60 series 1hdt swap help (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 28, 2021
Threads
3
Messages
23
Location
Fort Collins Colorado
Hi everyone,

Not a frequent poster here, but a very frequent visitor. Currently doing a 1hdt swap on my 86 fj60. Here’s some details of the engine before I get to my issue:

Got the engine from a user on mud who shipped it over to the states from another user (both are frequent and reputable users). The user stateside found another donor car for cheaper so never pulled the engine out of the crate before I bought it. This being said, it’s likely been since roughly January that the engine has been started.

Compression numbers: 450,440,440,440,450,450

Everything is installed and the truck turned over quickly 5 or so times. Ever after letting it run, I’m getting quite a bit of white smoke (very shaky as well). I decided to give it some throttle, and it sputtered and died on me. I’m having a difficult time getting it to fire up again and I’m still getting a ton of white smoke. Does it need a tune? Am I missing something?

This is my first 1hd and diesel, so any help would be much appreciated. Ill attach a video as well
 
White smoke is incomplete combustion of the fuel being injected.

With your scenario, I'd almost guarantee you have air in the fuel system.
Do you have a hand primer pump/fuel filter assembly? If you pump it, is the pump firm, or need a few pumps before it feels firm?

You can confirm if there's air in the fuel by running a clear hose from the filter assembly to the injection pump. If there's bubbles, there's your problem.

Heaps of threads in here about this problem.
 
When it’s done that’s going to be a heck of a truck. Running a 5 speed?
 
White smoke is incomplete combustion of the fuel being injected.

With your scenario, I'd almost guarantee you have air in the fuel system.
Do you have a hand primer pump/fuel filter assembly? If you pump it, is the pump firm, or need a few pumps before it feels firm?

You can confirm if there's air in the fuel by running a clear hose from the filter assembly to the injection pump. If there's bubbles, there's your problem.

Heaps of threads in here about this problem.
Thanks for the help, I do have a primer pump. When pumping it, it will get firm after some pumps, then I will hear some bubbling in the fuel tank, and it will return to being soft. Is it pumping the air bubbles into the tank, or does this mean I’m getting air into the lines elsewhere?
 
When it’s done that’s going to be a heck of a truck. Running a 5 speed?
Thanks man! And yes, a new tcase and h55 underneath
4E062093-C616-410C-893A-0CE1BCAB8412.jpeg
 
What did you coat the bottom with. So nice and new looking. Which side does exhaust run? You have the fuel lines
on the LH side, usual exhaust route for 2F 2H and 12HT. Some run an outboard to frame exhaust for the LR aux tank.
Curious as to why the fuel filter is so far along to the tank? I'd only be worried about debris damage. But sure easy
to change out.
 
What did you coat the bottom with. So nice and new looking. Which side does exhaust run? You have the fuel lines
on the LH side, usual exhaust route for 2F 2H and 12HT. Some run an outboard to frame exhaust for the LR aux tank.
Curious as to why the fuel filter is so far along to the tank? I'd only be worried about debris damage. But sure easy
to change out.
I coated the frame and underbelly with a rust converter and sealer from master coat (didn’t have any rust but it’s recommended to put down before paint). Then I put raptor-liner on the underbelly and a Mastercoat AG111 on the frame. I did quite a bit of research and determined raptor-liner is probably the best bed liner out there and makes a slight sound dampener.

My old fuel lines on the 2F ran on the passenger side and the exhaust on the driver side, and unfortunately they are swapped on the 1hdt. I had to route a new 1/2” inlet hardline anyway and wanted to keep the exhaust on the opposite side of the fuel lines.

I put the small fuel filter in the rear for accessibility, but it’s definitely a temporary spot. I have a spot tucked into the body and frame a few feet backward, but I will have to tap new holes in the frame first or figure out another mounting solution. This spot worked great for now because it already had tapped holes that lined up perfectly. Here’s a picture of the secondary fuel filter and primer pump that I located in the engine bay. I’ll be swapping the wix filter with an actually reliable filter, once I can locate one that fits.

FA1CB778-129D-4843-BB03-83EF334DA2D0.jpeg
 
Nice work! Just finished stabbing a 1HZ in my 62 and loving it but wasnt without similar issues getting it going..... make sure all fuel fittings are nice and tight and I had to add a check valve between the filter and tank to prevent backflow. Once you prime it the pump should stay pretty firm and you should not be able to hear bubbles swishing around.
 
I have read other people having issues when running a secondary fuel filter.
 
Run a clear hose from where ever is possible to the IP. This gives you an instant visual of air in the system.
Otherwise use a container of fuel close as possible to the IP with clear hose.
IF the problem clears up then work ypur way back towards the tank.
Also, does the glow system work?
A working glow system really smooths out cold starts until the engine warms up.
Even one bad glow plug will allow smoke and the shakes.
 
Anyone have any advice on the best differential gear setup for a 1HD-T fj60 with 35 inch tires?
 
Anyone have any advice on the best differential gear setup for a 1HD-T fj60 with 35 inch tires?

What transmission?

I had 35s on my hdj80 with 4.1 diff gears and H151F 5speed manual. My hd-t was tuned up for a bit more power.

H151F has is fairly high first gear. It was fine on the street, but in steep stuff offroad, 1st gear was a bit too high.

If you have an auto, it's a whole different story
 
What transmission?

I had 35s on my hdj80 with 4.1 diff gears and H151F 5speed manual. My hd-t was tuned up for a bit more power.

H151F has is fairly high first gear. It was fine on the street, but in steep stuff offroad, 1st gear was a bit too high.

If you have an auto, it's a whole different story
If I did a swap it would be in my 60 with H55 transmission. I know I would need to reheat from my stock 3.70 but just wondering what’s the good all around formula (subjective of course) Cheers
 
Looks like H55F has pretty low 1st and 2nd gear ratios. I always figured H150F ratios would be better suited to a 1HD-T being used offroad.
If i had an 80 with 1HD-T now, i reckon 4.1 diff gears, H150F and low range reduction gears in the transfer case would give you the best of all worlds.
Maybe 4.56 diff gears if you spend a lot of time offroad

H55F ratios
1st....4.843:1
2nd....2.619:1
3rd....1.516:1
4th....1.000:1
5th....0.845:1
Rev....4.843:1

H151F - 80 series with 1hd-t
1st 4.081:1,
2nd 2.294:1,
3rd 1.49:1,
4th 1:1,
5th .881:1,
reverse 4.313:1

H150F - 80 series with 1hz
1st 4.529:1,
2nd 2.464:1,
3rd 1.49:1,
4th 1:1,
5th .881:1,
reverse 4.313:1
 
Anyone have any advice on the best differential gear setup for a 1HD-T fj60 with 35 inch tires?
Lots of good info here:

He has stock diff gears, H55 and 4:1 reduction tcase gears mated to a 1Hz. Really good combo and lines up with what @mudgudgeon posted above. I have a 1Hz turbo with 4.11 diffs and 4:1 tcase reduction gears with 35" tires and I'm considering getting 3.76 diffs to get my highway RPMs lower.
 
Lots of good info here:

He has stock diff gears, H55 and 4:1 reduction tcase gears mated to a 1Hz. Really good combo and lines up with what @mudgudgeon posted above. I have a 1Hz turbo with 4.11 diffs and 4:1 tcase reduction gears with 35" tires and I'm considering getting 3.76 diffs to get my highway RPMs lower.
So leaving my 3.70 gears alone and just manipulating the low range with a transfer case gear reduction....
 

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