60 Series Intercooler (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

hey brian... when you replaced your IP... did you have a shop put it in? or did you do it? i was going to have mine bench tested, but the procedure to remove it is pretty involved.

had my injectors tested... they said all 6 of them were "pissers". so... installed new injectors today. quieter. smoother. haven't fully tested it to see if EGT's are lower. Should be.
 
Going to relocate where I read my boost hopefully next week, I will let you all know what the difference is.
Crusty I sent you a message.
Charles I will get my reading off a pipe just before the intake (have to look at the best place to put a fitting, unless you have an idea) then see what the boost is from there and compare before and after.
I wonder what the difference might be?
thanks,
john
 
Last edited:
John, I'll bet you'll find that you're losing a couple of pounds boost through the intercooler. Relocating the sensor to the intake will keep the wastegate closed longer to get the boost back up at 8 lbs, or wherever you have it set, at the intake manifold.
 
gifu said:
hey brian... when you replaced your IP... did you have a shop put it in? or did you do it? i was going to have mine bench tested, but the procedure to remove it is pretty involved.

Do you have a Cummins or Onan manual?

It's actually pretty easy, but time consuming. You'll need a dial indicator guage setup to work in the back of the pump, but otherwise it's a two banana job.

Before I pull it, I'd go get a guage if you don't have one, pull the plug that goes in the back of the pump, (in the middle of the fuel lines) and get an adapter made so you can screw the dial indicator guage into the back of the pump. You'll need to be able to set it to zero.

I don't have a pump or manual handy, but basically, you put the pump on the block with the engine at or before TDC, make sure that the pump is at cylinder #1, tighten the nut on the timing gear, rotate the engine, move the pump so it's lift plunger is at the highest point, and then you tighten it up. Put the lines back in, bleed it out, start it up and go. a 17mm crows foot wrench makes tightening things up easier.

Local shop wanted $500 to take out the old one and put in the new (I called after I installed it just for s***s and giggles).

I won't be back in Cheyenne until the middle of May if you'd like to borrow my compression tester as well.
 
there is no real effect on the turbo but if you turn up the boost then that compresses the air, compressed air equals heat which equals less air volum getting into the cylinder which defeats the purpose at the same time that heated air raises the egts upon exiting.
with an intercooler you can raise the boost higher because the tintercooler cools the compressed air back down.
HTHs
cheers
Wayne
 
ok, so the new injectors are in. It runs much smoother and less noise. I was hoping to see less EGT's, but i'm still seeing 1200 and maybe creeping up. Granted, this is on a long hill, pedal down, doing 80MPH. Not normally how I drive, but I wanted to see what the upper limits are. THe boost is still not hitting 15 (the wastegate is reading at the intake now)... getting to 12.5 or so. It used to spike to 15PSI. Weird. Not sure what else I can do...

there is one tight bend in the intercooler piping. And I suppose I could use a bigger air filter/intake tube.

Any ideas?
 
jzilla said:
Charles I don't have a sensor that I know of, I guess I will just take a reading near the intake.

Sensor and reading is the same thing in this case.
 
gifu said:
ok, so the new injectors are in. It runs much smoother and less noise. I was hoping to see less EGT's, but i'm still seeing 1200 and maybe creeping up. Granted, this is on a long hill, pedal down, doing 80MPH. Not normally how I drive, but I wanted to see what the upper limits are. THe boost is still not hitting 15 (the wastegate is reading at the intake now)... getting to 12.5 or so. It used to spike to 15PSI. Weird. Not sure what else I can do...

there is one tight bend in the intercooler piping. And I suppose I could use a bigger air filter/intake tube.

Any ideas?

I don't think the Saab intercooler is known for being the more efficient intercooler out there. Did you ever turn up your fuel? How about boost?

PS- I never go that fast because the EGT's spike.
Edit: this is from J-L on Pirate when I asked about the volvo intercooler:

Just the intercooler won't do a thing unless you are already overfueling. It will cool down the intake charge, but the whoole point of intercooling is denser air permitting you to run higher fuel volume with proper combustion. Once you intercool you can crank up the fueling on the VE pump easily (I presume that's what you have on your 3.4)

The 740 intercooler is a little small, if I were you I'd start looking for something huge IE Powerstroke, Cummins, etc. I'm using a 740 intercooler on my 1.6VW and it's just right.
 
have not turned up my fuel.

and as far as the grainger valve... well, i'm not hitting the 15PSI that it takes to open my stock blow-off valve anyway... so... uh... yeah.
 
Well I looked at larger intercoolers, You know how big the cummins one is lol, it is huge! My temps dropped so I'm happy. I just have to check the boost now after the cooler then I might make an adjustment.
there is some interesting info here.
http://www.dieselauto.co.za/Intercool.html
 
Last edited:
**jzilla**

thanks, got your message. sent one back, check your email.

this is a good thread...AFAIK the 740, 760, and 240 series volvo intercoolers are all the same... mostly. a few mounting changes, but all the same size intercooler.

i have heard many say that this intercooler works well on the 3b, and it fits on a 60 quite nicely. i have yet to see one here in victoria. now there seems to be some talk that this unit is too small.

i'm not looking to build a race car, it is a diesel wagon after all. but.... the ease of an install, reliability, and cheap and easy to find parts seems to me better than a difference of a few horses. you know what i mean?

but if the gains are sooooo small... whats the f@#&ing point. right.

something about "polishing a turd" lol....

from those of you running this set up... any thoughts, regrets, plans for a bigger intercooler, happy?

crusty
 
when i was talking with the gent in Holland he mentioned you must match the flow of the intercooler to the turbo, too big and the turbo can not build up enough boost (not move enough air) and too small and it is a waste fo effort because the air can not get cooled enough...
bigger is not better
cheers
 
thats what i'm talking about......

i have heard that the 740/240 volvo intercooler is well matched to the axt turbo. seems to me that it would work REALLY well with a volvo turbo, but that's just a guess.

and the volvo turbo works well on the 3b.

crusty
 
See I have heard lots of mixed things about intercoolers, some say go small others say go large. I consider my Volvo intercooler to be "large" and I believe I have some turbo lag (I am looking forward to driving a non intercooled one). Anyway, I have not been able to push dangerous EGT's on the highway yet even with my pump turned up close to the max most people have recommended, even uphill going up big grades in the altitude here. I guess... ... that is probably due to the intercooler.. I was actually at dangerous EGT's with when I was NA with the 2H, the turbo actually cooled down things alot but if I wanted to I could easily reach those temps...
 
Guys check that website I put up a few posts back it's good.
My main concern was lowering temps, that is what it did, so I'm happy.
That is a 740 intercooler I have, easy to install and fits well, and cheap!. Just had to trim off some excess rusty metal, so if your truck is not rusty you might not like that.
 
**jzilla**

i'm having tech probs with my email, so i'll post here too. you gave me some good ideas, thanks.

and yes, crusty is rusty... so cutting will be just fine.

crusty
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom