60 series steering done and thanks to all that helped! and free ujoints

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It is also threaded into and through the frame. It will have ram assist soon. Those that have done it this way have not reported any ripping out of the box (at least going back 4 or so years in the research.
 
I'm about ready to weld & bolt things down but have a couple questions about this mod.

First, does it matter if the relay rod (I can't figure out the difference between that term and drag link), or whatever connects the pitman arm to the tie rod, is not on the same lateral plane as the tie rod? Like slickrock's pics, the positioning of the steering box on the frame of my truck, using the FJ60 pitman arm, is going to position that (driver's) side of the relay rod a few inches higher than the plane of the tie rod. Any problem with that?

Second, I was totally lost with the explanation of using a combination of FJ40 & FJ60 parts to make that link between the pitman arm & the tie rod.
That's enough confusion for one post I think. :)
 
El Cazador said:
I'm about ready to weld & bolt things down but have a couple questions about this mod.

First, does it matter if the relay rod (I can't figure out the difference between that term and drag link), or whatever connects the pitman arm to the tie rod, is not on the same lateral plane as the tie rod? Like slickrock's pics, the positioning of the steering box on the frame of my truck, using the FJ60 pitman arm, is going to position that (driver's) side of the relay rod a few inches higher than the plane of the tie rod. Any problem with that?

Second, I was totally lost with the explanation of using a combination of FJ40 & FJ60 parts to make that link between the pitman arm & the tie rod.
That's enough confusion for one post I think. :)
Click to expand...

OK. in order from tie rod to steering wheel

1) fj80 tie rod.
2) fj40 drag link end welded into the tie rod. (this is the part that attached to the stock 40 pitman)
3) fj60 pitman
4) fj 60 steering box
5) fj60 collapsible steering column cut sleeved and welded to 3/4" round stock with a u-joint at the end
6) stock steering column cut in front of fire wall with other end of the 3/4" round stock Ujoint attached.
7) Hydraulic block supporting the existing stock steering column.

Make sense?
 
Some of the shots in the TT article are my 40. I taco'd the tie rod the 1st time out. Since the article I have locked the front, added a kit hy-steer and gone from 35's to 37's. The only time I have any issues is going down hill in 4-Low. I am currently adding a hydro ram to hopefully remedy that situation. I am very glad I had my power steering done the FJ60 way. I hope it works just as well for you!
 
Vey cool with the article. I am also going to do hydro assist when I get some extra cash to get te parts. I am running 35s (need to fit into my garage) and fully locked. That would take a bunch of pressure off the box.

Mind psoting some pictures of your hi-steer set up. Is it the smae as a Saginaw or what did you do differently?
 
The Hy-steer is the kit from Marlin Crawler, with the flat pitman arm from SkyMFG. I think the there should be no difference in the arms for saginaw or FJ60. The only issue I have is at full stuff, the tie rod barely rubs the frame, just enough to scrape the paint on the rod. I wish I could take credit for the article, but that was all Mark Whatley.
 
if you buy the box mount (from a member or two here) there is no welding for a mini trck steering.
 
Could I see some completed pics. What did you do for your shock mount.
 
I can take some more pictures for you tonight. Since I already have pictures up, can you be more specific in what you want to see?

I have front flipped springs, it is an issue for the driver's side shock mount with 60 series steering. For the passenger side, I used a Ford shock tower and moved my bump stop under the axle.

For the Driver's side, a Ford tower would not fit. It might if I did some major cutting on it, but a club member CentralValleyCrawlers-Home Page needed it for his build so I gave it to him. I ultimately was forced to use some extra round stock I had and a long bolt through the top to mount the shock eye onto. I believe this is the same solution used in the Towyota Trails article that I used for reference in my steering swap. I think it was 1" or maybe 1.25 x .120. The tube is a bit longer than the Ford mount but the location of the bolt for mounting the shock to the tube is the exact same height as the passenger Ford mounted shock.
 
Got to thinking, to no real purpose, if the bolts that go through the mounting plate are secured by nuts inside the frame, which is very doable given the location at that spot on the frame, does the plate have to be as thick as 1/2", or even 3/4"?
 
The plate isn't just for support, it is used to space the box off the frame to clear the radiator support. You should be able to use a thinner plate or no plate if you modify/move the radiator support. This is a compromise between radiator clearance and shock tower clearance with the steering shaft.
 
Thanks, Bret, forgot about the rad. support. I got this truck pretty much in parts and with the support not being there to notice I'd forgotten it's eventually gonna be there. Oh, and I meant 3/8", not 3/4. Onward & upward.
 
i'm in the process of doing this on my bj42.. would anyone be interested in a thread about it?

I'm using 75 steering arms, drag link, tie rod and intermediate shaft, 55 steering shaft, 80 cushion joint, 62 steering box, 60 steering dampener and chassis bracket.

a few pix here: 60 Series Steering upgrade
of the install in progress..

I just need to bolt the box and shorten the intermediate shaft, and mount the dampener.
 
First post updated with rough parts list and installation process
 
brisveganbj42 said:
i'm in the process of doing this on my bj42.. would anyone be interested in a thread about it?

I'm using 75 steering arms, drag link, tie rod and intermediate shaft, 55 steering shaft, 80 cushion joint, 62 steering box, 60 steering dampener and chassis bracket.

a few pix here: 60 Series Steering upgrade
of the install in progress..

I just need to bolt the box and shorten the intermediate shaft, and mount the dampener.
Click to expand...

Did you bolt your steering box directly to the frame without additional backing? Do you think the frame is strong enough to hold the box in place? How did you bolt it down? Did you go all the way through the frame and bolt it that way?
 
slickrock said:
Did you bolt your steering box directly to the frame without additional backing? Do you think the frame is strong enough to hold the box in place? How did you bolt it down? Did you go all the way through the frame and bolt it that way?
Click to expand...

I used 6mm plate on the inside of the chassis rail.. used crush tubes with the m12 high tensile bolts and lock nuts. drilled thru the chassis and thru the 6mm plate, fastened and torqued to 71nm same as the steering arms on the knuckles.

its been a great upgrade so far.. easy and no issues to date!

complete build thread is here: Outer Limits 4x4 Board :: View topic - 60series steering upgrade on the 40
 
I have also fitted a 60 Series PS to my RHD 40, but I put the mounting plate on the inside of the chassis
I used a 1/2" plate that was drilled and tapped.
I also had to make new shock mount towers as the ridge on the inside of the standard item interfered with the steering shaft

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