Correct, you could go with 4:1 tcase gears, which lower high range by about 10% as well, or the 3:1 tcase gears which only lower the low range gears.
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I wish 4.1 tcase gears were available for the 80 series t case
i have a 1hdt and h55 with 4.11. it’s a great system until i want to tow something and have to stay out of 5th. then i have to do 90km/hr otherwise it feels like i’m over reving it. there are times i wish i had 3.7s for that reason. it would still have tons of grunt in 1st gear
AussieHJCruza
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What size tyres? Healthy 1HDT will do 3k rpm all day quite happily
33 inch. i guess with 4:11 i’m still at about 2500 rpm at 60mph. it sure feels like it reving hard at that range though. i’ve got 600000km on the clock though so i do try to be gentle with it. we’re getting a rebuild this winter sometime though so maybe i’ll feel more secure after
AussieHJCruza
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I did 10 hour trips towing with my HDJ80, 3k rpm plus continually which was about 20 psi boost with the gturbo. No issues.
how heavy a load were you towing? i’ve got a 3500 lb boat
AussieHJCruza
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Generally 5000 lbs+ I would have thought.
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- #29
Sorry for the late posting and update- the truck was going to SEMA and I was in a bit of a crunch to get thinks running to get there @Tennessee80 .
@mudgudgeon thanks for the help with the air in the lines. I traced the air in the lines all the way back to the fuel tank (bummer because I was quite tired of having to drop the fuel tank over and over again) and I was getting a TON of air in at the top of the tank. I had a friend weld a small section of 1/2" stainless tubing at the top of the tank (see image) and the weld appeared to blow through the tubing. Got that fixed, but I believe Im still getting a little bit of air in through there. Now the truck is running and running fairly well. Based on my exhaust, it seems that its running pretty rich. Fuel pump timing? Any other suggestions?
Ill also post a picture of the truck on here. Quite pleased with out it turned out! Im leaking some oil as well- I replaced the oil pan and turbo oiler, but up next ill need to do the crank seal and oil pump seal as it appears Im leaking a good amount from the front. I also picked up some BMW M3 sport seats last week for cheap that are immaculate condition, so I'll crack into those and send some updates on that! I also plan on doing a full writeup on this at some point...
@mudgudgeon thanks for the help with the air in the lines. I traced the air in the lines all the way back to the fuel tank (bummer because I was quite tired of having to drop the fuel tank over and over again) and I was getting a TON of air in at the top of the tank. I had a friend weld a small section of 1/2" stainless tubing at the top of the tank (see image) and the weld appeared to blow through the tubing. Got that fixed, but I believe Im still getting a little bit of air in through there. Now the truck is running and running fairly well. Based on my exhaust, it seems that its running pretty rich. Fuel pump timing? Any other suggestions?
Ill also post a picture of the truck on here. Quite pleased with out it turned out! Im leaking some oil as well- I replaced the oil pan and turbo oiler, but up next ill need to do the crank seal and oil pump seal as it appears Im leaking a good amount from the front. I also picked up some BMW M3 sport seats last week for cheap that are immaculate condition, so I'll crack into those and send some updates on that! I also plan on doing a full writeup on this at some point...
AussieHJCruza
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A 1HD-### really has no need for a secondary fuel filter. The tolerances are much more forgiving than a commonrail engine. IMHO run factory filters or something like ( Fuel Adapter System ) Suitable for Toyota Landcruiser 75 series 4.2 L 1HZ - https://www.berrimadiesel.com/adaptor-system-toyota-lc-75-series-4.2-1hz and change them regularly.
yeah just use a good quality fuel filter and change them regularly and you’ll be good.
Give us more info
Is the exhaust smokey?
What colour smoke?
When?
All the time?
Under hard acceleration?
As it comes of idle?
Is the exhaust smelly?
Smell of fuel, or oil?
What boost numbers are you seeing?
What is peak EGT? (If you push it hard under load. Eg. Up a long hill from close to idle, foot to the floor, all the way to 4000ish RPM?)
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- #34
Exhaust is quite smokey
It’ll smoke a ton for a few minutes when cold starting. I’m also in Colorado so cold starting is at 30 degrees or so. Smoke at cold start is mainly white and smells strongly of fuel.
After it’s warmed up it’s less smokey, but still smells like fuel. I MAY be seeing some blue smoke, but it’s a bit difficult to see. It’s smoking consistently whether idling for longer time or driving.
I don’t have a boost gauge hooked up yet (on the list of things to do here very soon), but for egts, they don’t run terribly high- they will float at about 1200-1250 when I’m pushing it hard (up mountain passes or at high speeds). Of course when it hits this point I let off the gas, but it hasn’t been difficult to keep them low.
As of right now my plan of action is to eliminate the oil leaks and fully fix the air in the fuel lines. I should be able to look at potential oil usage and rule out air getting into the system. The fuel smell is very potent right now, so that would definitely be the place to start before looking at burning oil.
I’ll also link a video of startup and giving it gas for input on color and smoke amount
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- #35
This is great to know. Thanks for the input. This might be in the weed a bit, but do you have a minimum micro amount for filters on these engines?
i start mine (albeit with a webasto preheater on) in -40 and have very little smoke. even -20C i can start it on the first crank or two with no webasto and have very little smoke. i agree make sure your fuel system is air tight. i might be wrong but when mine over fuels when playing with the fuel screws it gets sooty smoke not white smoke. so i wonder if you’re still getting air. your compression numbers look good so its not likely coolant that you’re seeing make white smoke. keep working the fuel system and i bet you’ll find it
