60 series Full Float axle question (1 Viewer)

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Alright, now we are getting somewhere. @beno, thanks for the photos and VERY clear explanation and taking the time to do this. Huge help. I am not having any issues, was just curious and now understand that it's not possible. I had assumed incorrectly that the spindle can be bolted to an SF axle - that's where my question originally came from.

@Willard thanks for the input, sounds like this is basically what my options are. I think one usually starts off with trying to be clever and save a bit but eventually comes to realize that to get what you want you need to be realistic. Just look at my truck....paint, engine rebuild, interior etc etc.

@Cruiserdrew you are right, the extra brakes would be nice, I just didn't want a wider track and the headache of the e brake but might look into this. Again, the purpose was to settle the compatibility of the parts in my head.

thanks and goodnight all.

NP. Happy to help. And yes, you WANT a FF. :)
 
60 Series FF parts availability is still good.

The SF to FF conversions I've seen are either a weld-in bung in the SF bearing area then bolting on a front spindle. This will probably result in non-parallel wheel rotation planes unless you are set up with a large, rigid gig that can be accurately set to hundreths of a mm.

Or it is a bolt on adapter which bolts onto the brake backing plate mounts. These mounts were designed to hold the brake shoes against rotational forces. They were not designed for axial bending moments and will result in a weaker axle housing than the stock SF.

The best way to get the load capability of FF is to install either a 60 or 80 Series FF. I bought a 60 FF for a 62 build and wish I had gone for the 80 Series. It's great mod, especially when combined with the FROR Tundra brake mod on the front axle. This causes both the front and rear axles to be wider by about 2.5". If you don't mind running non-OEM wheels its easy to get 4.5" BS 16 or 17" wheels. This keeps your original 'look' and wheel placement inside the wheel well.

If we were closer I'd try to sell you my 60 FF but, as you mention, shipping is a cost killer and you have access to FF's in CA much closer to you.

Good luck.
 
I've read that the 80 FF rear adds 2.5" total width. I have not measured first hand.

I have measured the FROR mod as adding 3.25" total width (1.625 per side). That's +/- an 1/8". I'd need to pull a wheel to get closer tolerances.
 
Gotcha. Actually seems like that'd make finding wheels that fit easier since you need a more common backspacing.
 
Looks good! Did you add spacers or anything to the front?

Spacers to get the width right, but have these waiting on some down time:


A36BF606-B370-4943-9E6E-96F88FE91BC5.jpeg
 
I've read that the 80 FF rear adds 2.5" total width. I have not measured first hand.

I have measured the FROR mod as adding 3.25" total width (1.625 per side). That's +/- an 1/8". I'd need to pull a wheel to get closer tolerances.

80 rear end adds about 2” on each side. With FROR brake mod it’s right, you want the front about an inch wider on each side then the rear.
 
I also swapped in a FF 60 series rear end under my FJ62. I got a used unit from Canada. All the drum brake parts are the same between the SF and FF. The housings are definitely different and it would not be easy to convert a SF housing to a FF I think. Seals and bearings are readily available and shared across other platforms. If you have your heart set on a FF, either keep hunting classifieds, especially in Canada where they are more common, or go the 80 series route.
I converted a FJ60 rear SF axle to FF with and weld on adapter and used my front wheel hubs from my 78 FJ40 and was not very difficult at all.
 
Hi all,

I've been researching on adding a fully floating axle on my 62 this weekend and read a ton of threads etc, but am unable to find a definitive answer on a couple of questions. It appears that most of the mods out there focus on changing to the adapter plates and using front-end hubs and thus disc brakes, often adding either a caliper that allows for a parking brake (non-Toyota) or adding a driveshaft brake. There is some information that suggests that IF you wanted to keep the same drum brake set up (and thus the stock parking brake function and location) you could simply change the axles, hubs and associated bearings and seals from an FF axle (like Aussie ones) and change your existing North American 60 series axle to an FF axle.

I've seen FF axles go for thousands of $, but it seems to me that the parts that are different are not that difficult to obtain if the whole axle housing is exactly the same. For example, partsouq lists both the hubs, seals, bearings and such as available, unfortunately, the axle shafts are not - however custom ones are not that hard to get.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience on converting stock 60 series axles to FF but keeping the drum brake setup?

Konrad
I converted a FJ60 SS to FF using FROR weld on flanges and used the hubs/splindles from the front axle of my FJ40. Used Land Cruiser calipers and slotted rotors. Had new perches welded on so that it would match FJ40 springs and frame. Drive flanges and double splined axle shafts.
 
I am considering upgrading my stock 60 C-Clip rear axle to a 80 series full floater. Couple of novice questions please.

1) can I install & use my current 60 3rd member into the 80 axle? (I’ve got 3.73’s AND ARB air lockers in front & rear.)

2) is it likely my current aftermarket 16 inch wheels will work with the wider 80 set up. (My 16 in wheels are 20 year old Stockton Wheels.) Have run them on my 40 & currently on my 60. On both front & rear axles.

If you have any additional info/advice it will help my in my decision process.
 
I am considering upgrading my stock 60 C-Clip rear axle to a 80 series full floater. Couple of novice questions please.

1) can I install & use my current 60 3rd member into the 80 axle? (I’ve got 3.73’s AND ARB air lockers in front & rear.)

2) is it likely my current aftermarket 16 inch wheels will work with the wider 80 set up. (My 16 in wheels are 20 year old Stockton Wheels.) Have run them on my 40 & currently on my 60. On both front & rear axles.

If you have any additional info/advice it will help my in my decision process.

If you use a non-locked 80 series axle you can use your current 60 series diff in the axle housing. Rear disc brakes will be an upgrade, except adjusting the parking brake shoes are not as easy as with the 60 series.

You'll have a choice to run the rear hubs with grease, the OEM way, or eliminate the inner axle seal and run gear oil in the wheel bearings. I'm running gear oil in two rear 80 series FF axle without issue.

Wheel bearings are the same for both front and rear hubs.

Do it.
 
Good information @Godwin .

When you did yours, what did you do regarding wheels? Did the wheels you were using work out ok with the wider 80 axle? As well as with the full floater sticking out in the center. I don’t know for a fact…but I assume that if my current wheel fits over the front axle…it will also fit over the full float rear??
 
Good information @Godwin .

When you did yours, what did you do regarding wheels? Did the wheels you were using work out ok with the wider 80 axle? As well as with the full floater sticking out in the center. I don’t know for a fact…but I assume that if my current wheel fits over the front axle…it will also fit over the full float rear??

I'm running 16" 70 series wheels which work without spacers. If your 16" wheels fit on the front I guess they should fit on the rear.

Rear FF will be wider that stock 60 series front and you may want to run spacers to even out the width, or do a Tundra brake mod.
 

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