4x4 Camper - Rear Axle Swap, FROR or D60?

[ntsqd]

If the current wheels are normal dual type wheels then the track width, that is from the middle of the two tires on one side to the middle of the two tires on the other side, will be the WMS to WMS measurement of the current axle assembly plus 2 times the wheel center thickness. Or could just remove the outer tires only and measure from one wheel center's face to the other wheel center's face.

However, if the desire is to have the outer tire sidewalls in the same place as they currently are now we need to know what the offset of the new wheels will be, and the outer sidewall to outer sidewall measurement to figure out what the new axle's WMS to WMS dimension needs to be.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

If the current wheels are normal dual type wheels then the track width, that is from the middle of the two tires on one side to the middle of the two tires on the other side, will be the WMS to WMS measurement of the current axle assembly plus 2 times the wheel center thickness. Or could just remove the outer tires only and measure from one wheel center's face to the other wheel center's face.

However, if the desire is to have the outer tire sidewalls in the same place as they currently are now we need to know what the offset of the new wheels will be, and the outer sidewall to outer sidewall measurement to figure out what the new axle's WMS to WMS dimension needs to be.

This is what I was saying! I was just starting with figuring out the stock WMS to WMS, then add to it as needed for the new axle. We all were getting to the same place, just going different routes.

 

[JD403]

Ah, I think I wasn't clear enough about an important detail. It's a stock rear axle, with some whackadoodle spacer adapters that convert it from 6 lug to a wide 5 lug dually rim and space it out so that the inside wheel is inline with the front (maybe Fuso rims? Maybe something brewed up specific for this camper). I'm trying to roughly match the overall width. In an earlier post I said I wanted to match the track of the outside wheel, but that's not actually true I realize, because the rim gets wider.

Here's what I'm planning to do:

And for the sake of entertainment, here's a picture of the adapter that's on there now. The rims are set up hub centric on the inside wheel (align to a lip on the adapter) and lug centric on the outside.

 

[Squandro]

@JD403 I just acquired a 1992 Toyota Hilux Galaxy 4x4, like you, with 4.30 gears and have the exact same problem I’m trying to resolve. I have been investigating solutions on this intensely for the past few weeks. I’m curious as to what you decided on.

It seems like the “right” way is the FROR custom axle, but that’s 5k built, plus shaft, brakes, mounts, install, etc. Clearly, the problem is in the torquing motion created from the leverage of those duallys and the axles pop just between the bearing and flange. And, like you, it’s just as important to consider the track as it is the load rating.

Cheers!

 

[ntsqd]

From what I gather by playing with the bearings chosen you can install those wheel hubs on a D60. I have not done it, so I don't know the details.

While digging deep into this for a full-float conversion on a SOB I have since learned that this is indeed not possible. There apparently is no mix n match of bearings that will get you there with the stock Dana 60 spindles. The best way is to put 14bff spindles from Rough Stuff on the end of the Dana 60 tubes. The upside to doing this is that the 14bff spindles will easily clear 35 spline drive axles and the common Dana 60 spindles will not. The stock Dana 60 30 spline drive axles are a smaller OD at the splines than the Toyota 30 spline, you really don't want them. Go 35 spline.

 

[Squandro]

@JD403 I just acquired a 1992 Toyota Hilux Galaxy 4x4, like you, with 4.30 gears and have the exact same problem I’m trying to resolve. I have been investigating solutions on this intensely for the past few weeks. I’m curious as to what you decided on.

It seems like the “right” way is the FROR custom axle, but that’s 5k built, plus shaft, brakes, mounts, install, etc. Clearly, the problem is in the torquing motion created from the leverage of those duallys and the axles pop just between the bearing and flange. And, like you, it’s just as important to consider the track as it is the load rating.

Cheers!

 

[JD403]

@Squandro I was going to demand a picture, haha. That looks like the one that was at Ottoex, but that one was a '93. Nice score.

Mine is actually unfinished and tarped, it didn't make it through the California DMV.

I got a Ford Sterling ready to put under it but never quite got the brakes figured out - big pistons on the one ton rear, stock on the front seems... unlikely to work well. The problem with swapping a Ford D60 front in to match is they're both driver drop pumpkins but the driver's seat is on opposite sides!

I'm currently planning on lightening it up, replacing the rear bearings and seals, throwing E rated KO2s on, and driving it gently while keeping an eye on it. Less load on the bearings with a single, although it will be goofy looking and skinny.

Long term, I am considering either a full one ton swap or swapping an FJZ80 rear in, which is standard six bolt plus full float. Would require lots of grinding wheel time to make that work, would still be a little narrow, and I'm still not sure if you can hit the driveshaft angle sweet spot with that setup with a straight driveshaft or if a straight driveshaft would clear all the other junk downstairs.

I'll DM you with some other "learn from my mistakes" stuff.