60 series steering done and thanks to all that helped! and free ujoints

It took about 2 six hour days to install the 60 series steering in my Cruiser. I wanted to say thanks for everyone that helped put up with my remedial questions and a special thanks to those that donated thier extra parts.

I followed the "Trails" article for using my stock drag link and pitman. Grainger has a great hydrolic block (found out that they are not pillow blocks-those are like a U with a bearing in the center) for 24 bucks shipped and next day drop off that saved my backside. All in all, it drive straight and true, no more sloppy steering and my pinky can steer me.

My only bummer was having to cut off my brand new ford shock tower that I just put on since I flippped my front springs. I am going to have to use round stock to mount my shocks since there is only about 1.5" of room next to the box to keep my shock at good angle.

I'll post a few pics (thing dramatic since it has been posted many time) tomorrw.
Thanks again for everyones help, especially AL (ALZ TOY) for the free ujoints. I have a few left over if anyone needs some.

I have one similiar to the steering shaft coupling found in a fj40. It is half the coupling with a ujoint and one coupling without a ujoint that can be welded to 3/4" round stock for a ne shaft.

Thanks again, Dan

Up Date: Rough sketch of installing process and parts list:
Parts list for 60 series steering (anyone sees I forgot something let me know)
For the Steering box
1. 60 series box with pitman. (you can sue your stock pitman if you cut it at the base-where attaches to steering box) and flip the ball upside down. I ran mine that way for a few days until I decided to go with a 60 series pitman. It will attach directly to your stock 40 drag link end.
2. 40 series drag link end (this will be cut and welded into 80 series tie rod).
3. 80 series tie rod and end. This will attach to the left hand tie rod end
a.Note: you can just use your stock FJ40 tie rod, but the 80 is beefier. Just weld your drag link end into the tie rod. Make sure you do some bottom welds for strength and / or sleeve the welded area.
4. ¾ solid round stock (about 3’)
5. Hydraulic block –some call it a pillow block but that is incorrect (Grainger) or TPI.com #TPS73
6.60 series center shaft (U-joint off of steering box and has the crushable/collapsible sleeve.
7.Another U-joint to attach to the end of the center shaft and the 3/4” round stock that welds to the cut steering column)
8.½ to ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
9.4 grade 8 7/16 X 20 bolts
10.25/64 tap

Rough directions:
1.position box so the draglink end is parallel to the tie rod
2.box should be as vertical as possible / pitman as flat as possible
3.clamp ½ or ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
4.Weld plate on
5.drill holes and tap through plate and frame (may do before welding plate to frame) it would be good to use longer bolts that you could go all the way through the frame and put a nut on them. I did not.
6.Use original drag link and tie rod, weld to 80 series tie rod or stock tie rod.

Rough directions for steering column:
1.at box attach u-joint and
2.Cut 40 column close to firewall with enough room go through hydraulic block attached to stock column backing plate.
3.attach u-joint to back of box and 60 series center shaft
4.Weld on an extension (with round stock) so that the next u-joint will be at a good angle to the steering column exiting the fire wall.
5.Mount u-joint to extension and original steering column
a.(you will have a u-joint coming off the box, center shaft, welded ¾ stock, u-joint existing column that was cut going through hydraulic block)

Steering pump
1.2F alternator bracket
2.2F steering pump mount
3.mini truck or 60 series steering pump with accompanied hoses
4.new belts
5.lots of write-ups on this

This is up to you but straight forward. Alternator is on the top passenger side, pump is on lower driver’s side. Hose should reach to the box if using minitruck steering hoses. I do no know the length of 60 series hoses.
 
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Here are some pics from different stages. Think it turned out pretty good. Thanks again to everyone's help. 4 bolts were used for the final mounting. Each hole is tapped through the mounting plate and the frame along with lock washers and red lock-tight. The mounting plate is 1/2" thick. I think it will be strong enough since the bolts are screwed into it and the frame.

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looks good! I did the FJ60 steering on my FJ45 and its worth every bit of effort. did you make two pitman arms into one? or cut the FJ40 one and flip the tapered spline section?
 
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For those that need every bit of room by the steering shaft there are two different ones available, one is the "larger" style like pictured above and the other is a solid bar
Steering shaft.JPG
 
I cut and flipped my 40s pitman. I noticed I have a little spot that I need to fill on the pitman . . . tomorrows project. I do have the 60's pitman and may swap to that since it has a bit more drop. But, driving around today and having no slop, waundeing, jerking, or rut following was a nice thing. After a while I am going to tap the box and run hydro assist. But that is a ways out.
 
For those that need every bit of room by the steering shaft there are two different ones available, one is the "larger" style like pictured above and the other is a solid bar

Bret, I picked up 4 foot o 3/4" round stock not knowing how much I would need once it is hooked up. I only used about 7". It is welded from the end of the collapsable shaft and the ujoint at the hydrolic block.

DO you have a picture of the "smaller" size you are talking about?
 
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The previous picture has the shaft I was referring to. The slip portion is part of the u-joint at the PS box, where the joint/shaft you used has the slip running the length of the steering shaft.
steer shft.JPG
 
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Looks good Dan. Night and day difference in the way it drives w/power steering, I got to driving mine ALOT more after the swap. Kind'a like before- :crybaby: , and now-:steer: , gas prices be dammed. Al
 
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slickrock---The trails article that you mentioned, regarding the pitman arm mod. What month was that in?
I am looking to do the same swap on my ride.
Thankyou
 
update, I found out that the 60 series pitman arm end link is the exact same as the fj40 drag link end. I can use a 60 series pitman and take apart it's end. It is the exact type of ball end as my 40's and will fit into the drag link end of my 40 just like stock.

FJota, ifyou want my modified 40 pitman, let me know.
 
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Could you post a pic of the finished product for me?
I have a complete BJ60 for parts, so I am going to try the 60 pitman arm setup first. Thanks for the offer on the 40 arm.
I don't seem to have the article but will work it out when I get to that stage of my project.
 
I will take as may pictures as I can tonight and post them up tomorrow. THe only item I am not happy about (this is just being picky) is the drag link end at the pitman is not adjustable. I took my factory drag link end and inserted it into a modified 80 series drag link, welded it in around where they joined and made few rosset(sp?) welds to secure it. So it only adjusts at the passenger side. This isn't a problem since I made sure I welded it in at the correct length and my steering is fine. If I wanted to adjust it, I would have to disconnect the end at the passenger side and rotate it in or out to adjust. Not a big deal, but something that I had to do to amek things work.

As for saftey and all around impressions, I think I am good to go.
 
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I may be missing something, but are the four mounting bolts only threaded into the 1/2" plate of mild steel you welded to the frame? If thats all that the bolts thread into (from the picture of the tap) seems like not enough for the forces transfered through that steering box. Maybe you've added steel nuts from inside the frame rails, if not you probably should.

Otherwise looks like a good setup. I'd like to do a similar setup on mine some day:beer:.
 

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