There are lots of shops around. Just make sure of what they will do the next go around. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions about it.
4x4 labs rear bumper rust
- Thread starter anel
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Absolutely! It only costs about .07 per pound more for P&O. That .07 saves me so much time and money on labor to strip the weld area prior to welding and also not having to use discs up too.
lumbee1
Native American
What is P&O?
I painted my bumper with Rustoleum Flat Black. Anytime rust appears, I sand it clean, prime, and respray. Eventually I'll pull my ARB front bumper, scuff it with a red pad, and spray it with the same flat black to match. I've always loved the idea of powder coating but not the maintenance.
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Pickled and oiled. NO MILL SCALE
lumbee1
Native American
Cool! I've never heard of pickled and oiled steel before. Thanks.
Definitely some kind of special
This makes me not like 4x4 labs, I am glad I did the kits and got mine powder coated locally, it has held up great for 4 years. No rust at all
This is what I did (although I bought mine un-powder coated intentionally and just rattle can'd it; easy to touch up as needed)
Buying a bare bumper makes sense. I am not knocking the bumper supplier (at least not one that supplies cruiser parts), that's not what I am about. I just think that those of us that live in lousy rust climates would do best to get items bare and oversee the process themselves. Either that or from a supplier that makes providing a good finish a priority i.e. @TRAIL TAILOR , @sleeoffroad , etc.
Honest question, do you find people that wheel and knock around their armor better with paint VS PC? Seems once PC is compromised it's not as easy to manage/fix.
That's a tough one. I do not have a problem talking people out of powder coating stuff. Really big old rusty trailers, dump trailers, etc. make no sense to me to coat. The cost is huge vs. paint and they get beat to crap anyway so I push people to paint there. It also depends on where you live. Around here I would vote powder because the spray paint will fail and the bumpers/sliders would look terrible really quick. In no rust zones, a paint job would probably be fine. Both paint and powder look crappy when scratched up and touched up but paint has the low initial investment. The touch up job is up to the user too though. Very careful work pays off if you care to do it.
Makes sense. As wet as Oregon is we don't have to deal with rust as much as other places. A good rattle can last sometime here most things I have found.
Line-X would be a great option. I had custom bumpers done at least 9 years ago and they are still looking good.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
This is why I recommend people make their bumpers out of solid gold. It doesnt corrode, people!
They cost as much. But when well kept, have a resale value
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I prefer rattle can because they WILL get scratched. Powder Coat is a PITA to touch up (Must sand the area completely, then use a rattle can ) or you must burn it all off, then blast and re-powder coat, which is what @dogfishlake is doing.
Personally, blast it to a near-white surface (SSPC-SP10, then immediately spray bomb coat it with a HD Automotive Epoxy rattle can or industrial paint, then let it cure, do a second coat of primer, then two or three coats of top coat color (gloss black, flat black, hot fuschia or color choice). This way when it does get scratched, you can do a light sand and clean-up, re-spray, and you're done.
I deal a lot with industrial equipment and the BEST coatings are for marine-based areas. These are very expensive coatings, are very durable, and can last a very long time. However, ANY coating can be scratched and if it does, there is a PROPER repair procedure.
In the perfect world, I would do:
Near white blast sandblast.
Zinc Clad II Ethyl Silicate inorganic zinc rich primer
Macropoxy 646 (Yes....) polyamide epoxy
Acrolon 218HS Acrylic Polyurethane in whatever color I want.
This would be a highly durable finish, would be reasonably impact-resistant, but would cost probably $1000 to do just because of the cost of products. It would also prevent rust for a long time, unless someone scratched it hard and did not repair it.
So, I'll use spray bomb epoxy, and rattle can gloss black for mine........
Personally, blast it to a near-white surface (SSPC-SP10, then immediately spray bomb coat it with a HD Automotive Epoxy rattle can or industrial paint, then let it cure, do a second coat of primer, then two or three coats of top coat color (gloss black, flat black, hot fuschia or color choice). This way when it does get scratched, you can do a light sand and clean-up, re-spray, and you're done.
I deal a lot with industrial equipment and the BEST coatings are for marine-based areas. These are very expensive coatings, are very durable, and can last a very long time. However, ANY coating can be scratched and if it does, there is a PROPER repair procedure.
In the perfect world, I would do:
Near white blast sandblast.
Zinc Clad II Ethyl Silicate inorganic zinc rich primer
Macropoxy 646 (Yes....) polyamide epoxy
Acrolon 218HS Acrylic Polyurethane in whatever color I want.
This would be a highly durable finish, would be reasonably impact-resistant, but would cost probably $1000 to do just because of the cost of products. It would also prevent rust for a long time, unless someone scratched it hard and did not repair it.
So, I'll use spray bomb epoxy, and rattle can gloss black for mine........
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I struggle with reworking powder, doesn't sand, blend well. With paint can relatively easily make it like it never really happened, powder, to make it nice, is often a sand blast and redo the whole thing.
We have a good relationship with a powder shop, all of the forest signs we make get powder, it's way easier for us, drop them off and done. For what they charge, it costs more for us to do a good paint job, but for things that are likely to need rework, get banged up, prefer paint.
We have a good relationship with a powder shop, all of the forest signs we make get powder, it's way easier for us, drop them off and done. For what they charge, it costs more for us to do a good paint job, but for things that are likely to need rework, get banged up, prefer paint.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Wouldnt a 2 part urethane be a better top coat?
