60 Series Tailgate Lid “For Sale Thread”

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Finally have a couple of new things for everyone to check out, for everyone who was asking about the possibility of some brown plastic, I was able to get some photos of the plastic sample in comparison to the OE brown vinyl.
(thanks to Johnny for bringing his truck by, messy as it was:cool:)
And I have also sorted out a new latch option in between the regular ones and the super expensive compression ones.
These don't take the same mount hole, so they are not a bolt in swap, but they are cam latches, quite a secure hold, and they are lockable (with a proper tumbler lock cylinder) so everyone who has been asking about a lockable option these are it. The only down side I see is that they are not as ergonomic to pull open the lid with, the other latches have an actual pull ring to pull up the tailgate the first few inches, these you have to grip the little turn-tab. My wife still thinks they are easy enough to open, but it is a consideration. They are a shoe-in for the side panels though since gravity is not as much of an issue.
Too many words, not enough pics:
Check out all the latch options here.
IMG_5582.webp
IMG_5583.webp
IMG_5584.webp
 
How messy it is in those pics is no comparison to how bad it was after I trimmed the sleeping platform. Note to self: Do not cut 3/4 inch plywood with the circular saw inside the truck ever again. There is sawdust EVERYWHERE!!

I think the upgraded latches will be fine because when opening the lid, there will never be any weight on it.

Once again thank you for teaching me to weld Kevin!
 
What would be involved in retrofitting the new latches? What is the cost? (Same for locking and non-locking? Is the $42 for a pair?) I'm interested if they'll swap with simple tools, as I'm still leery of the plastic ones in the cold we get (not that I've had any issues so far).
 
Still happy with the black even though I have the same interior color.
Yup, I like the black as well, goes with everything. :cool:

RockDoc What would be involved in retrofitting the new latches? What is the cost? (Same for locking and non-locking? Is the $42 for a pair?) I'm interested if they'll swap with simple tools, as I'm still leery of the plastic ones in the cold we get (not that I've had any issues so far).
Yeah, other than a couple instances of shipping damage, I have not heard about, or had myself, any issues with the normal plastic latches.
I have just always wanted to have an option that would be a better hold than the simple push to close.
It remains that the push to close latches COULD come open unintentionally, and I don't like that. The two other options can not come open without user intervention.

It stinks that you are in CA, I would just say to send me your lid and I would switch latches for you. The new latches are a simple bolt in affair, but they need a different sized mount hole and two new bolt holes in the lid. For those who have the tools, the other option would be for me to mail out a router template with the latches to serve as a guide for changing the holes. That would require a router and a flush trim bearing bit.

EDIT
This is not accurate, it turns out that the hole from the push to close latches would not be incorporated into the new cam hole. Details in post #315 below.
EDIT

The stainless compression latches are still a direct bolt in swap for the regular plastic ones.
And all the prices on the web page are per pair, I should call that out. There is not a price difference between the locking or non locking (if there is it is never more than a few dollars one way or another, so the rates are averaged out to cover what it takes to get the latches to me).
:cheers:
 
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By the time my name floats to the top, I want the best latches you have, and you make the call what those are. I really like the way this looks.
 
Just checking in to say my version 1.0 lid is holding up great and working well.

Dylan
:cool: That's great Dylan.
We have the exclusive "first edition" tailgate lids in our cruisers. :D
I keep making all this new stuff, but still can't bring myself to upgrade my original lid, it still works so well.



Cruiserdrew By the time my name floats to the top, I want the best latches you have, and you make the call what those are. I really like the way this looks.
Thanks for the vote of confidence Drew.
As everything sits right now, I think the new cam latches are the best option overall.
The SS ones are super nice, but that does not justify the price to me.


Trapper50cal Hey Kevin, did you see this?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/40-55-series...e-storage.html

Think maybe TLC got "inspired" by you?
Yup, That's an Aqualu, they've been making them for a long time. Its a whole replacement tailgate, one of the nice things about having the straight lined bodies of the 40. They're quite nice, I've seen a few in person, not a fan of the latches they use though. :hillbilly:
So I doubt TLC was "inspired", but I do think that Toyota copied my idea for the new 200 series Cruiser. :p



Anyway, look at the mess you guys have got me into:
These boxes of hardware cost more than my cruiser.
IMG_5595.webp
 
Got the call err email last week- Mine is shipping next week. You know I will post some pics.
 
Kevin:

Are the cam latches, with locks, ready to go? If so, I’d like to purchase a set for my tailgate lid. (The breaker bar inside of the tailgate finally “forced” it’s way out of the tailgate lid door and broke one of the old latches on its way out!:crybaby:) Please PM me with the details and I’ll PayPal you for the locking cam latches in the next couple of days.

H.S.M.
 
Well what are you doing keeping a breaker bar in there!!!:eek:
:cool:

I've been sorting out the latches and what will work. I have the locking and non-locking cams here and have been putting them in lids.
Unfortunately a straight swap between the plastic push to close latches and the cam latches is not possible.
The hole size is different between the two latches, the hole could be made larger to accommodate the cam latches, but unfortunately as I lay out the new latches, the mount hole is actually in a different location, further into the lid, so the hole from the push to close latches would not be incorporated into the new hole.

To put a set of cam latches into an existing lid, I would need the plastic part of the lid removed and sent back to me so I can copy it and make a new lid the same size with the appropriate mount holes. I could then send the new plastic back with the new latches installed. The problem with that scenario is that the new plastic, the new latches and the shipping would cost close to what a set of the SS latches cost.
The SS latches do fit directly into the original mount holes, and are very slick, but the actual lock mechanism is very basic.

In your case Hector, I was looking at just providing you with a separate lock cylinder to mount in your lid since security was your concern, now that the latches you have are an issue, it changes the options quite a bit.

This photo should make more sense of it, the marker line is the hole for the original latch, the template has the hole for the cam latch, you can see how much further back the cam hole is.
IMG_5603.webp
 
it occurs to me that this mod would make a better vehicle safe for travel if there was some way to conceal either the whole hatch or the handles. one way I guess is to velcro the stock carpet over top, but are there any changes to the design that could make this more convincing (e.g., could you recess the hatch so it could be carpeted to fit flush?
 
Well, there are a few things that could be done to accomplish this.
However, if the lip part were recessed and covered up, the hinge would still be a giveaway for the storage compartment and the hardware would have to be integral to the frame so that it was not exposed and could be fastened from the inside of the tailgate.
Recessing the lip would be no small task, it would require quite a few different parts and different jigs than the standard ones I use. The best bet would probably be to get some industrial Velcro and stick the carpet back on over the lid.
 
Copied over in response to some questions about traction in the old tech thread:

Good timing actually.
I'm in the process of changing the plastic I use to a more stable option and the new company actually has a material that looks very promising as far as traction is concerned:
GRIP-X

I have samples on the way right now.

The rubber is just not working out, the dies are cost prohibitive and nothing sticks very well to the surface of the plastic. The patterns, durometers and thickness of the standardly available rubbers (I would need to use a standard because of the small quantities I would use)are just not a good fit to the application either.

I'm exited to see what this new plastic is like, and I have a supplier lined up that should be able to get it to me at a pretty reasonable price.
:cheers:
 

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