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You can run in 2h with the hubs unlocked or locked.
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you can highway drive in 2H with the hubs unlocked?
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The purpose of lockout is to run in 2h and eliminate wear and tear on the internal parts of the axle. When the hubs are locked and in 2h, the tires are turning the internal gears in the axle and driveshaft. The tranfer case is not providing any power to the frt end. The hubs have to be locked for 4wd to work and the transfer case shifted to 4h or 4 low. When the transfer case is in 4wd it provides power to the frt driveshaft. You can shift from 2h to 4h on the fly. I usually will let off the gas a little or push the clutch in and shift. I prefer not so shift to 4h on acceleration or shifting at highway speeds.
 
In the fall and spring here we often have broken snow floor. Out in the the open the sun melts snow/ice to pavement/dirt, go around a corner on a mountain or into the tree cover you are back on ice/snow. I leave the hubs turned in and go 2H to 4H and back to 2H as needed just shifting by tapping the gas pedal and moving the lever. I'll run up to like 65 mph indicated on the lying speedometer in 4H - its a lot happier at 55.

If you think you might need 4WD, turn the hubs in. If you think you might need the tire chains, it way easier to put them on when you can drive onto them than it is to get them on when you are stuck.
 
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you can highway drive in 2H with the hubs unlocked?
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You can run with the hubs locked or unlocked depending on conditions. Up here in Wyoming I usually leave the hubs locked from fall to spring because of weather conditions changing. If you see icy or snow conditions ahead you can shift from 2H to 4H on the fly if the hubs are locked. If they are not locked shifting on the fly will only spin the front drive shaft for nothing.

Until Toyota installed factory hubs they were shipped to the States with drive flanges and the dealers installed locking hubs.
 
You can run with the hubs locked or unlocked depending on conditions. Up here in Wyoming I usually leave the hubs locked from fall to spring because of weather conditions changing. If you see icy or snow conditions ahead you can shift from 2H to 4H on the fly if the hubs are locked. If they are not locked shifting on the fly will only spin the front drive shaft for nothing.

Until Toyota installed factory hubs they were shipped to the States with drive flanges and the dealers installed locking hubs.
Weird.
My rig's in Colombia, they were shipped without tops ... two companies here made and installed them. Must be some tariff issue.
 
If the hubs aren't turned in you should stop to go from 2H to 4H. You can shift from 4H to 2 H without stopping. Sometimes getting out of 4WD is a little harder due to stuff being in a bind. Backing up, bumping the clutch, pressure on the lever while doing the afore listed can help.
 
The free wheeling hubs are not absolutely necessary and they slowly caught on after WW2, the first jeeps produced did not have free wheeling hubs but drive flanges.
When I was growing up most 4wds my Dad had they had Warn hubs and the IH 1/2 ton had a set of Selectro hubs. My 78 had Warn hubs installed by the dealer. I was going to replace them with drive flanges when I was in College but were the same price as a pair of Warn hubs at that time.

When I built my rear axle and it is converted to a full floating axle and used front axle parts to do that I could have put free wheeling hubs on the rear but opted to install HD drive flanges. I was going to use the same HD flanges on the front axle also until I decided to put LockRite lockers in each differential and then put HD free wheeling hubs so that I have options to have steering when it is more important then traction. If I am low range and have a tight turn but need the low speed I can put the transfer case in 2 low I don't have a shift gate to prevent that, and if I am in high range I can unlock 1 hub to make the turn.
 

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