5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60

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That has to be lined up as you slide the case forwards. There is a notch that it has to ride into on the shaft #17. Drop it down a hair and as you slide the case together pull it up and catch the notch. After the case is in put the shifter lever on...Otherwise #64 will drop back into the case and you will need to get a piece of stiff wire to push it back up.
 
TC pic #2

same question as above, see item with red box around it. We are having a problem getting this installed correctly.
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Yep that is the same part. Also make sure the fork is seated on the sleeve correctly. But the biggie is holding that shaft while the case goes on then pulling it up into the notch as it goes together. If it still won't shift and you know you hit the notch check the shaft for burrs and knicks. It has to be nice and clean.
 
Yep that is the same part. Also make sure the fork is seated on the sleeve correctly. But the biggie is holding that shaft while the case goes on then pulling it up into the notch as it goes together. If it still won't shift and you know you hit the notch check the shaft for burrs and knicks. It has to be nice and clean.

thanks Randy, I think we have it now. Appreciate the advice. Hopefully we'll get the engine / trans/ transfer case all combined
this coming weekend. Then its on to removing the front OEM motor mounts off the frame and fabricating the new ones. The motor mount job will be the next big hurdle, then its going to be the wiring.

Any feedback on the starter connections and alternator connections. I'll be running the GM alternator and of course the GM starter, both of which have to be integrated into the yota wiring harness. I'll do some searches over the next day or two but if anyone has any notes or first hand experience please share that with me...
 
Use the Yota starter lead and add the white alt. wire to your post and that should do it. Don't worry about your charge light since the GM trouble light will be your warning light now. Simple to wire in if you know what your original wires are.
 
The GM part number for the plug to block the EGR port on the intake manifold is 12556596. gmpartsdirect shows it cheaper than summit. FYI for those who may be able to use this.
I was unaware of these things until I came across them on the summit web page when I was looking
for heater hose fittings.
 
Update 4 Jan 08

Ok, update:

My friend finished the TC build and solved the issue with the hi-lo shifter rod. We installed the starter, finished the minor prep on the bellhousing adapter. Spray bombed the yota bellshousing, installed the clutch fork and rubber boot, mated yota bellhousing to adapter. Then mated trans and TC to the yota bellhousing. Did some minor work on the oil filter adapter housing and found out we did not have the large allen wrench required to finish that, and plumbed
the oil filter housing for oil cooler hoses. Removed OEM EGR valve and made a
"custom" EGR block-off plate and installed that with a new gasket, and also installed EGR hose "pipe-plug". Next step will be to remove OEM yota front motor mounts. See pics.
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update pics 2

you'll also notice we used some recessed allen head bolts on the bellhousing access panel. We cut this such that we could remove the panel for access once its installed in the truck. I'll most likely take some silicone an try to seal the cut once we finish. At the time we did not see a way that the yota clutch inspection panel could be removed for access once its installed using the Marks adapter. You need access to this to make necessary adjustments to the "spud shaft" lock nut. I may need to get one of those water necks that you can move the "neck" on , once I figure out what radiator hoses will work.
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update pics 3

more updated pics
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updated pics 3

last group of pics
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I've learned a lot of stuff along the way about the truck and I expect to learn some more. We have a made a few mistakes and had to take some things back off, but that's part of the game. I would rather address our screw ups on the work table rather than in the truck. Not big issues, just that we kind of got ahead of ourselves a couple of times and had to backtrack. Overall I think we have made good progress considering that we have only worked on this for a couple of days and have spent a number of hours running back to the parts place or somewhere else looking for a bolt, parts, or whatever. Fastenal is a good source for hard to find metric stuff and all kinds of other stuff. We stopped by the local store and they have a good selection of "stuff". Considering that neither I nor my friend have any real experience with land cruiser mechanicals we've done all right in my view. I think this combination of GM V-8 with yota drive train will be a very good combination. I need to think about upgrading the front brake calipers while I'm at this point. It's going to be a good running "beast" when all is done. Everything looks pretty clean in the pics, we cleaned the TC case up pretty good and the associated likage, also cleaned up the used bellhousing and access panel I bought, along with the trans crossmember. My stock I-6 must have been leaking at the rear main for some time prior to my ownership. Once I decided to go with the V-8 swap, fixing the rear main on the I-6 was not important. Rather nasty at the rear bottom of the I-6. Whomever buys the I-6 should fix that first, while the engine is out of the vehicle.
 
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LOOKING GOOD Elbert. Keep it coming! Soon you will be wiring and firing

Thanks Randy. I think its turning out ok so far. I did not follow your other post about the white ALt wire? This 98 yukon engine came to me on a pallet. I do have a pickup that has a similar engine I can use as a reference point. I also have the shop manuals. As I recall the toyota had about 3 wires on the ALt while the GM ALt has a pigtail and one stud connection. I 'll post up some pics with detailed questions. Got to get some GM pigtails for the point where we get to wiring.
 
No worries. You will need only one wire off the yota which is the large gauge white wire off your Alt. harness. Run it to the post and you are good to go for your Alt gauge. The ECU will give you a check engine light if you go under or over volt. Keep at it and if you get stuck we are here!
 
No worries. You will need only one wire off the yota which is the large gauge white wire off your Alt. harness. Run it to the post and you are good to go for your Alt gauge. The ECU will give you a check engine light if you go under or over volt. Keep at it and if you get stuck we are here!

Yeah, I was surprised with that one today. Just the one 10 gauge white wire (the largest one), and my alternator works like a charm. One wire to the primary alternator post, and the others are running on the GM pig tail/ECU.
There's been numerous things about the Downey manual that I've found to be interesting...
 
On a related note, I used my Toyota oil pressure sending unit and it threaded into a port on the block (lower passenger side IIRC) so that I never even used the adapter. - IE: the GM sender uses the stock GM location at the back of the block, and the Toyota one went on the side of the block.

No issues ten months into it.
 
Did any of you guys running a mark's adapter drill a drain hole at the bottom of the adapter. Seems to me that mud & water and crap can get in the housing but I don't see a way for that to get out. Now with the adapter my clutch and flywheel reside in the adapter so I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the adapter at the low point for a drain.
 
I didn't but I don't think it would hurt it as long as it's a small hole.
 
more update

12 Jan 08

Ok, kind of lost track of stuff we've done since last update. But here goes. We complete the "mating of the engine + trans + transfer case. We set the engine combination over into the truck yesterday and bolted down the transmission to the crossmember and the crossmember to the frame. This allowed up to ballpark our distance front to rear in regard to engin placement. Also dummied up the rear driveshaft to check for clearance there. Since my autozone steering gear starting leaking again prior to this swap, we went ahead and installed a "new" steering gear....the last gear only lasted just under a year before leaking once again. Also installed the steering linkage heat shield that had been "flopping" around for some time. Installed the oil filter adapter housing to run a vertical oil filter and installed the oil cooler fitting at the adapter. Removed totyotat OEM engine mounts, did a good bit of grinding and cutting on the mounts. Fabbed up for the left and right front engine mounts. We ended up doing some further modification to the mouts, welded up a couple of the holes on the engine side of the mount and then redrilled a hole to match our bolt location on the frame mount. Passenger side went pretty smooth, we had to cut some material off the drivers side engine side mount to allow for install and do the same weld procedure. Based on my observation I guess the AA mounts are "fit all type" and you modifiy them to suit your setup the best you can. We took the best course of action that seemed to work at the time. Spray bombed the mounts and hardware once they cooled from welding, installed the rear drive shaft. Engine is fully bolted down and we're back to having a rolling vehicle. Exhaust looks like its going to be extremely tight on the passenger side, drivers side looks very easy on the exhaust. Not much room at all on the passenger side for exhaust....starter, clutch arm and slave... then you have to consider the crossmember too. Exhaust looks to be a challenge.
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more stuff

more pictures 2
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