60 vs 80

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ejfj60 said:
the 60 is built like a tank and so far has been extremely reliable. Land Cruiser appears to be the only SUV sitting on a three quarter to one ton drive train. [... ] ...
So i guess my biggest question would be do the newer cruisers still run a heavy drivetrain. Thanks for you info.

Eric,

The 80 is also built like a tank and most would consider them extremely reliable. The 80 Series has a much more advanced drivetrain than the 60.

Specifics (related strictly to drivetrain/suspension & pros/cons for off-roading)
[/begin Beoembelishment]
1. The 80 has coil springs at all 4 corners. Most would agree this produces a superior on & off road ride.
2. The 80 (like the 60 but unlike the 100) has a solid front axle.
3. The 80 comes stock with 4.10 gears; I believe the 60 is geared higher in stock US form.
4. The 1FZ-FE engine in the 93-97 US models is a modern, 24 valve, fuel injected, high torque engine. From a purely engineering perspective, it is a far more advanced design than the prior F-series engines found in US FJ60s. For more details read the New Car Features (NCF) manual for the 96 LX450. It really is a unique and very sophisticated I6 engine.
5. The 80s are available, and most were equipped, with ABS and 4 wheel disc brakes.
6. Most 80s have full-floating rear axles.
7. Factory F&R electric lockers were an available option and a large number of the people that frequent this section on IH8MUD have selected (or retrofitted) vehicles with the locking diffs.
8. The 80 full-time 4wd is a technological marvel. It has a real, lockable, center differential, in addition to a 2-spd transfer case.
9. The 80 comes standard with 8" wide wheels; alloy or steel are available from Toyota. With no effort you can fit 33" tyres; with a little more $$ and effort you can fit 35's, and there are quite a few guys now running 37" tyres.
10. The 80 has a good auto tranny that is matched to the engine. The later models have 2nd gear start which is helpful in some off-road conditions, snow, and icy roads. Manual transmissions were not available in the US market.
11. The birfields on the 80 series are larger than the 60 series.
12. There is a proper skid plate protecting the gas tank and it has adequate recovery points.
13. The front diff on the 80 is a high-pinion diff and has reverse cut gears. This helps keep the front propeller shaft out of harm's way.

And finally, the 80 has a fully retractable antenna demonstrating that Mr T. planned for these trucks to be used off-road. :D

[/end Beoemblishment]

-B-

(Last sentence shamelessly stolen from someone.... I think it was Dougie.)
 
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And you've missed the point on both ends. Pre-arrogance and Post-ignorance.

:rolleyes:

ginericfj80 said:
You missed the boats on both ends. Pre80 and Post80, but not the right Cruiser the 80.
 
The only things I miss about my 60 in comparison with my 80 are manual transmission and more cargo room.
 
Buy an 80, keep the 60... save for 100... end of discussion :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
ChuckB said:
Buy an 80, keep the 60... save for 100... end of discussion :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


That sound like the best overall comment. I love the looks of the 60's, never driven one though. I love my 80 all the way around, best vehicle I've ever owned. Extremly capable off road, and nice highway ride even with my luggy tires.
 
-B-

Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I now have a pretty good idea what my next vehicle will be. I do have a couple more questions.

1. Is there a certain year that is better than others?

2. Do you have a rough idea how much one has to spend to buy a decent 80?
 
ejfj60 said:
1. Is there a certain year that is better than others?

2. Do you have a rough idea how much one has to spend to buy a decent 80?

Check out Slee Off Road's site:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

The 95-97s with the optional lockers are the best. I got a 94 because it was a good deal ($6500, good condition w/ 157k miles and factory lockers but no full floater or rear discs).
 
No FF but had Lockers? I thought all locker'd 80's were equipped with FF rear's...

Better? Another question open to preference. For wheeling, I wouldn't trade my 3FE'd 80 for the world, only thing I lack is lockers. For the streets, I loathe all those with the 1FZ-FE... It all depends on what you're wanting with the rig again. If you're wanting to see half a million miles but get there way slow, then the 91/92 might be a better choice. If you only wanna see around 300K, but get there faster, then the 93+ could be the better choice. If you want the most rugged US found 90, then a 92 would be your best choice. If you want cushy ride, then a 97 LX 450 or 40th Edition 80 would be better. It all depends on what you want and what you're willing to pay. I got my '91 for $5900 2 years ago with 195k on the ticker, then got my '92 for $5600 with 157k on the ticker. The '91 was worn in, and the '92 was in good condition for what you can expect from a 13 year old vehicle. Both needed a little TLC, but it was well worth it knowing how happy I am with both (well, before I got the crappy lift job on the '91). I expect to see atleast 400k out of these with the engine maintanance that was done on both, whether the paint or interior last that long, I couldn't say.
 
DirtyHarry said:
...and factory lockers but no full floater or rear discs.

Dan could tell us for certain but I am 99.9% sure there were no North American 80 series that had factory lockers and rear drums (semi-floater rear axle.) It sounds like your rig got retrofitted with one or the other.

Look inside the DS door and give us the axle code from the white sticker with the VIN on it.

ejfj60 said:
1. Is there a certain year that is better than others?

2. Do you have a rough idea how much one has to spend to buy a decent 80?

The best year is subjective. Slee recommends that you buy the newest that you can afford. Read his "newbie" guide for the differences between models. There were very minor external differences between 91-97. There was 1 major interior change in 1995. Airbags and electronically controlled tranny were also added in 1995. The 1FZ-FE engine was added in 1993.

The prices vary quite a bit based on where you live and I don't follow prices since I'm not in the market to buy another. If it were my decision, I would buy a locked FZJ80 from a non-rustbelt state; Texas, Florida, Arizona. I recently bought a '97 Taco with 118k miles. Through CarFax, I found out it came from Washington (state) and you would have thought it had spent it's entire life in the desert Southwest. Virtually no rust anywhere. In summary, travel if you need to.... but look until you find a well maintained truck from areas that don't have rust problems. I see pics from some of the trucks from the rust belt and I cringe thinking of all those rusty nuts and bolts.

Good Luck!

-B-
 
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DirtyHarry said:
factory lockers but no full floater or rear discs).

Sorry, that is incorrect.

The OEM rear diff lock REQUIRES a full floating axle, rear discs and ABS.
 
cruiserdan said:
The OEM rear diff lock REQUIRES a full floating axle.

DirtyHarry lives in Hawaii. Do you think he might have a non-US spec vehicle?

-B-
 
Don't matter.

Gotta have a full floater. No way to clip the axles and no SF shaft with longer splines.

I think perhaps the CDL switch, which is present in a non-ABS 93-94, is being confused with "diff locks"........
 
alkaline747trio said:
For wheeling, I wouldn't trade my 3FE'd 80 for the world, only thing I lack is lockers. For the streets, I loathe all those with the 1FZ-FE... It all depends on what you're wanting with the rig again. If you're wanting to see half a million miles but get there way slow, then the 91/92 might be a better choice. If you only wanna see around 300K, but get there faster, then the 93+ could be the better choice. If you want the most rugged US found 90, then a 92 would be your best choice.
I'd like to see the data supporting the assertion that a 3fe will run an extra 200k past a 1fz-fe :rolleyes: :)
 
DirtyHarry said:
Check out Slee Off Road's site:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

The 95-97s with the optional lockers are the best. I got a 94 because it was a good deal ($6500, good condition w/ 157k miles and factory lockers but no full floater or rear discs).

It is not possible to get the factory lockers without rear discs and a fullfloater.
 
I would bet good money that if the same person takes care equally as well, both 3fe and 1fz versons they would last the same. Just because the 3fe has a cast iron head does not mean it will not lose it head gasket. If taken care of and fixed properly both types of 80 will last as long as you want to keep puting in the time and money to keep them at a great state. The average 3fe at 300k is not marvel if not maintained, neither is a 1fz model at the same milage.
My experence it is an excepitonal owner that will make a cruiser last to 500k with out replacing or rebuilding the engine, tranny, t-case, a diff or two, axle rebuilds, bearing replacement, rotors, u-joints, some electronics (both have them to different levels), alternator, water pump, radiator, etc.
Nothing last to 500k miles in the gas world with out some work and money. later robbie
 
I forgot about the high pinion diff up front and updated the above post.

-B-
 
60s are better then 80s. Yeah 80s have factory lockers available and coil suspenion. But I hate the interior in them, nothing is worse then an 80 over 3hrs of hwyway time. Autos suck. And whats with a 4x4 that doesnt have round headlights? :flipoff2:
 
stinkyfj60 said:
60s are better then 80s. Yeah 80s have factory lockers available and coil suspenion. But I hate the interior in them, nothing is worse then an 80 over 3hrs of hwyway time. Autos suck. And whats with a 4x4 that doesnt have round headlights? :flipoff2:

My interior is very comfy, no problem with a 3 hour cruise. 60 round headlights = candles, 80 headlights = bright! :flipoff2:
 
Tools R Us said:
My interior is very comfy, no problem with a 3 hour cruise. 60 round headlights = candles, 80 headlights = bright! :flipoff2:

I feel sqeezed in an 80. Ugh!

I run 55/100W H4s, no candles here :flipoff2:
 
My 62 was great to drive, but I can spend manmore hours behind the wheel with less fatigue behind the wheel of the 80. It sound like you are baiting people Stinky? Have you owned a 80 then gotten rid of it? Auto's rule in hard core wheeling, manuals I agree are my preference for expeditionary style rigs, but no real choice after 88 with a land cruiser. You can have your carb, I perfer fuel injection any day of the week over a carb(and all those vaccuum lines). I just relized what your comments are about, You have 80 envy. Time to fess up and just buy one.
later robbie
 

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