50k service

[katit]

Getting closer to 50k, 42 right now. Only changed oil with m1 synth every 6k. And wiper inserts once. No other service were done.

What should be changed at around this mileage. ALL fluids? AHC fluid? transmission? Brakes/PS?
It's late 2021 LX, less than 3yo

 

[prharper]

Getting closer to 50k, 42 right now. Only changed oil with m1 synth every 6k. And wiper inserts once. No other service were done.

What should be changed at around this mileage. ALL fluids? AHC fluid? transmission? Brakes/PS?
It's late 2021 LX, less than 3yo

Depends on how you use the truck, Towing will increase the maint intervals. Do you go off road much?
Brake fluid should be done every 2-3 years.
I lube driveshafts at every oil change. Same for UCA's.
Not sure about AHC fluid, don't have it and others can chime in.
If the diffs and transfer case fluids have never been done, you may want to do that.
Probably too early for transmission fluid change.
I don't think there is much else to do at this point.
I would definitely do power steering, it's easy and cheap.

Here is a thread asking the same at 60k.

60K, what should I change?

I am about to roll 60K miles here shortly and I am curious as to which fluids I need to change out? I know some of the maintenance schedules suggest t-case and differential fluids but I also see that they only suggest it for towing or heavy use miles at 60K. I tow occasionally with the following...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Sandroad]

Getting closer to 50k, 42 right now. Only changed oil with m1 synth every 6k. And wiper inserts once. No other service were done.

What should be changed at around this mileage. ALL fluids? AHC fluid? transmission? Brakes/PS?
It's late 2021 LX, less than 3yo

Don’t forget to look in your owners manual for the recommended services based on your use. And if have never changed the engine air filter or cabin filter, do those. Put the HVAC in RECIRC before you access the cabin filter.

 

[katit]

Don’t forget to look in your owners manual for the recommended services based on your use. And if have never changed the engine air filter or cabin filter, do those. Put the HVAC in RECIRC before you access the cabin filter.

Yes, haven't done those yet but I know I should have. My LX470 got more love than this one
Book is good, I guess. But I don't read those for new cars, all intervals is either absent or absurdly expanded..

 

[katit]

Depends on how you use the truck, Towing will increase the maint intervals. Do you go off road much?
Brake fluid should be done every 2-3 years.
I lube driveshafts at every oil change. Same for UCA's.
Not sure about AHC fluid, don't have it and others can chime in.
If the diffs and transfer case fluids have never been done, you may want to do that.
Probably too early for transmission fluid change.
I don't think there is much else to do at this point.
I would definitely do power steering, it's easy and cheap.

Here is a thread asking the same at 60k.

60K, what should I change?

I am about to roll 60K miles here shortly and I am curious as to which fluids I need to change out? I know some of the maintenance schedules suggest t-case and differential fluids but I also see that they only suggest it for towing or heavy use miles at 60K. I tow occasionally with the following...

forum.ih8mud.com

No offroading, just some actual use (like getting to fishing/hunting spot) so not much.
And maybe 3000 miles of light towing uhaul trailer with motorcycle(s)

UCAs have oilers? 100 series doesn't..
And what about driveshafts, I didn't know they lubed..

 

[prharper]

No offroading, just some actual use (like getting to fishing/hunting spot) so not much.
And maybe 3000 miles of light towing uhaul trailer with motorcycle(s)

UCAs have oilers? 100 series doesn't..
And what about driveshafts, I didn't know they lubed..

If your stock, then no on UCA's. I run SPC UCA's.
Good thread here on driveshaft.

How I grease my front driveshaft

I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...

forum.ih8mud.com

Front;

Rear Propeller Shaft

 

[Sandroad]

Yes, haven't done those yet but I know I should have. My LX470 got more love than this one
Book is good, I guess. But I don't read those for new cars, all intervals is either absent or absurdly expanded..

Lexus makes it really easy to get that info online. You can either get it by VIN or by model/year. I strongly recommend you find out at least what Lexus recommends for service in addition to input from owners here on Mud. You don’t need a mylexus account, but if you do sign in, you’ll get the service info that way too.

Service & Parts | My Lexus

Find your Lexus maintenance schedule, schedule a service with one of our technicians, view service specials, and browse parts and accessories for your vehicle.

www.lexus.com

 

[katit]

Lexus makes it really easy to get that info online. You can either get it by VIN or by model/year. I strongly recommend you find out at least what Lexus recommends for service in addition to input from owners here on Mud. You don’t need a mylexus account, but if you do sign in, you’ll get the service info that way too.

Service & Parts | My Lexus

Find your Lexus maintenance schedule, schedule a service with one of our technicians, view service specials, and browse parts and accessories for your vehicle.

www.lexus.com

My lexus for some reason doesn't see "my cars" (I do have acct). I guess temporary glitch.

Anyhow, I pulled book and checked. Feel really bad now
Under "bad conditions" they recommend front/rear diff oil at 15k. And again at 30k along with transfer case oil. Got all info I need

What is up with 0w-20 oil? On EVERY interval they say "...if you did not, switch to 0-20 now.."
Is it emissions stuff or something really needed? My prior research on oils got me settled on M1 5w-30 EP and I change it every 6k. Along with Toyota RD filter.

Is M1 75-90 LS good enough for diffs? What about transfer case?

 

[gasman4u]

My lexus for some reason doesn't see "my cars" (I do have acct). I guess temporary glitch.

Anyhow, I pulled book and checked. Feel really bad now
Under "bad conditions" they recommend front/rear diff oil at 15k. And again at 30k along with transfer case oil. Got all info I need

What is up with 0w-20 oil? On EVERY interval they say "...if you did not, switch to 0-20 now.."
Is it emissions stuff or something really needed? My prior research on oils got me settled on M1 5w-30 EP and I change it every 6k. Along with Toyota RD filter.

Is M1 75-90 LS good enough for diffs? What about transfer case?

I did my transmission fluid exchange at 50k. Up to you if you want to change it or not - I know it was a little early, but wanted to get what I consider the "break in" fluid changed for fresh as I plan on keeping this truck a long time. As mentioned before, change your diff/t case fluids now. Especially if not done before.

The oil question is contentious for sure. Regardless of what tribe you find yourself leaning towards, know that many have said oil related failures on these engines are almost unheard of. I was going to go with 5W30 (even bought the different filler cap), but have not done so given some of the (REALLY) nerdy stuff I've been reading about oils. Please DON'T let this thread devolve into an oil thread.

Prepare yourself for a deep dive:

$80/liter transfer case oil

I'm baselining my new-to-me 200 and part of that process is all new fluids. Looking up the specs, Toyota calls for "SAE 75W Toyota Genuine Transfer Gear LF" fluid. 1.53L, for the record. My discount parts source is $53.63/Liter, MSRP at the counter is $81 What about this stuff is so special...

forum.ih8mud.com

Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW

Update: confirmed that the 3UR is recommended to run a whole suite of heavier oils. Screenshots from UAE 200 5.7L manual below. More proof that environmental regulatory agencies have handcuffed Toyota in the states. I spent the better part of yesterday’s afternoon researching oil viscosities...

forum.ih8mud.com

Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO

I finally pulled together the video I took while completing a complete transmission fluid flush. Most of you know the dealer's service typically consists of draining and refilling the pan only. This only introduces 3-4 clean quarts of fluid in the system. I went through 14 quarts of fluid...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[katit]

@gasman4u
Thanks! Enough to read fo a while. Not going to mess with my engine oil routine Not going to start debates.

Sounds like I am good for now info-wise. Will replace all fluids except AHC, Coolant and Transmission. Will replace both air filters.

Side Q: How long do brakes last on those? Half of miles from travel, so no brake wear. But looking at pads/disks seems like I have a lot of life..
Side Q2: Factory tires still have some meat before bars. However, outside edges get worn out especially upfront. Normal? I was thinking about changing them before winter.

 

[gasman4u]

@gasman4u
Thanks! Enough to read fo a while. Not going to mess with my engine oil routine Not going to start debates.

Sounds like I am good for now info-wise. Will replace all fluids except AHC, Coolant and Transmission. Will replace both air filters.

Side Q: How long do brakes last on those? Half of miles from travel, so no brake wear. But looking at pads/disks seems like I have a lot of life..
Side Q2: Factory tires still have some meat before bars. However, outside edges get worn out especially upfront. Normal? I was thinking about changing them before winter.

I did a few drain and fills at the radiator petcock for a coolant change (I forgot to mention this) over a few days to try and get most of the original factory fill exchanged at 50k too. I know - it's early. I totally get it if you don't want to do this. IIRC, the factory stuff is good until 100k/110k per the book? Filters and fluids are a good way to make sure whatever you drive stays on the road vs in the shop IMO.

SQ 1: I'm at 61k on original rotors/pads. I drive a fair bit of highway though. Front pads are thicc (sic) 7mm compared to rear approx 5mm at last check approx 2k miles ago.

SQ 2: I got rid of the dunlops too early, but wanted to get back on the Michelin defender asap. I changed around 10k mark. IMO, changing before winter to whatever you choose would be a good move.

 

[Sandroad]

@gasman4u
Thanks! Enough to read fo a while. Not going to mess with my engine oil routine Not going to start debates.

Sounds like I am good for now info-wise. Will replace all fluids except AHC, Coolant and Transmission. Will replace both air filters.

Side Q: How long do brakes last on those? Half of miles from travel, so no brake wear. But looking at pads/disks seems like I have a lot of life..
Side Q2: Factory tires still have some meat before bars. However, outside edges get worn out especially upfront. Normal? I was thinking about changing them before winter.

Brake wear is dependent on use. Take a look every oil change to make sure you have pad left.

Get an alignment and do regular rotation. And yes, you should get new tires before the wear bars.

 

[katit]

Brake wear is dependent on use. Take a look every oil change to make sure you have pad left.

Get an alignment and do regular rotation. And yes, you should get new tires before the wear bars.

I do rotation every oil change. I just noticed that outside edge wears when tires are on a front.

 

[katit]

I did a few drain and fills at the radiator petcock for a coolant change (I forgot to mention this) over a few days to try and get most of the original factory fill exchanged at 50k too. I know - it's early. I totally get it if you don't want to do this. IIRC, the factory stuff is good until 100k/110k per the book? Filters and fluids are a good way to make sure whatever you drive stays on the road vs in the shop IMO.

SQ 1: I'm at 61k on original rotors/pads. I drive a fair bit of highway though. Front pads are thicc (sic) 7mm compared to rear approx 5mm at last check approx 2k miles ago.

SQ 2: I got rid of the dunlops too early, but wanted to get back on the Michelin defender asap. I changed around 10k mark. IMO, changing before winter to whatever you choose would be a good move.

With coolant I usually do it with draining block and radiator, then fill with distilled water, let it work, and then drain again and then fill. Again, it's 42k now, won't do coolant, truck is pretty new.

Why do you like Michelin better? Dunlops (21... eh) seem to work fine for me. I like ride quality. Those few times when I had to do little off-roading to get to places - no problem whatsoever. I was planning sticking with OEM, for longevity reasons too.

 

[gasman4u]

With coolant I usually do it with draining block and radiator, then fill with distilled water, let it work, and then drain again and then fill. Again, it's 42k now, won't do coolant, truck is pretty new.

Why do you like Michelin better? Dunlops (21... eh) seem to work fine for me. I like ride quality. Those few times when I had to do little off-roading to get to places - no problem whatsoever. I was planning sticking with OEM, for longevity reasons too.

42k is early for sure to change coolant.

It's your truck, but the toyota pink stuff is only sold pre-diluted at 50:50. Distilled water isn't a good idea from what I have read given this fact. No way to really recover the correct concentration if you add distilled water to the system. My $0.02 is to avoid it in this truck.

I like the defenders comparatively better. Super quiet on the road and decent enough for what I've done offroad. They wear like iron and have good snow/ice traction compared to some of the off road options that are popular. If you price them out, you can get the Michelins for less than the OEM tires.

 

[katit]

42k is early for sure to change coolant.

It's your truck, but the toyota pink stuff is only sold pre-diluted at 50:50. Distilled water isn't a good idea from what I have read given this fact. No way to really recover the correct concentration if you add distilled water to the system. My $0.02 is to avoid it in this truck.

I like the defenders comparatively better. Super quiet on the road and decent enough for what I've done offroad. They wear like iron and have good snow/ice traction compared to some of the off road options that are popular. If you price them out, you can get the Michelins for less than the OEM tires.

Valid point on coolant. I did this in my old LX470s because of unknown history. And I used AISIN(?) coolant mix just eyeballed little more coolant to compensate for whatever water was in heater core. In 570 since it was my from new I may go OEM and just refill with toyota fluid, but still can drain block, not a big deal.

If you say defenders super-quiet I might just do those. I am really not about looks this days, want comfy and quiet ride If it's better in snow - even better.

OH, one more thing and I guess it's more loaded Q. When rotate I don't include spare tire. So now I will have new spare with Dunlop on it. That was another reason I wanted to stick to the same.

 

[M1911]

There is no way to generalize about brake use. Someone who mostly drives on the highway will likely have much less brake wear than an aggressive driver who does mostly stop-and-go city driving.