Keep us posted on how you like it. I need something for my rig and a new head unit is a long ways down the list of mods.
Builds 60 guy does a 100 series LC...
- Thread starter gregnash
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Keep us posted on how you like it. I need something for my rig and a new head unit is a long ways down the list of mods.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #42
Still getting used to it. Interior is definitely different feeling and bigger, but at the same time doesn't feel quite as spacious. The ability to step on the skinny pedal and get somewhere is very nice but I do miss rowing my own gears.
When I say I'm still getting used to it, like there are times where I still reach to roll down my window or when I get out of the vehicle I instinctively go to press down the lock button. But all in all I love it and it still feels like a Land Cruiser to me. Starting to slowly take care of the baseline items, looks like I am going to have to do brakes sooner than I had anticipated (backs are squealing every time I touch the brakes) but all part of the process. Will order stuff to do the Heater Ts next week when I get paid and do an oil change then as well. From there I will start knocking things off the list; brakes, other fluids, interior, diff bushings, ball joints, etc.
When I say I'm still getting used to it, like there are times where I still reach to roll down my window or when I get out of the vehicle I instinctively go to press down the lock button. But all in all I love it and it still feels like a Land Cruiser to me. Starting to slowly take care of the baseline items, looks like I am going to have to do brakes sooner than I had anticipated (backs are squealing every time I touch the brakes) but all part of the process. Will order stuff to do the Heater Ts next week when I get paid and do an oil change then as well. From there I will start knocking things off the list; brakes, other fluids, interior, diff bushings, ball joints, etc.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #43
So far the initial impressions are pretty good. Took a minute for it to connect to my iPhone, quick off/on of the bluetooth on the phone got it setup right away. From there sound is decent, not great but radio quality. Wife gave me a call while I was driving and said she could hear me pretty clearly. Nice to have the "modern" functionality and will save me a bit of time for the stereo system upgrade. Will do speakers first, then amp replacement and then headunit after that. Been working with Crutchfield (have always had good luck with them and great customer service) and they have me setup with a set of Infinity 6532EX speakers for the door and a SUPER small, brick like, amp from kicker that will power the doors more than adequately. I will end up removing the stock sub and go with a self contained compact unit like those offered by Kenwood, Fosgate, etc.
My 100 is a different sort of beast - came with triple lockers, arb front bumper and some hail dings.
I ended up adding a JVC android auto head unit. It'll do just bluetooth if I want but it makes driving with google maps really nice.
I do miss the volume knob. And yes I ordered from crutchfield. I kept the factory amp (PO put in new speakers at one point) so I just had to splice up a harness with the bits crutchfield sent. Install was trivial. Sounds great.
That said... If I wanted to use that radio while camping, I'd either bypass the factory amp or run a separate set of speakers for camping. I ran the radio in my RV to to a toggle so it'll run off either normal car power or the house battery. Very handy for camping setups.
I ended up adding a JVC android auto head unit. It'll do just bluetooth if I want but it makes driving with google maps really nice.
I do miss the volume knob. And yes I ordered from crutchfield. I kept the factory amp (PO put in new speakers at one point) so I just had to splice up a harness with the bits crutchfield sent. Install was trivial. Sounds great.
That said... If I wanted to use that radio while camping, I'd either bypass the factory amp or run a separate set of speakers for camping. I ran the radio in my RV to to a toggle so it'll run off either normal car power or the house battery. Very handy for camping setups.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #45
So got a little time this weekend while the wife was out of town to go over(under) the truck and check some things out.
First off, I found out that the fog lights were dead. I initially thought the fogs were the DRL, but seems they are different and had no idea until I was messing with the truck this weekend and found they never came on (yes the switch is in the on position). When I pulled both the bulbs were both super hazy so I figured they were dead. Replaced them with yellow colored Hella bulbs as we get enough snow that the amber/yellow color helps.
Then, I pulled the air cleaner to see what shape the filter was in, lucky it looks to be pretty new and only a few leaves and junk in the bottom that I vacuumed out.
Continued along that line to see what all the throttle body looked like and familiarize myself with disassembling the top portion like that.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Pretty dirty and a few blasts with some throttle body cleaner and a good cleaning of the MAF with some MAF Cleaner and she looked good as new. Seems to respond a bit better to throttle input now too.
After that I just kinda crawled around under the truck to familiarize myself with where stuff is. Looks like I will be needing new cat back exhaust in the future (maybe the next year or two) as it is decently rusty and dirty but nothing to the point where there are holes that I could see or hear. Took her out for a quick jaunt on the dirt up a close to me fireroad and she did great, hooked up like there was nothing in her way and just went.
Got stuff for an oil change coming (toyota YZZD3 filter, appropriate filter wrench as my old one did not fit), gaskets for the drain plug (Toyota 90430-12031) and then will give the new Kirkland 5w30 oil a try from Costco (all the reviews I have come across for it Amazon Basics and SuperTech are all pretty good, middle of the road oil, not spectacular but pretty good). Will be ordering a Wits' End Heater T kit from @NLXTACY to handle that as it seems like mine have never been changed.
After that will be purchasing a hub flange kit from @cruiseroutfit for the truck as I have a pretty significant clunk when going from R-D and also if the truck is coasting and I slam on the gas. I tested the wheel bearings the other night and there was a bit of play left to right and zero play up to down so I figure the bearings are still in decent shape, just probably need to have the pre-load reset and the spindles/axles regreased. Will grab new axle nut hardware while I am at it just to be safe.
First off, I found out that the fog lights were dead. I initially thought the fogs were the DRL, but seems they are different and had no idea until I was messing with the truck this weekend and found they never came on (yes the switch is in the on position). When I pulled both the bulbs were both super hazy so I figured they were dead. Replaced them with yellow colored Hella bulbs as we get enough snow that the amber/yellow color helps.
Then, I pulled the air cleaner to see what shape the filter was in, lucky it looks to be pretty new and only a few leaves and junk in the bottom that I vacuumed out.
Continued along that line to see what all the throttle body looked like and familiarize myself with disassembling the top portion like that.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrPretty dirty and a few blasts with some throttle body cleaner and a good cleaning of the MAF with some MAF Cleaner and she looked good as new. Seems to respond a bit better to throttle input now too.
After that I just kinda crawled around under the truck to familiarize myself with where stuff is. Looks like I will be needing new cat back exhaust in the future (maybe the next year or two) as it is decently rusty and dirty but nothing to the point where there are holes that I could see or hear. Took her out for a quick jaunt on the dirt up a close to me fireroad and she did great, hooked up like there was nothing in her way and just went.
Got stuff for an oil change coming (toyota YZZD3 filter, appropriate filter wrench as my old one did not fit), gaskets for the drain plug (Toyota 90430-12031) and then will give the new Kirkland 5w30 oil a try from Costco (all the reviews I have come across for it Amazon Basics and SuperTech are all pretty good, middle of the road oil, not spectacular but pretty good). Will be ordering a Wits' End Heater T kit from @NLXTACY to handle that as it seems like mine have never been changed.
After that will be purchasing a hub flange kit from @cruiseroutfit for the truck as I have a pretty significant clunk when going from R-D and also if the truck is coasting and I slam on the gas. I tested the wheel bearings the other night and there was a bit of play left to right and zero play up to down so I figure the bearings are still in decent shape, just probably need to have the pre-load reset and the spindles/axles regreased. Will grab new axle nut hardware while I am at it just to be safe.
This will not work if you are changing the hoses. One of the hoses is 1/2".
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #48
Well for the first time in over a week the starter decided to play games with me today. Lots and lots of clicks before she finally kicked over. Then later this morning she starts without an issue... Looks like this will be added to the short list again, she had moved down because I had been without any sort of issue for a bit.
I did the same thing you did...sold the 60 and bought my wife a 100. First thing I did was the timing belt and "T's". I would add timing belt if they were not done recently and the mileage applies. I also went to Trail Tailor and got their upper control arms and diff drop. You can keep the stock torsion bars and just buy shocks and rear springs if you are light duty and want to save some dough. The UCA's from TT are really nice with johnny joints and a nice ball joint for the spindle. I also just replaced the steering rack. That one hurt ($2k) but I feel better replacing it as the steering would never align while driving and the shop could not align it either. I've had lots of electrical gremlins that I either fixed or they worked themselves out on their own (I believe the previous owner did not drive it much).
We bought it with just under 200k on the ODO about 2 years ago and we have driven it from Oregon to San Diego twice (1400 miles each trip) and Oregon to Mississippi once without any issues. It's my wife's daily and she loves it. She says it's her favorite car she's ever had!
I have a few maintenance items to do (Valve cover gaskets and fix rattles) but so far it's been much easier to maintain than the 60...especially here in Mississippi.
We bought it with just under 200k on the ODO about 2 years ago and we have driven it from Oregon to San Diego twice (1400 miles each trip) and Oregon to Mississippi once without any issues. It's my wife's daily and she loves it. She says it's her favorite car she's ever had!
I have a few maintenance items to do (Valve cover gaskets and fix rattles) but so far it's been much easier to maintain than the 60...especially here in Mississippi.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #50
Yeah, I just need time to go through it and get myself familiarized with the truck to figure out what is where and how things SHOULD look. When I was rummaging around underneath it looked like all the swaybar bushings were cracked but I need to remove the skidplates to be able to really see. Also need to do that so I can see what is going on with my R-D clunk (is it really the diff bushings or not).
The close to 400 mile trip home was pretty much flawless. There are things that I need to figure out, like the brakes, why I get a kinda grinding noise (not sure that is the right descriptor) when accelerating hard from about 55mph to about 70mph (but will go away if I let off the skinny pedal a bit). Seeing that the upper ball joints are cracked and nasty (and lowers are just nasty but need to be cleaned well to see if they're cracked).
All of it is stuff that I consider as "normal" for a 20+yr old truck with close to 200k on it. Seeing as I drive about 4500 miles a year on average I will probably wait until next year to do the TB/WP seeing as it looks like the radiator was replaced within the last few years (denso unit that is nice and clean) but there is no sticker showing (need to go through the paperwork again) but do have confirmation that the serpentine belt was done a number of years ago.
Right now the main thing is getting the known MAJOR stuff taken care of; Heater Ts, Hub Flanges, Starter (in that order).
The close to 400 mile trip home was pretty much flawless. There are things that I need to figure out, like the brakes, why I get a kinda grinding noise (not sure that is the right descriptor) when accelerating hard from about 55mph to about 70mph (but will go away if I let off the skinny pedal a bit). Seeing that the upper ball joints are cracked and nasty (and lowers are just nasty but need to be cleaned well to see if they're cracked).
All of it is stuff that I consider as "normal" for a 20+yr old truck with close to 200k on it. Seeing as I drive about 4500 miles a year on average I will probably wait until next year to do the TB/WP seeing as it looks like the radiator was replaced within the last few years (denso unit that is nice and clean) but there is no sticker showing (need to go through the paperwork again) but do have confirmation that the serpentine belt was done a number of years ago.
Right now the main thing is getting the known MAJOR stuff taken care of; Heater Ts, Hub Flanges, Starter (in that order).
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #55
Rear most cushion looks to be in ok shape.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Front cushion bottom looks ok but top cushion is completely gone.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Looking at the tensioner assembly for the timing belt, it looks like I am probably due for a full TB/WP service (rust?)..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
And cleaned this up to try and figure out where the leak is coming from.. Nothing on top of the diff that I could see so thinking either its a side or just the gasket in general. Would the axle on that side possibly spray over to the diff like that? Both were wet with the diff being the worst.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrFront cushion bottom looks ok but top cushion is completely gone.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrLooking at the tensioner assembly for the timing belt, it looks like I am probably due for a full TB/WP service (rust?)..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrAnd cleaned this up to try and figure out where the leak is coming from.. Nothing on top of the diff that I could see so thinking either its a side or just the gasket in general. Would the axle on that side possibly spray over to the diff like that? Both were wet with the diff being the worst.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on FlickrThe "clunk" is your driveshaft. There are threads on it, you need to grease the driveshaft and the knuckles. The driveshaft needs to be over-greased to dampen the clunk.
My driveshaft looked okay when I inspected it as well. I did see your bushing was trashed so that is a problem. If the clunk continues after that replacement, then you should try the driveshaft lube.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #59
So one thing I have noticed is that my O/D Off light is out. Looking at the information available it seems to be a T4 type B bulb but for the life of me I can't find one other than just the T4 bulb on its lonesome. I don't mind the D being out on the tree but the O/D OFF is a bit bugging for me.
Anyone have a link for the HALOGEN bulb (no want LED)???
Anyone have a link for the HALOGEN bulb (no want LED)???
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #60
So ran a few errands yesterday while I had the chance and then after work got under the truck to see if I could tell were the front diff leak was coming from. Nothing... it was dry and clean like after I had cleaned it off with brake cleaner. The PS CV axle was a little wet at the end where it inserts into the diff but nothing bad or that I would consider concerning (need to go through paperwork again to see if that side was ever done). So not really sure where all the grease and oil was coming from????
