'64 FJ40 getting 350 700r4 and Split T-case (1 Viewer)

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It's a little bit of this and a little bit of that, I suppose like many other cruisers.

I'm in the middle of quite a few projects here but I've decided to work through this one and put the "gathering" aside for now. It's a '64 frame (trying to avoid emissions) with a modified '70 body.

The frame has been stripped of all the original motor mounts and tranny mounts. The mid crossmember was carefully disected out and will most likely be replaced with an extension of the transmission mount which has been customized. The rear crossmember has been removed and will be replaced with a later style 73-84 type with the larger lights. I'm also welding 1 inch thick blocks roughly 2"x2" on top of the existing body mount tabs for a body lift.

The body has been completely stripped and had a section of the firewall replaced to accomodate a brake booster and later style steering wheel bucket. It was then etch primed and Rhino lined. It will be getting a later style soft top/ ambi door combo('75-'84 style) with hard top front doors. The 4-plus family cage and seat craddle was substituted for a factory roll cage per owners wish.

It's got a 4-bolt main with slightly shaved heads, mild cam, forged crank and pistons, slightly larger intake and exhaust valves, blah blah nothing radical. I put a reverse water pump on it to go with the serpentine set-up. All ARP hardware and Milodon pan and pump (high volume). It'll be getting the Edelbrock pro-flo EFI intake. And I'm thinking about trying out a set of those Sanderson headers on this one.

I know next to nothing about automatic transmissions, so I turned to a friend for help who directed me to a great shop here in Tucson where they put together the tranny specific for it's application. The shop also mounted the AAconverter and installed my recently rebuilt split transfer case. I can't wait to drive a 40 series with an auto tranny. This rig won't be seeing a whole lot of trail use by it's future owner and I think this drivetrain is going to be a great set-up. Other than pushing the engine as far forward as possible and still only left with a 17" rear driveshaft, the install went very smooth. I've read a lot of guys going with the 700r4 opt to lengthen their wheel base, however i didn't.

The front end is a 60 series knuckle out converion with 3:70's. And the rear is a 70 series full float that's been completely gone through.


There is all sorts of tiny little pieces here and there that have all been done tons of times that I didn't document because of it's unoriginality, like 60 series knuckles, Ron Davis radiator install, Saginaw steering, etc.

I'll be adding to this over the next several months until it's complete.
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I-di-it steering wheel, Lokar shifter and stock transfer case shifter bent to match
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ground out to fit 60 series birf or Long if needed

also Marlin seal
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greasable shackles

some plates that my buddy cut out for me. He's got this really cool CNC type machine from the 50's that simply scans an image drawn on paper and cuts with oxy - acetalyne, up to 12" thick depending on the nozzle.
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trying to retro-fit a saginaw box mount from 4x4 Labs. Luke's set-up is designed for the later style front crossmember with the bend in it
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like father like son, Rick D practicing his idea of persuasion with a BFH, and my wife being a smartie double checking my work
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I really like these serpentine systems. I have yet to pay more than $100 bucks for one, even after hot tanked
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have yet to..?

I really like these serpentine systems. I have yet to pay more than $100 bucks for one, even after hot tanked

how many have you used?
what are your engine specs and who built it?
 
Looking good!
What are you going to do for a parking brake?

After a second look I see the internal drum/disc rear brake. That is a great option for a parking brake.
 
how many have you used?

4, 3 on cruisers. They are off of mid 80's to early 90 CHEVY/GMC's. If your using heads prior to vintage you must have them drilled and tapped for these.


Local Machine shop did work including line bore etc. all the basics, it came home for the assembly.

It's got a 4-bolt main with slightly shaved heads, mild cam, forged crank and pistons, slightly larger intake and exhaust valves, blah blah nothing radical. I put a reverse water pump on it to go with the serpentine set-up. All ARP hardware and Milodon pan and pump (high volume). It'll be getting the Edelbrock pro-flo EFI intake. And I'm thinking about trying out a set of those Sanderson headers on this one.
 
Looking good!
What are you going to do for a parking brake?

After a second look I see the internal drum/disc rear brake. That is a great option for a parking brake.


Unless your going to stretch the wheelbase, a rear axle with an inclusive parking brake is a must for the 700r4 conversion, that's if you need a parking brake:rolleyes:.

I bought my first 70 series full float axle for the e-locker option, the emergency brake was a bonus. I've heard a lot of guys don't care for them because of the bellcrank corrodes leaving the e-brake inoperable. Never had that problem here in Tucson:meh:.
 
Sunday turned out to be a longer day than what I had hoped for.

Had everything except the fluids installed to proceed with the break-in on the motor. Dumped 7 quarts of Royal Purple in (loaded with zinc), added coolant and filled up the power steering pump.

Double checked everything, cranked it over and nothing. No spark. 12 volts at the coil but no distributor spark. Swapped out the ignition amplifier but still nothing.

I then pulled out the ECM (Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI for any of you who missed that) and brought it inside to run the software package that came with it. Once the software was loaded up I plugged in the ECM via usb adapter that also comes with the kit. I could not get any values at all. All I kept getting were blank pages, as if the software was not even recognizing the ECM was there.

I removed an earlier model Edelbrock Pro Flo harness and ECM from my other '64 and installed it in this one just "to see". After install, double checked everything again and bamm!, first crank it fired up immediately. Timed it in within a few degrees and proceeded with the break-in. 5 minutes into the break-in I'm getting a rapper on or around #1-3 cylinders and #6-8 cylinders.
Now I'm thinking s*** did I eat my cam cranking it without starting while trying to trouble shoot the first ECM? I kept telling myself it wasn't possible with all the assembly lube that I used.

Next step would be to pull the valve coves and see if I had a couple of loose rocker arm assemblies, and there was the culprit. I installed some "genuine Chevrolet - dealership bought aluminum valve covers" and the baffles were getting hit by both intake and exhaust on #1 and #8. After a little grinding and adding some Fel-Pro extra thick reusable gaskets I was back in business.

Way too much BS for me, but was very relieved after all was over. The engine seems strong and sounds great. I'll try and have pictures of it before I begin it's final breakdown for paint.
 

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