Sticky or gummed-up ignition switch - late 40

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chupacabra
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So, I searched here in the forum but didn't find much; maybe using less than ideal search terms? I tried a few different variations.

Anyway, on my 12/79-build U.S.-market 40, the factory original ignition switch on the steering column is sticky, and does not always spring back from the "Start" position to the "On" position when you release the key after starting. Guessing that 44 years of dust, original grease or oil, etc. have combined to make the switch action sluggish.

Anyone else experience this? Tempted to just spray some brake cleaner through the key hole, or remove the switch altogether and clean it with brake cleaner. Would I be better off in the long run to just replace it?

Thanks in advance for any experience/advice.
 
In not sure about a 79/80 switch. I think On 78 and earlier the switch is on the opposite side of where the key inserts. Remove the plastic column clamshell covering the turn and ing switch. There should be 4 screws on the bottom. On the left side opposite the key, you should see the wires going into the switch with a screw holding it in place. That's the actual switch. Maybe someone will chime in on how to pull the key tumbler or you can search.
 
In not sure about a 79/80 switch. I think On 78 and earlier the switch is on the opposite side of where the key inserts. Remove the plastic column clamshell covering the turn and ing switch. There should be 4 screws on the bottom. On the left side opposite the key, you should see the wires going into the switch with a screw holding it in place. That's the actual switch. Maybe someone will chime in on how to pull the key tumbler or you can search.

OK thanks. I do remember reading here somewhere that the key tumbler cylinder is removable, a pin holds it in place IIRC.
 
The red line is where the switch is. You shouldn't have to pull the wheel.

20240427_135411.jpg
 
Put the key in and turn slightly, then depress the pin to remove the lock cylinder.
It could be the lock cylinder or the switch itself.
Be careful with brake cleaner - it can melt some plastics
 
As a follow-up to this thread, in case it helps anyone else - I did get the Houdini lock cleaner and lube from Amazon. It took a while to get here, but it worked like a charm - I squirted some into the tumblers through the key hole and now it works and springs back just like it always did. So I sprayed some in all of my other truck, car, and door locks too. Good stuff.
 
As a follow-up to this thread, in case it helps anyone else - I did get the Houdini lock cleaner and lube from Amazon. It took a while to get here, but it worked like a charm - I squirted some into the tumblers through the key hole and now it works and springs back just like it always did. So I sprayed some in all of my other truck, car, and door locks too. Good stuff.


.;

is it easier to pull the ignition key out of the lock cylinder while driving now ..... or not ?
 
.;

is it easier to pull the ignition key out of the lock cylinder while driving now ..... or not ?

Not certain what you are asking here Matt, but the original key has always come out of the lock cylinder easily, even when the turning of the cylinder and tumblers was sticky. After I turn the ignition off. I have never tried to pull the key out while driving.
 
Not certain what you are asking here Matt, but the original key has always come out of the lock cylinder easily, even when the turning of the cylinder and tumblers was sticky. After I turn the ignition off. I have never tried to pull the key out while driving.


thanks for the reply ..

i was specifically asking about when driving , the Key is in the ON Position ....


can you remove it at any small to moderate level , including a little wiggle wiggle up and down etc ......?

this is a TOYOTA-Thing on Ignition Lock Cylinders as a whole when they reach there duty life cycle ..

i have personally long-ago lubed a sticking or crusty ign lock , only to find out soon after the KEY will and can be removed out while driving ....


Age , the Sands of TEq Time all play a factor here


most of all ........... the Ign Lock Cylinder is keyed and unkeyed and rotated " Many Thousands of Times More " then any other Lock Cylinder on a TOYOTA ....


some Think-Tank-Brain at the American Lock-Smith Service Council back in the late 1990's , here in the lower 48 actually created a complex mathematical formula that proved his then theory , now Solid Fact-Based-Fact ,,,

below is what it looks like when a ign lock cylinder is removed for various reasons , including replacement from normal 5 + Decades of use


this and that is why i asked my question above .....








IMG_1981 (1).jpeg
 

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