running real nice. For a DD driver I think the motor can fine if you get it running and it has reasonable compression. I would plan on re doing the brakes and making it a dual circuit, not much money to do that if you do it yourself. I would do all new brake lines and that is why I would switch to dual at that time. My lines on a 1962 looked and worked fine, but I had to replace the axles due to a leak and fixing those pre 1969 axles is not worth it unless you are doing a full restoration. While doing that I found my brake lines were brittle and extremely unsafe. 1969 and up axles are not hard to find and easy to swap in, but the old ones hold up well if you are not going to abuse them with real big tires, just plan on having a hard time if they do brake, but they lasted this long no reason they cannot keep lasting.

Pics would help, price would greatly depend on completeness and rust, assume the engine will not run for the price, but it likely will.
 
I know that pictures help. I don't have access to inspect it yet. I am primarily asking what key items to look for, other than the condition of the sheet metal. Almost all of the work will be done by myself and close friends.

Wife, when I said DD, I meant just to get it road worthy for now. Basically to have the option to drive it when I want, you know enjoy it.
 
My advice is to take a look around here at as many pics of similar years and compare it to the '66/'65 you are interested in. The more original it is the better off you will be if your plan is to restore it. Like others have said the ealier models are much rarer and harder to find parts for, and there is nothing worse than trying to fix a dumbass PO(s) hack jobs.

Check the condition of the wiring harness, find out some history on it if you can (i.e. number of owners, maintanence/mods done, accidents etc.), and definitely try and get the motor to turn if it will not start. I can guarantee you it will take you a bit of time to get it running since it was sitting for seven years. The gas has turned to varnish in the tank. Also REALLY check the body. Some people can be like sculpting artists with bondo. That will be where gobs of your money will go if it needs alot of repair.
 
Wife, when I said DD, I meant just to get it road worthy for now. Basically to have the option to drive it when I want, you know enjoy it.

That is very different.

Mine was found in a barn...literally. Covered in hay, and smelled like a nice old barn. It hadn't run for many many years, and the engine was stuck...it would not even turn over by hand with the plugs out. I did a double dose of Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder about 10 days apart, and let it sit. Then a huge pry bar to get it unstuck 10 days after that. I proceeded to turn it by hand for about an hour (not sure, it has been a while), poured a little gas down the carb, and she started right up first try.

My point...don't be in a rush. Don't show up with a spare battery and booster cables to try and start it...you could do more harm than good. If you are really looking for something to get back on the road, and slowly do a true restoration to, make sure everything "looks" OK. these are very simple vehicles. It should have an F135 engine, and a 3speed on the tree. It may have Warn type lock-out hubs on the front axle, but it came from the factory with drive flanges/plates, so don't freak out if it has the plates on (I'm going back to plates on my '64) Bench seat up front, no roll bar, and long jump seats in the back are stock. The '65 corrugated hard top 40 would have a stock Toyota heater under the dash, with a diagonal grill on the heater air intake on the passenger's side of the front cowl. The '65 also had the longer, two piece running boards.

Parts will be hard to find, but they are out there for a purist to find. Someone is making repro seals for the old corrugated top (see in the 25 section). These old 40s are in many ways different than the newer ones, but they are very cool, completely distinct, and becoming pretty rate in stock form, so it would be nice to see another one properly restored.

Where abouts is this 40? If you are looking for more specific info, send me a PM, and I'll see what I can do to help :beer:
 
First off, that is an early 1965, and not a 1966. Corrugated hard tops ended mid year 1965. It might be titled as a '66, but it is not a '66.

Will you elaborate on this one? I have seen 2 '66s that had corrugated tops and windshield vents. VINs and title indicate '66. Was 66 not a transition year for tops on the 40? There are '93 FZJ80s out there running around with SF rear ends and no ABS. I would not call them '92s, just transition year '93s.
 
I only 65 as the transition year. If you have more documentation to dispute this, please bring it forward :beer:
 
Wife, PM sent.

Racerdave, as I understand, the production date was probably '65. After delivery to the US, it was not titled until '66.
 
as I understand, the production date was probably '65. After delivery to the US, it was not titled until '66.


Not uncommon at all.
 
n8v2tn said:
Wife, PM sent.

Racerdave, as I understand, the production date was probably '65. After delivery to the US, it was not titled until '66.

That's what seems to have been the case with my "66" with corrugated top and windshield vent.

Sent from the monkey house.
 
As I know it after researching correct info to do my true restoration on my '64, I have learned that mid '65 is when the corrugated top model stopped being made.

In the early years, it seems that these old 40s sat for many many months at dealerships, or even on the docks, before being sold, at which time they were titled as '66s. It happened with earlier 40s as well...being titled a year later than the actual year model.

I'd love to see a documented '66 corrugated top, and if you have any such info, please send in the vin number so we can have a look, but so far, all vin numbers, frame numbers, engine numbers, from '66 corrugated top models I have encountered in my personal research, were traced back to, and all point back to corrugated top 40s being made prior to mid 1965 :beer:
 
As I know it after researching correct info to do my true restoration on my '64, I have learned that mid '65 is when the corrugated top model stopped being made.

In the early years, it seems that these old 40s sat for many many months at dealerships, or even on the docks, before being sold, at which time they were titled as '66s. It happened with earlier 40s as well...being titled a year later than the actual year model.

I'd love to see a documented '66 corrugated top, and if you have any such info, please send in the vin number so we can have a look, but so far, all vin numbers, frame numbers, engine numbers, from '66 corrugated top models I have encountered in my personal research, were traced back to, and all point back to corrugated top 40s being made prior to mid 1965 :beer:




Agreed!

It could have taken 8 - 16 months or longer to sell ,,,then title.
:p









...
 
WARNING to avoid your yard looking looking like the sellers.. (non running 40 with sitting for years) dont buy it unless you have 3 very important things. mechanical skills, time and $. if you lack any of these 3 your setting your self up for japanese art work in the yard for grass to grow around. if you like a rig to drive and tinker with everyones 35+yr old rig has plenty of that while being able to drive and enjoy.
 

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