Builds 60 guy does a 100 series LC... (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Well a little bit of a bummer... Looks like I may be taking the truck back to my shop that did the remote start install.
I noticed two things since I got it on Thursday, have a ticket in to Compustar to see if this is something that may be a known issue or maybe the techs installed something improperly.

Note: this stuff did not happen when the system was just the remote start and did not have the locks working with the the CompuStar keyfob.

1. When the system is used, whether it is via the Drone Mobile or the keyfob, to lock/unlock the doors the trip monitor is reset to 0.0
2. The theft lights (DRL blinking for lock/unlock) no longer work.
3. OEM keyfob no longer lock/unlock doors (this may be part of the system take over by the CompuStar).
4. When unlocking, all doors unlock on first click (no more hitting unlock twice for all doors)

Other than that, the system has been great. Starter decided to not give me grief this morning, was able to have the dogs wake me up to go to the park, start the truck from bed via the app while I was getting ready and unlock the truck at the same time. Walked out and truck was warming up and doors were unlocked. Very nice seeing as it was all of 30* when we were at the park.

 

[gregnash]

LOL... all I can do is laugh at this...

Alita is either possessed or there are electrical gremlins that are giving me a run for my money.


If you listen closely you can hear the locks fire after I shut the ignition off but nothing happens. Almost like the system is attempting to hunt for the position of the locks? When this starts happening and locks decide they don't want to play nice, then they will not work. Can't unlock/lock all doors from one door, randomly sets off the alarm. Hate to say it, having the convenience of the remote start and the extended range of the system has been nice but this is getting ridiculous. Got to call the shop tomorrow and get it in to them to figure out what the hell is happening. Emailed CompuStar and their response was kinda what I expected "Not something we can diagnose over email. Please return to the shop have them diagnose, they should have our tech support line and can troubleshoot further if needed."

 

[gregnash]

Alright talked to the installer yesterday and Alita has a date with the doctor to get this figured out. Seriously annoying and have just started leaving the cruiser unlocked. Another oddity that showed up is that when I start driving I normally leave the doors unlocked (as that is what the system does) but about 5 minutes into driving the doors lock themselves. After that you can randomly hear (haven't figured out the timeline) the locks attempt to lock again.

I did remember that this weekend there was a firmware update to the DRONE system, so talking with the installer they did say that they have seen times where that has happened and the system needed to be reprogrammed. Hoping that is all it is. We shall see next week.

Do continue on from @ClassyJalopy 's thread on his spindle replacement, my upper ball joint boots are completely torn and I purchased new OEM ball joint boots in hopes that will hold things off for a while until I have funding available to upgrade to some Trail Tailor UCAs. This is what my boots look like, I did do the "prybar" test on the wheel and did not see any significant play so I am hoping that they are good for now and the reboot will be good enough until I have some fun money.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

The wife will be gone for a few days the week of the 9th so that gives me some garage time and a spare vehicle during that time so HOPEFULLY I can get the front lower diff bushing replaced and these boots replaced during this time.

 

[gregnash]

Another oddity, and something I really kinda expected (embracing the suck) is that while I do a lot of in town driving (say 80/20 on avg. for city/hwy) I am averaging 10mpg. Does this seem normal? Mind you I am lifted with 1.5" lift and larger, Load E rated tires (285/75R16). Was expecting more like 11 or 12 mpg avg around town but wondering if it is just a combination of things. Still plan to replace spark plugs, coil boots, etc. in the future but do not experience any drag or anything that would indicate something like brakes dragging.

 

[gregnash]

Woohoo!!! I have been watching a "cheap" set of OEM FSM books on ebay since just before Christmas, seen the price go up and down but nothing that I was ready to spend as both volumes (1&2) seem to be going for $100+. This guy put up today that he was accepting offers after seeing at New Years it went up for $90 for the set and didn't sell as a special and then has been sitting at $100 since.

Figured I would throw it out the for $65 and just got acceptance!! Since I purchased the 1998 Electrical Wiring Diagnostics (EWD) book so that my installer could cross reference when working on the remote start install, figured these two would be a good addition. Now have all three volumes, 1998 specific, for less than $100!

 

[ajs]

Another oddity, and something I really kinda expected (embracing the suck) is that while I do a lot of in town driving (say 80/20 on avg. for city/hwy) I am averaging 10mpg. Does this seem normal? Mind you I am lifted with 1.5" lift and larger, Load E rated tires (285/75R16). Was expecting more like 11 or 12 mpg avg around town...

Is that 10 mpg corrected for tire size?

I get just over 11 when I’m doing mostly city driving (285/75R16, C rated, with 1.5” lift, ‘99). All highway it’s 16-17.

 

[changingground]

Another oddity, and something I really kinda expected (embracing the suck) is that while I do a lot of in town driving (say 80/20 on avg. for city/hwy) I am averaging 10mpg. Does this seem normal? Mind you I am lifted with 1.5" lift and larger, Load E rated tires (285/75R16). Was expecting more like 11 or 12 mpg avg around town but wondering if it is just a combination of things. Still plan to replace spark plugs, coil boots, etc. in the future but do not experience any drag or anything that would indicate something like brakes dragging.

If you’re still warming up your vehicle before going to work (like you were with BeBe) you are likely seeing a significant hit on mileage. Just for a tankful, try warming no longer than a minute, or even not at all, and keep scrupulous track of fuel consumption during that time. I’ll bet you see a significant improvement.

 

[gregnash]

Is that 10 mpg corrected for tire size?

I get just over 11 when I’m doing mostly city driving (285/75R16, C rated, with 1.5” lift, ‘99). All highway it’s 16-17.

Actually I haven't so that makes a bit more sense now. Keep forgetting about that. I am running the exact same setup as you except my tires are E rated.

If you’re still warming up your vehicle before going to work (like you were with BeBe) you are likely seeing a significant hit on mileage. Just for a tankful, try warming no longer than a minute, or even not at all, and keep scrupulous track of fuel consumption during that time. I’ll bet you see a significant improvement.

Not quite as long as BeBe, but yes I am still warming it up in the morning, maybe 3-5 mins max. When I get to a new tank of gas I will try and just so used to the engine being cold and needing to warm up otherwise it would run like garbage. LOL... first world carb problems!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Actually I haven't so that makes a bit more sense now. Keep forgetting about that. I am running the exact same setup as you except my tires are E rated.



Not quite as long as BeBe, but yes I am still warming it up in the morning, maybe 3-5 mins max. When I get to a new tank of gas I will try and just so used to the engine being cold and needing to warm up otherwise it would run like garbage. LOL... first world carb problems!

I probably have the worst in town mileage of all 100s... I live less than a mile from the shop. 5 stop signs and a hard punch/acceleration up to 50 mph and hard brake to turn onto the shop road in about a 600' run of road. Andrea comments the other day when she went to fill up ELE that I had gotten a whopping 6.2mpg on my last tank.. I was surprised it was that good. HA!

 

[gregnash]

Yeah I guess I was hoping that I would be getting close to 12 average around town. I think that there are still some things that need to be handled that will help increase the avg. I have found that just leaving the transmission in O/D has increased the in town mileage a bit, and I have been filling up with mid-grade instead of the cheap stuff. Mid-grade has a bit better "seat of the pants" feel to it than the cheap stuff. Never got/felt anything weird on regular, just didn't feel like she ran quite as well, and around here price difference is <$0.10/gallon usually, so not a huge difference in cost when filling up the tank.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Yeah I guess I was hoping that I would be getting close to 12 average around town. I think that there are still some things that need to be handled that will help increase the avg. I have found that just leaving the transmission in O/D has increased the in town mileage a bit, and I have been filling up with mid-grade instead of the cheap stuff. Mid-grade has a bit better "seat of the pants" feel to it than the cheap stuff. Never got/felt anything weird on regular, just didn't feel like she ran quite as well, and around here price difference is <$0.10/gallon usually, so not a huge difference in cost when filling up the tank.

Even if Andrea drives the 100 for a tank of fuel she's getting around 10.8 to 11.3.

 

[gregnash]

Even if Andrea drives the 100 for a tank of fuel she's getting around 10.8 to 11.3.

Ok well that makes me feel better!!! If it were my wife driving though, I would be lucky to see 6-8mpg !!!! So looks like 10-11 avg. is normal with all things considered.

 

[gregnash]

New fun.... So does this sound like either the idler pulley or tensioner bearing going? Noticed it a while back but seems semi intermittent. Tried spraying some lube on the bearings and did not hear it quiet but not sure I got at them appropriately and don't have a long enough screwdriver to try and listen.



When I started hearing this I figured I would replace at least the idler pulley as that is easiest to reach and then was looking through the records and it has been a number of years since the serpentine belt was done (have seen in my records but can't remember how long it was) figured I would replace that, so while I am in there might as well replace the tensioner pulley as well.
Photo shows that the exterior of the belt doesn't seem overly warn, hell you can still clearly read the information on the exterior of the belt. I have not pulled it off to inspect the interior as of yet.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[txnight]

With the serpentine belt loose you can spin the idler pulley to see how it feels. One that has gone bad should be obvious.

Will need to remove the fan and fan clutch in order to get an impact gun in there to remove it if bad.

The bearing on the tensioner rarely goes bad but i suppose its possible.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so culprit is like just the idler pulley. Check...
Will at that to the list of stuff to do soon. Right now main priority it getting everything together for front axles.

 

[gregnash]

Well Alita goes to see the doctor on Tuesday next week. Last couple days her starter has given me grief on EVERY start-up. Today was no exception other than it took longer than normal to get her to finally kick over. So went to a local shop that has done work for us before (not a stealership) and has great reviews since they opened (and usually top 3 shops in our county annual Best of Carson City voting). Drove over and talked with them and they can get me in on Tuesday, requested that they do a Denso reman'd and OE parts/stuff (so OE manifold gaskets).

Hopefully this does not turn into a larger ordeal (knock on wood) but rather stops this garbage. The starter is definitely on the way out as now not only will it just click but at times it will also try and start her only to not kick it over enough to get it to full start (so kinda a quick catch and then dies). Also going back to the remote start installer as I am still dealing with issues with the fob actually controlling the door locks properly. Anytime the truck is locked for more than 30 seconds, if you try to unlock (either inside vehicle or outside) manually it triggers the alarm. When the fob IS working, it will trigger the alarm. I have cleaned and used good lock lube in all door locks, inspected the door lock sensor rings and nothing is out of the ordinary or seems to be causing issue. This really all started once they tried hijacking the door lock system. If this doesn't fix it then I am debating on having them just keep the remote start and go back to normal OEM keyfob control but even that doesn't work anymore. Trying to unlock the rear hatch doesn't work at all anymore. Key turns in they cylinder, no real feeling like something is broken or hanging up, but doesn't seem to do anything (which I think is correct as it is electronically linked through the system to the lock on the upper lift gate).

Really hoping that I don't have to go through and replace all the door lock sensors and/or cylinders!

 

[ElHefe]

Greg, I know you’re still chasing electrical gremlins, but any updates on replacing that upper cushion on the front side diff mount? Were the internals on the bushing toast or just the cushion?

 

[gregnash]

Greg, I know you’re still chasing electrical gremlins, but any updates on replacing that upper cushion on the front side diff mount? Were the internals on the bushing toast or just the cushion?

Plan is to do that this next week while the wife is out of town. A while back I dropped that portion of the bracket an pulled the top cushion to replace with the FEBEST version (the little puck looking one on the top) and it was a few mm shorter (more compressed) than the new one. I went with OEM replacement piece for the lower portion as the price difference (that I could find) between the FEBEST and getting the cushion from Toyota was within a few dollars.

Hoping to get that diff bushing handled on Sunday/Monday along with the boots for the upper ball joints. While I am there I can hopefully get a better feel as to how the ball joints are doing and determine if I need to R&R upper and lower in the near future along with check the TREs. Then Tuesday she goes to the doc for the new starter.

I did grab a cheap HF pnuematic impact/hammer for this job specifically to get that bushing out. Everyone that I have talked with said that unless there was significant rust or the bushing was seized in there the air hammer makes quick work of getting it out, just have to be patient.

 

[gregnash]

Shop called and Alita pulled the whole "mechanic doesn't know what's going on" bit. Buddy said that all the stuff I had written down, the could only replicate one thing. Ended up going back through all wires and checking everything was good and tight crimps and then went through and reprogrammed the unit and remotes. Showed up about 30 mins later to pick it up, use the CompuStar fob to open doors and it sets off the alarm!! LOL!!!
Of course buddy isn't there so gonna have to call him on Monday. Found that while previously the stock remote did not work once they installed the door lock function, it now works again AND DOESN'T set off the alarm!!!

So going back to my YotaMD fob for the time being and will do my own system/use case troubleshooting.
Use cases so far...
- Aftermarket Keyfob used to unlock doors triggers alarm
- Manually unlocking door from outside with key triggers alarm
- Manually unlocking door from INSIDE more than 15 seconds after engine has been shut-off and key out of ignition triggers alarm

This is leading me to believe that it may have something to do with drivers door, but haven't tested other doors yet to see.

 

[gregnash]

Dropped wife off at the airport EARLY this morning then helped a buddy at his house. Got home around 1:30pm and started working on the upper ball joint boot replacement. Good news is that the uppers are in good shape, still pretty tight and not easily moving all over so looks like I caught the boot destruction in time.
New boots with p/n...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Here is what the old ones looked like...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Found that the easiest way to get the spring on the boot and up on the ball joint is to load it on the boot while it is off. Load it onto the ball joint and work the edge around ensuring the spring stays on the boot until it pops all around.


Now on to the front lower diff... wish me luck!!