Build 60 guy does a 100 series LC...

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Ball joints... ok that makes sense. Seems like it is better just to replace the entire ball joint vs. the boot, unless you are in a pinch. My lower is pretty crusty but didnt look cracked from what I could see. Probably safe to replace both.
 
hoser said:
Do an oil change and use a Toyota filter and then check oil pressure.

For idle, Clean MAF sensor with special cleaner (not carb cleaner) and clean throttle body/butterfly valve area.
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Plan to do the oil change soon here. Should be a couple thousand left on the current one but figured I need to baseline. Will go through the FSM for the interval reset.

As for the MAF cleaning, anything specific that is better than the others?
 
Thanks. I will do that in the near future here. The slightly rougher than normal idle doesn't throw a code or anything. Got to play with the BlueDriver to figure out what is where and how to get all the different readings. Just took it for a quick jaunt around town to see if I could get any codes to pop up and the only one was an "unrecognized key" which is me trying to start and program the spare that the PO gave me (completely virgin key apparently). I saw the programming procedure in the FAQs so I will have to go through that and program this spare as a spare master.
 
If you decide to replace your ball joints, I have a box of 4 brand new 555 ball joints from cruiser outfitters that I never ended up using because I replaced the full control arms. Shoot me a pm if you'd be interested.
 
So the baseline maintenance list is growing pretty quickly...
- Ball Joints (upper and lower) are on the list now for both sides
- Heater Ts have slight pink seepage so those are going to be first thing done (along with all hoses for good measure)
- Switch for mirrors doesn't work on driver side unless held in a very specific manner (84870-60030) so that will be done eventually
- If ball joints are being done might as well get in deep and do wheel bearings
- Have the a-typical R-D clunk and slight clunk while accelerating from stop. Looks like hub flanges will need to be replaced ASAP (43241-60030)
- Diff bushings (need to get under truck to confirm this is part of R-D clunk)
- Temp gauge is being skittish after recently cleaning battery posts
- Starter may need to be replaced (knock on wood, no issues in a few days especially after cleaning battery posts)
- Issue with passenger butt warmer heating element that will need to be addressed (HI doesnt work, LO is hot but only on outer side)
- Various pieces rattling about due to improper replacement after last being removed.
- Diff drop for good measure with lift (believe I only have a 1.5" lift so not hugely necessary)
- Programming of transponder for spare key (can't get system to go into programming mode for whatever reason) and acquiring another spare as well
- Normal baseline items; oil change, air filter change, cabin filter installation, diff oil change, grease all joints
- Clean MAF, throttle body, etc.
- Check brake fluid
- Check PS fluid
- Grease all window tracks (drivers little slow coming back up)
- Replace drivers side lock actuator (slow response during programming of key fob)

Got to love when random things like this pop-up. Oh well, part of owning a 20yr old truck I guess.

So looks like next paycheck I will be dumping a bunch on the Heater Ts and oil change.
Thus far I believe these are all the part numbers I need for the heater Ts and hoses/clamps to replace everything for good measure.
Passenger side:
- 87245-6A190
- 87245-6A180
- 99556-20200
clamps x6 - 96136-52101

Driver side:
- 87245-6A220
- 87245-6A210
- 87245-6A200
clamps x6 - 96136-52101

Heater T's x2 - either aluminum or brass 5/8" t's instead of OEM plastic (for longevity)
 
Tony_Farson said:
Your oil pressure looks low... Is that normal in a 100 series? My 92 Bronco sits strong on the high side of 50/50 and and my 40 was similar right up until I blew the head gasket.
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Tony, I think I have something wonky going on. Up until the other day it never moved from the mid-line and only does that now when I am sitting and idling. Otherwise it is dead in the middle. Coolant Temp gauge is acting weird now too where it will go from not working to suddenly deciding it is going to SLOWLY creep up to the mid line.
 
gregnash said:
...
- Programming of transponder for spare key (can't get system to go into programming mode for whatever reason) and acquiring another spare as well
...
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Your list looks a lot like mine. Seller did* a number of items - and I'm a little way along with the rest. Need to review/verify everything because a few details don't check out quite as described.

As to getting into programming mode, you may not be using (or may not have) a key that is programmed as master. See if any of your keys will lock and unlock the glove box; any that don't are at least not cut as masters and you might logically suspect they aren't programmed as masters either.

If you insert a key in the ignition and the security light goes out immediately it is programmed as a master, if there is a delay of a couple of seconds the key is programmed for valet use.

If you have no master you can buy a "virginized" ECU, pay to have your ECU flashed, attempt to reflash the ECU yourself, or live with it for a while.

I am currently employing option 4, prepared to try 3, and ready to follow through with 1 or 2.
 
oil pressure is fine. at idle can be as low as JUST above the L hash mark. the owners manual spells out the acceptable ranges. temp gauge sounds odd. should stay just about in the middle and not move until overheating.

you probably have some burnt through wires in the seat for the heating element. if you can find where they burnt, you can resolder them. worked for me. my drivers was totally dead and managed to get the H back. i laid out a potential fix in one of @Pyrenees threads about seat heaters with dorman parts to adapt it to the factory system. never installed it but im pretty sure it would have worked.
 
Yeah don't quite know what is going on with the temp gauge. Acted normal the rest of the day after lunch, maybe I just never noticed or something? Who knows.

Went out and replaced the headlight bulb as they seemed super dim and not aimed properly. Only came to find out that A) they were cheap bulbs so not bright in the first place, and B.) they were no installed properly. Seeing as they are keyed a specific way one as just jammed in with only one key grabbing the others weren't even installed fully. So now she has some nice bright Phillips Xtravision bulbs until I eventually upgrade to a Retro Fit kit for LED or HID bulbs. Gotta get her baselined first thought.

After that was done I replaced the blown hood struts and slow liftgate struts. Now everything holds properly.

Then I went through and did a hub flange test for R-D-R clunk like @2001LC has done on his ME MY Youtube channel. Here are the results.

Drivers Side:


Passenger Side:


Looks like time for some new hub flanges for me probably along with diff bushings and other ancillary items. Will put her up on jacks this weekend when I have some more light and pull the skid plates and check the diff bushings to confirm. I have played with the driveshafts and they have no play and seem nice and tight. So other than a quick greasing I should be good. Will test the bearings in the front when I have them off the ground as well. Hoping that I don't have to dive into that quite yet.

Quick question, I have seen a tool that goes over then end of the axle before you put the grease cap on to grease everything up nicely but can't remember where I saw said tool. Anyone have a link?
 
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@cmw Yes I did verify that my one key is a master. Light goes out as soon as it is inserted. Other thread I started @Mauser said that key memory may be full and thus I may need to delete all other keys first. This makes sense as I was going through the service history records the other day when I was home sick I do remember seeing a couple invoices for key programming over the years.

Will try the pedal dance tomorrow to delete all other keys than the master and then see if I can program the spare via the pedal dance.
 
gregnash said:
Yeah don't quite know what is going on with the temp gauge. Acted normal the rest of the day after lunch, maybe I just never noticed or something? Who knows.

Went out and replaced the headlight bulb as they seemed super dim and not aimed properly. Only came to find out that A) they were cheap bulbs so not bright in the first place, and B.) they were no installed properly. Seeing as they are keyed a specific way one as just jammed in with only one key grabbing the others weren't even installed fully. So now she has some nice bright Phillips Xtravision bulbs until I eventually upgrade to a Retro Fit kit for LED or HID bulbs. Gotta get her baselined first thought.

After that was done I replaced the blown hood struts and slow liftgate struts. Now everything holds properly.

Then I went through and did a hub flange test for R-D-R clunk like @2001LC has done on his ME MY Youtube channel. Here are the results.

Drivers Side:


Passenger Side:


Looks like time for some new hub flanges for me probably along with diff bushings and other ancillary items. Will put her up on jacks this weekend when I have some more light and pull the skid plates and check the diff bushings to confirm. I have played with the driveshafts and they have no play and seem nice and tight. So other than a quick greasing I should be good. Will test the bearings in the front when I have them off the ground as well. Hoping that I don't have to dive into that quite yet.

Quick question, I have seen a tool that goes over then end of the axle before you put the grease cap on to grease everything up nicely but can't remember where I saw said tool. Anyone have a link?
Click to expand...


this one? Slee - Spindle Grease Tool
 
So yesterday since I had the day off the wife and I took care of getting all the Christmas decor down before the next storm is supposed to roll in. Took us most of the day but we really didn't get moving until like noon so the morning was nice and lazy. Had a bit of sunlight left when we were done so I decided to jack the front of the truck up after seeing what was going on with the R-D-R clunk and check the wheel bearings.

Think wheel bearings are in decent shape, preload and everything probably needs to be reset and bearings packed but had ZERO play vertically (grabbing 12 and 6 on the tire and shaking) and only a minimal amount of play horizontally (grabbing at 3 and 9). So that makes me feel good, was dreading having to possibly go in when I do the hub flanges to do a full bearing job.

First things that will be put on order next week are as follows;
- Oil filter (Toyota 90915-YZZD3)
- Oil filter gaskets (Toyota 90430-12031) *this is correct number yes?*
- Heater Ts (going order some metal ones, these Dorman)
- Then all the hoses to do the Heater Ts (figure might as well since I am in there and don't know how brittle the original Ts are)
- 87245-6A190
- 87245-6A180
- 99556-20200
- 87245-6A220
- 87245-6A210
- 87245-6A200
- New Heater T clamps (96136-52101 x6)

Can someone confirm that heater t Hose numbers for me?!
 
LOL so took a chance and went to Best Buy to see if they had a Cassette Tape adapter that would work with my iPhone.
Turns out that they now make BLUETOOTH cassette adapters for streaming music and calls!!

C4598D16-D0B8-4266-8D37-962761837BBE.webp
 
How do you like driving and owning the LC100 and compared to the 60 series overall? :) Sure there are a lot more relatively modern technologies and hp/torques. What about the fun factor?
 
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