5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60

[Elbert]

First Real update. I'll have to get some pics, forgot camera.
Had the engine on a dolly, and previously I had installed new water pump, idler and belt tensioner, rebuilt alternator and new belt. Also new rear main, new oil pan gasket, new upper and lower intake gaskets, new valve cover gaskets.

Sunday: We installed rams horn manifolds, 1/2 of the new motor mounts (engine side), installed new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, installed piolot bearing and the mark's adapter bellhousing adapter.
Called it a day since we need some parts off the transmission yet to be removed from the 60.

Anyone have any ideas on using the current engine oil dipstick and the new exhaust manifolds (pictures would help here). I can't get new pics until week after thanksgiving. Anyway I think the stock oil dipstick will work if we do some bending on it. Would like to have a clean looking bracket that holds it to the RH side of the engine.

Those with this engine (what have you done with the heater hose routing... 98 Vortec 5.7. The I-6 engine has the heater control valve on the firewall (old school manual type), new engine has vaccum operated heater control valve on the heater hoses that run off the front of the engine and work back towards the heater core. (I'll look over some of the old threads to see if I can tell).

Wonder if one of the FJ62 long range fuel tanks would work along with a FJ62 in tank fuel pump to feed the vortec... Man-a-fre told me by email they were working on sometthing similar.

 

[workingdog]

I assume that the FJ62 fuel pump was relatively low pressure. What pressure does the 5.7 require? Can any intank fuel pump be mounted in the FJ62 tank?

Peter

 

[philos1]

Dipstick- I got one from PAW, and made it work with one I had laying around (PAW tube, old one for the stick part)

Fuel pump, I used the airtex "E-2000", it's a universal type (TLC uses it, so...), IIRC, the 62 pump is too low of a pressure, Vortec needs like 65psi????

Heater hoses- see if you can figure it out from my swap thread pics, if not I can take some CU pics for ya- I remember buying a handful of hose adapters and bends but not really needing too many.


now get us some photos!!!!

 

[Elbert]

ok, I got to visit the doctor tomorrow and do some running around. I drop by my freinds shop to take some pics either tomorrow afternoon or Sat. We are in a hold position right now, because my friend need to finish two smaller car projects he has going before we jump back on mine. I have all the major parts at this point so, not wiating on any of the big items. I'm sure there will be some stuff here and there. I want to try to round up the bracket the holds the ECM to the fender well and also a GM OEM air filter housing. I expect I'll be junkyard surfing for that stuff. I'll put the camera in the truck this time

 

[Elbert]

Philos1,

Do you recall the fitting adapters you used to mate with your two fuel hoses at the end of the intake, near the firewall. THe ones that feed the fuel injection. Part numbers would be great!

 

[Elbert]

Pics, showing engine prep so far and bellhousing adapter. If anyone needs to see the clutch & flywheel let me know and I'll take the bellhousing off and take a few pics. Did not have camera with me when intially installed. I think we are on schedule to start the removal of the I-6 this next Friday, if either of "us" don't have to work our "day" jobs.

 

[Elbert]

4th pic...different view

 

[Elbert]

more pics

pic of stock engine setup.

and pic of weight of the 60 with I-6 and my fat @$$ in the drivers seat...
will post another to see what the overall avg. weight difference is once done.

 

[philos1]

Philos1,

Do you recall the fitting adapters you used to mate with your two fuel hoses at the end of the intake, near the firewall. THe ones that feed the fuel injection. Part numbers would be great!

s***, I'll have some digging to get a part # for it, but I remember it was the fuel line assembly for 96-99 5.7 C-1500 p/u. I still haven't organized all of my receipts from the swap


I used the front half of it, then cut and flared the ends where it goes to the frame-rail so I could use it with rubber line to the pump. IIRC, I also had to bend it around a little bit to fit around the H-55 and Toyota stuff- pretty easy as far as I remember it.

I'll dig around tomorrow for the part #, and I'll post it if I find it.

cheers.

 

[Tinker]

L -

I have a '98 5.7 Vortec/4L60E in my '84. I'll post up pix of the dipstick & the heater hoses tomorrow (only have an aircard connection @ home). Also, I'll snap the AC electrical diagram for you.

Lots of folks are running the stock radiator, but you'll have a time making a shround to adapt the GM mechanical fan to it (probably took me 3 man-days to make one out of fiberglass for the 460 in my '56 F100). I've got a single electric one for the Vortec run by a Flex-A-Lite solid state controller, but it's not enough for slow going in the mountains (running 2 add-on tranny coolers in addition to the AC condenser: 1 for the PS & 1 for the 4L60E in addition to the tranny section of a Ron Davis Racing aluminum radiator). The later (GenIII?) motors have electric fans so that's what Aint is talking about: no dice on the 5.7. I'm going to a Contour dual fan & just adding another Flex-A-Lite solid controller (cheapest way to go at this point & kinda cool 'cause I can set the start temps independently).

Something you probably haven't thought of yet: stock plug wires might not fit over the ramshorns which really hold the heat. I went to Taylor 10mm ones to fit the crab cap & withstand the heat (you'll have to buy a special $58 crimper, too unless you want to borrow mine for the price of the 2-way ride).

You're gonna love it!

 

[philos1]

I went with 90 degree boot wires from a big-block vortec of the same year, they work just fine as well- just another option.

shroud is definitely a bit of work, but I wouldn't call it too hard to make if you take your time...

 

[Elbert]

not shown in the pics but I bought straight boot plug wires that fit a 98 K2500 with big-block. Belden's from NAPA. Not cheap. Plugs + wires $150+ My plan now is to come up with som wire seperators that maybe have holes in them for mouting to the bolts in the valve cover. I know some guys run the 90 degree boots and snake the wires along the block, but that seems to be asking for issues.

 

[Elbert]

fuel rail fittings 5.7 Vortec

can anyone confirm that these are the correct fittings to use on the two fuel rail fittings on a 5.7 Vortc. They look like the right ones to me, but wanted to know if anyone else knew for sure and it might help others.

Adapters to use when using a 5.7 vortec as a swap, at least I belive they are the right ones.

 

[Tinker]

Dipstick, Heater Hoses, & AC Schematic

L -
Here they are (dunno if the order will be correct).

The plug wire harnesses are Accel.

 

[Tinker]

AC Schematic & Another Hint

Here's the AC schematic after all. The other tidbit you'll need is the correct temp sender (small wire along plug wires) - it's a NAPA part but I'll have to dig for it.

 

[Tinker]

Dipstick, finally

This message is at least three characters long (couldn't post without it).

 

[Elbert]

Anyone have any good advice on what throttle cable to run on the V-8 swap? I assume one out of a yukon or pickup of simlar year the engine is would work. I belive some of the guys may have run one of the lokar models?

Is it best to drill the hole and setup the throttle cable at the firewall when the engine is out (I assume so), at this point I don't if you can get in there to drill the right place in the firewall while the engine is in the truck? Any comments on this?

If you have a known good throttle cable setup, post the PN if you have it, and let me know if its GM item or aftermarket. I'll look through some of the othe writeups to see if anyone commented on this.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Hey Elbert, I use the Lokar Model# 625-TC-1000TPV and a it will fit the stock pedal set up by using a plastic door screw insert. You won't even need to modify your pedal unless you want to cut off the part that protrudes through your firewall to clean it up. I drill it after since I like to have the cable ready to set up. But it can be done from the inside just watch out for the brake lines and booster.

 

[philos1]

Hey Elbert, I use the Lokar Model# 625-TC-1000TPV and a it will fit the stock pedal set up by using a plastic door screw insert. You won't even need to modify your pedal unless you want to cut off the part that protrudes through your firewall to clean it up. I drill it after since I like to have the cable ready to set up. But it can be done from the inside just watch out for the brake lines and booster.

what Randy said.

 

[Elbert]

Ok, thanks for the advice. Still rounding up misc parts. Was not able to do anything today (normally I'm off work "my real job" on Fridays). Waiting for my friend to get caught up on his junk. We are using his shop. Found a ECM mount bracket and air filter housing out of a junkyard. Not sure I will run the GM type air filter or just use one of the K&N large cone types...but nothing like having a choice.

I have some spare parts that I bought from Dan at American Toy.... that' I'll post in the for sale area soon. New OEM toytota stuff that I soon will have no use for.

I can't wait to get this thing going and run through the gears with the V-8 setup. After Marco let me drive his 5.3 FJ60, I knew I was on the right track.