$550 for a front brake job? Really?

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San Francisco, CA
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www.overlandbound.com
This might be the norm, but just checking. My rotors are indeed warped. I get the pulse and I have used the brakes hard (factory 110k miles), but i am used to resurfacing and go! The shop is replacing (not resurfacing) two rotors, and brake pads. Just more expensive than I thought. If I opted to do the rear, it would have been a $1200 brake job. Jeez.
 
Fronts are always going to be more expensive because of the tear down required to get to the rotors... I'm sure they'd be doing new calipers, rotors, pads, hub seals, hub repack, etc.

Rears are easily done in the driveway, it's literally like 4 bolts.
 
Its higher labor cost because they have to pull the hub/rotor combination off the spindles, then separate the rotors from the hubs, then bolt the new rotor to the hubs and put is all back on the spindles, then set the preload on your wheel bearings, and replace the drive plate. While they're at it you should ask them to regrease your wheel bearings if they aren't planning to do that. A cheaper option if you have enough thickness left on your rotors is to have them machined on the vehicle; saves a few hours labor. Or better if it's not too late, plan on replacing the rotors at the same time you have the front axle service done; ie: repacking the birfield CV joints and steering knuckles, new axle and hub seals, etc.

Edit: yohavos beat me to it.
 
A small investment in tools and materials and $250-$300 in OEM (rotors, pads, seals) parts you can perform this job yourself in the garage in 2 hours and 3 beers.

Actually a good lesson if you've never done brakes on a 4x4. If you don't have the time and/or ambition to do it, $550 isn't that bad.
 
Thanks!

Ok...thanks. I was suprised by the cost but it seems in-line with the norm. I guess the key option is turn rotors vs. replace rotors. I was suprised the shop did not even consider turning, and thought they might be jilting me for a couple rotors. I'll calm down now. Thanks all!

-M
 
$550 is not that bad considering the work like others have said
Now if you talk calipers that price will go through the roof
Considering that about $250-300 is parts I think that is a good price
 
Ok...thanks. I was suprised by the cost but it seems in-line with the norm. I guess the key option is turn rotors vs. replace rotors. I was suprised the shop did not even consider turning, and thought they might be jilting me for a couple rotors. I'll calm down now. Thanks all!

-M

rotors have a minimum thickness, usually stamped somewhere on the front of the rotor. Granted we work on large shuttle buses, but we will not turn rotors if they are near the minimum thickness or if they are warped to the point that turning them back to spec reaches the minimum thickness.

I had around 400 in parts doing 100 pads, rotors, calipers, rear pads, rotors, and calipers. did my own labor. braking now, even with big meats, is really nice. well worth it.
 
I did my rears a couple weeks ago and plan on doing the fronts first week in September. I got new calipers and rotors aftermarket about $300 for the front and $200 for the rear about $80 for pads all around. Beno set me up with all the seals and gaskets about $75 for the front plus some clips and retainers that were missing from the aftermarket caliper (I'll got toyota next time I promise C-Dan). Oh yeah and ss slee brake lines about $250.

So just parts about $900 and I went with the cheapest rotors I could find (i will have to break em in easy).

So stop :bang: .
 
Ok...thanks. I was suprised by the cost but it seems in-line with the norm. I guess the key option is turn rotors vs. replace rotors. I was suprised the shop did not even consider turning, and thought they might be jilting me for a couple rotors. I'll calm down now. Thanks all!

-M

Not all shops have an on-the-car brake lathe. Regular brake lathes require removal of the rotor, which is labour intensive (compared to other vehicles) because the hubs come apart. At that point you might as well put new rotors on.

IMO, if the brakes pulsate, replace the rotors to get maximum service life. Warped rotors will need a deep cut to resurface, and that shortens your service life, and can become more prone to warping due to thinner rotors having less thermal mass.

The only special tools required are a 54mm socket which is about $20 from several vendors. Most of the other tools you probably already own. Or perhaps should own. lol.

54mmsocket-225.jpg
 
Price is not bad in my opinion. When I did my front I think it cost me 300 bucks in parts so your paying roughly 250 bucks in labor so not to bad
 
Drove it home

Hey all. Thanks again. I feel better now about laying out the cash. Just drove it home on new rotors and calipers. Had a full service done, and rotated tires. Stops great. No complaints.
 
It depends on what parts are they using for the brake. I bought all 4 slotted rotors and pads (powerstop brand), probably made in China (what else is not!) for $220 and my local mechanic charged me $140 for labor. So the total for all 4 wheels is $360. I was watching him and it took him like 2.5 hours. Stealer would have charged me $400 just to turn the rotors & change pads for the front only.

Your price is in the middle, not low or high if compared to Stealer.
 
Life on my front pads has dwindled to around 7,500 miles :bang:. does that sound normal?


I don't know why but my friend's 93 LC lasts longer than my 97's LX450's brake. The LX450 is probably a bit heavier than the LC. My front brake pads usually lasted about 10k while the rears usually lasted 15k so not much better than yours. That was before I changed it to the slotted rotors, hopefully it will last longer now. Mr T. goofed up on this one!:hhmm:
 
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I paid $250 at the Toyota dealer in Salt Lake City to have new front pads installed and rotors turned back in January.
 
I bought new rotors and pads from CDan a few months ago and had a local shop do the work as I just didn't have the time. IIRC it was something like $400 or maybe a little less which I didn't think was excessive for all 4 corners.
 
I don't know why but my friend's 93 LC lasts longer than my 97's LX450's brake. The LX450 is probably a bit heavier than the LC. My front brake pads usually lasted about 10k while the rears usually lasted 15k so not much better than yours. That was before I changed it to the slotted rotors, hopefully it will last longer now. Mr T. goofed up on this one!:hhmm:
10k on the front and 15k on the rears is what I was getting but the life on fronts has now gone down to 7,500 miles and I'm scratching my head on this one
 
10k on the front and 15k on the rears is what I was getting but the life on fronts has now gone down to 7,500 miles and I'm scratching my head on this one

Even by cruiser standards, that is a crap service life on pads. People regularly report 15K mile intervals, but under 10K... I dunno, perhaps adjusting the LSPV may transfer more of the load to the read and save your fronts a bit...?
 

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