Builds 60 guy does a 100 series LC... (1 Viewer)
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #62
Got under the truck again tonight and greased the driveshafts.
Slip yokes each took at least a dozen pumps from the grease gun.
U-Joints at the diffs both took a handful of pumps before old grease started coming out. Unfortunately, I have dark colored grease so was somewhat hard to tell what was new and what was old.
However, zerks at the u-joints at the center diff would not hold onto the grease gun head. Not sure why, but went through and cleaned all of them with a new toothbrush and pick to ensure they were good and clean. The head on the gun would just not seat. Anyone know if those two u-joints have a different grease zerk?
Slip yokes each took at least a dozen pumps from the grease gun.
U-Joints at the diffs both took a handful of pumps before old grease started coming out. Unfortunately, I have dark colored grease so was somewhat hard to tell what was new and what was old.
However, zerks at the u-joints at the center diff would not hold onto the grease gun head. Not sure why, but went through and cleaned all of them with a new toothbrush and pick to ensure they were good and clean. The head on the gun would just not seat. Anyone know if those two u-joints have a different grease zerk?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #63
Well that was quick... just spent about $500 on "stuff" for the baselining and that is not including the new keys I got off ebay or the oil change that will happen this weekend.
So next week or two will include;
- Installation of Wits' End Heater T kit (thanks for providing this @NLXTACY with a one stop shop for all the right items instead of hunting down part numbers)
- Installation of new upper cushion for front diff (41653-60010) to help with clunk. This is just a stop gap until I can R&R all the bushings and arms relevant to the front diff.
- New smaller quick disconnect grease gun head to better reach zerks for driveshafts (couldn't get to center diff ones for whatever reason)
- New brake pads front and rear (PO told me fronts were less than 20% and rears were about 50% so figured do them all)
- Oil change with YZZD3 Toyota filter and will use Kirkland 5w30 (supposedly good middle of the road oil blended by Warren Distribution) also have about a quart of Risolene leftover from BeBe so will throw that in to the crankcase to help clean things out.
- Diff oil change. Purchased appropriate crush washers and have 80w90 gear oil left over from my FJ60.
- Cut and program new keys for truck. PO gave me one key fob key that was not programmed (transponder) to the truck and then I bought two valet style keys (no fob) from eBay that fit (4C transponder) that will get programmed and cut. Local locksmith said it should be a pretty easy job and they charge a flat $65 rate for cutting and programming customer provided keys.
Going to be a busy next couple weeks. Then will be on to getting stuff to R&R my hub flanges as that is the next major thing on the chopping block outside of the Heater Ts and front Diff Clunk (which hub flanges are a part of).
So next week or two will include;
- Installation of Wits' End Heater T kit (thanks for providing this @NLXTACY with a one stop shop for all the right items instead of hunting down part numbers)
- Installation of new upper cushion for front diff (41653-60010) to help with clunk. This is just a stop gap until I can R&R all the bushings and arms relevant to the front diff.
- New smaller quick disconnect grease gun head to better reach zerks for driveshafts (couldn't get to center diff ones for whatever reason)
- New brake pads front and rear (PO told me fronts were less than 20% and rears were about 50% so figured do them all)
- Oil change with YZZD3 Toyota filter and will use Kirkland 5w30 (supposedly good middle of the road oil blended by Warren Distribution) also have about a quart of Risolene leftover from BeBe so will throw that in to the crankcase to help clean things out.
- Diff oil change. Purchased appropriate crush washers and have 80w90 gear oil left over from my FJ60.
- Cut and program new keys for truck. PO gave me one key fob key that was not programmed (transponder) to the truck and then I bought two valet style keys (no fob) from eBay that fit (4C transponder) that will get programmed and cut. Local locksmith said it should be a pretty easy job and they charge a flat $65 rate for cutting and programming customer provided keys.
Going to be a busy next couple weeks. Then will be on to getting stuff to R&R my hub flanges as that is the next major thing on the chopping block outside of the Heater Ts and front Diff Clunk (which hub flanges are a part of).
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #64
Ok I now have two spare keys programmed and cut! Yeah! Pretty quick job, locksmith had to pull out all the stops for programming the transponders and still had issues getting the last one to work, so not 100% successful getting the 3 spares taken care of but now at least I have backups. So that is one part done!!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #67
So changed the oil today, original stuff still had a good 2k miles before it needed change and coming out was dark but not overly bad. Used a Toyota YZZD3 filter with the Kirkland brand 5w30 full synthetic (blended by Warren Distribution) with about a quart of Rislone that I had left from BeBe.
Dumb question but is there no "Maint Req" light on the early 100s? I went through the service reminder section in the booklet and didn't see anything.
Dumb question but is there no "Maint Req" light on the early 100s? I went through the service reminder section in the booklet and didn't see anything.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
No oil change light on early 100s
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #69
Happened to be looking at the documentation I have for the CV Axles and the lift. Cross referencing part numbers from Cruiser Outfitters site, it looks like I have a Light/Medium 1.5" lift on the truck, all the part numbers from the site correspond with what I have on the documentation.
With regards to the CV Axles, it looks like both were replaced by 4WheelParts in 2018, PS was done in June and then DS was done in July. Axles were only charged at $105/ea. so I can pretty much guarantee they are aftermarket and definitely not OEM. With the groaning noise that I am getting under load I had originally thought it was more related to the dry driveshafts and the need for new upper ball joints (along with the front diff bushing being shot) but in the diff bushing thread one of the guys mentioned that the aftermarkets tend to be drier and make noise so I am starting to lean towards that. Especially since I have a small lift, it may exacerbate the groaning.
Since the other items need to be handled regardless and I do not believe that the axles are leaking at this point I will handle that stuff first (hub flanges, ball joints, diff bushings) then if it still persists after that then I will look at the axles.
With regards to the CV Axles, it looks like both were replaced by 4WheelParts in 2018, PS was done in June and then DS was done in July. Axles were only charged at $105/ea. so I can pretty much guarantee they are aftermarket and definitely not OEM. With the groaning noise that I am getting under load I had originally thought it was more related to the dry driveshafts and the need for new upper ball joints (along with the front diff bushing being shot) but in the diff bushing thread one of the guys mentioned that the aftermarkets tend to be drier and make noise so I am starting to lean towards that. Especially since I have a small lift, it may exacerbate the groaning.
Since the other items need to be handled regardless and I do not believe that the axles are leaking at this point I will handle that stuff first (hub flanges, ball joints, diff bushings) then if it still persists after that then I will look at the axles.
Yep that groaning noise is your non OEM CVs. They will groan if you have any sort of lift in the front. They aren't rzeppa 6 ball CVs like the OEM.
Got grease into all of my u-joints using a regular head on a full-sized HF gun with flexible hose. May have helped a lot that the truck was on a lift.
It probably helped that you were able to rotate the driveshafts fully i would think. It was really the rear of the front driveshaft i couldnt get fully connected. And i was laying under the truck working in the street. I got impatient pretty quick. Good to know not impossible though
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #73
See the grease gun that I have does have a flexible hose but for some reason the head just wouldn't do anything. It would kinda click on but could easily be pulled off (not fully seating). Got the needle head coming in the mail so I will use that when it gets here.
As for the CV Axles, yeah that is what my gut is telling me. I will handle all the other items and when I have some extra money laying around I will use that to replace with the CVJ axles. Slightly cheaper than OEM and the boots will hold up better for the lift angles.
As for the CV Axles, yeah that is what my gut is telling me. I will handle all the other items and when I have some extra money laying around I will use that to replace with the CVJ axles. Slightly cheaper than OEM and the boots will hold up better for the lift angles.
Kofoed
SILVER Star
If you are going deep, with ball joint replacement and wheel bearings, you can add tie rod ends and also lower control arm bushings. The bushings are a hassle to remove (are there is a bushing in the frame too that needs R & R). One thing to consider is toyota is (was?) selling new lowers with one bushing and the lower ball joint installed. Once you figure a la cart pricing and the install hassle, it is worth the $$$. I seem to recollect a new LCA was in the $250-300 range. Doing it over, I would spend the $$$
I had a problem with the vehicle wandering on the highway. I adjusted wheel bearings, steering rack bushings, all this stuff, and each item helped a little (finally setting caster to 4 degrees with SPC UCA) and it drives great.
I had a problem with the vehicle wandering on the highway. I adjusted wheel bearings, steering rack bushings, all this stuff, and each item helped a little (finally setting caster to 4 degrees with SPC UCA) and it drives great.
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This may sound silly but it is something that took me a while to get comfortable with.
Do you know that you can adjust the tension/tighten the grease gun coupler? It can be loose enough that it won't stay on a zirk at all, tightened such that you wished you never messed with it, or somewhere nicely in the middle where it stays on while pumping but pulls right off when you are done.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #76
Yeah I am debating between doing full new lower/upper control arms or just the ball joints. If I go that route then what’s the benefit of going OEM for upper vs. aftermarket (SPC, Trail Tailor, Nitro, etc.). I know that lowers really are only OEM option, especially seeing that I only have a 1.5” light/medium lift.
As for the grease gun adjustment, yeah I do realize that and have mine set at medium-ish tension. The rear most of the front driveshaft just wouldn’t hold all the way for whatever reason, not that it was not tight enough as it did fine with the others without issue.
As for the grease gun adjustment, yeah I do realize that and have mine set at medium-ish tension. The rear most of the front driveshaft just wouldn’t hold all the way for whatever reason, not that it was not tight enough as it did fine with the others without issue.
Kofoed
SILVER Star
The aftermarket upper controls arm are good if you want to go with a substantial lift. The arms allow the factory caster spec to be met, and the supplied ball joint allows more deflection (better articulation is matched with an afermarket shock allowing more travel)
The older SPC arms had a s***ty ball joint that was recalled and now IIRC the bushings have been changed as they wear out quickly. I had the old s*** which I had to replace and get another alignment
The older SPC arms had a s***ty ball joint that was recalled and now IIRC the bushings have been changed as they wear out quickly. I had the old s*** which I had to replace and get another alignment
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #78
Don't really plan on going any taller than she already is. At the 1.5" lift that came with the truck, I find it plenty tall for what I do. I don't see all that much dirt, let alone so much so that I would need huge amounts of articulation or anything of the sort. So sounds like the aftermarket arms would really just be for sh%*s and giggles. Really at $120ish for the full set of ball joints from Cruiser Outfitters, I am not missing out on much other than time alone with my truck (which I like as it let's me learn the truck more).
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #79
Tonight did a couple of things, knocking a few more off the baseline list.
- Removed the antenna motor from fender in order to remove remaining parts of mast. Took a bit to get everything out but finally was able to get it out and apart. Looks like most of the mast was still in there but just short enough that it could not come out when extending the antenna via the button. Put everything back together and got the new mast in with the help of the wife. So nice to have a working antenna now!! (now watch, I'm gonna rip it off on something.) Sorry no pics but used Beginners Luck Garage's video on YouTube on how to get everything out.
- Then moved on to removal and replacement of the upper cushion the front diff. Not much of a help, was just checking to see if it would make a difference. The clunk from R-D is reduced slight but still there, definitely the hub flanges making the noise. Also while I was working on that I found that both CV axles are weeping from the diff side.
Top is new, bottom is old.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
- Then decided to pull one spark plug to see how things were looking. Pulled the number 2 plug and coil pack. Plug looks to be fairly new, coil pack and o-ring look like they could use to be replaced. No codes, seepage or anything, plug was definitely in there good. Going to have to purchase a special plug socket as mine does not hold onto the extension strong enough to actually seat and come out with the socket.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
- Found this little guy to be cracked on both ends. Last vacuum line on the air piece that attaches to throttle body. Anyone know size of vacuum line so I can grab another???
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
- Removed the antenna motor from fender in order to remove remaining parts of mast. Took a bit to get everything out but finally was able to get it out and apart. Looks like most of the mast was still in there but just short enough that it could not come out when extending the antenna via the button. Put everything back together and got the new mast in with the help of the wife. So nice to have a working antenna now!! (now watch, I'm gonna rip it off on something.) Sorry no pics but used Beginners Luck Garage's video on YouTube on how to get everything out.
- Then moved on to removal and replacement of the upper cushion the front diff. Not much of a help, was just checking to see if it would make a difference. The clunk from R-D is reduced slight but still there, definitely the hub flanges making the noise. Also while I was working on that I found that both CV axles are weeping from the diff side.
Top is new, bottom is old.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr- Then decided to pull one spark plug to see how things were looking. Pulled the number 2 plug and coil pack. Plug looks to be fairly new, coil pack and o-ring look like they could use to be replaced. No codes, seepage or anything, plug was definitely in there good. Going to have to purchase a special plug socket as mine does not hold onto the extension strong enough to actually seat and come out with the socket.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrUntitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr- Found this little guy to be cracked on both ends. Last vacuum line on the air piece that attaches to throttle body. Anyone know size of vacuum line so I can grab another???
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
