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Not so much trouble as much as getting the end cap to push in was really hard, even after the charge was out. I had to literally stand on the thing. Anyway, had to take out both sides of the resvoir, reset the IFP and then put the new end on. Because when I reset the IFP ( 8" from the shrader end according to the website), there was no room to put the fluid back. I was going to pull the shaft, add the fluid and bleed the whole thing...that is when I found the scoring on the shock shaft, which I still can't figure out.

Anyway, here is the old and new hose.

P.S. There is thread in the bottom of the IFP but nothing threaded into it. In the pirate coilover bible, the picture of the fox shock has a little tab on the bottom of the IFP...is that just a fox thing?
hose.webp
 
Great news! FOA is sending me new shafts, ends and seals...give me a few more days and I should have an update for you with pics.
 
OK, so the shock shafts are replaced, but to tell you the truth, I am a little disaapointed in FOA.
1) they did not send new oil, which is not a big deal, but they said they would.
2) the seals on the new and the old cap are not the same size
3) the new cap was corroded out of the box.
4) the new shaft had a lip at the the end near the threads which prevents the valve stack from going on...had to sand it down...super lame!
5) there were aluminum shavings in the oil!
With all that said though, I am ready to burn everything in...but off course, I got a chunk stuck to the diffuser of my gun and that was the last one I had, so off to the welding store I go.
corrosion.webp
seal comparison.webp
stack with shavings.webp
 
*Don't see it mentioned other than a tip in a prior post..

Are you running IFS Hubs on your SA for a little extra width yet or not?

This is what I wondered as well.... I am not going to try and promote IFS conversion with spacers and with deep wheels or low backspacing but I do question for those of us that have large backspacing wheels (not deep-dish) wouldn't the IFS outers conversion with spacers be a realistic option when we are cheap and its easier to scrounge up stock parts than purchase wheels?? I am sure in this case he wanted new wheels eventually and it was better to bite the bullet and buy the wheels saving the dollars on the conversion but??? :meh:

EDIT: oh and also I am still so jealous
 
This is what I wondered as well.... I am not going to try and promote IFS conversion with spacers and with deep wheels or low backspacing but I do question for those of us that have large backspacing wheels (not deep-dish) wouldn't the IFS outers conversion with spacers be a realistic option when we are cheap and its easier to scrounge up stock parts than purchase wheels?? I am sure in this case he wanted new wheels eventually and it was better to bite the bullet and buy the wheels saving the dollars on the conversion but??? :meh:

EDIT: oh and also I am still so jealous

I would suggest getting width whatever way is cheapest for you, however, all the options out there leave the wheel bearings right where they have always been, so there is no "better" way IMO... It's still going to be a stress on the bearings.
 
I would suggest getting width whatever way is cheapest for you, however, all the options out there leave the wheel bearings right where they have always been, so there is no "better" way IMO... It's still going to be a stress on the bearings.

Yep. It can be the Front Range Tacoma brake swap, IFS hub conversion, wheel spacer or offset wheel. But in the end just like 2ndGen said, its just more stress at the knuckle and king pins.

I know for Noah he had one 1" less total width than most guys do and it was combined with wider tires which resulted in just enough loss of space to make fitment of coilovers very, very tight. He choose new wheels for the beadlocks perk I'm sure, and really he now sits with his wheels pushed out as far as most of us Toyota guys are.
 
Conversation went something like this..
Noah "Damn, I am out of room"
Wife "What can you do?"
Noah "A few things, but new wheels are a must!"
Wife "How much?"
Noah "Well, about $200 each"
Wife "What about the beadlocks you wanted?"
Noah "About $20 more per wheel"
Wife "Go for it"
Noah "Hell yeah"


And the rest, as they say, is history!
 
Made a little progress this weekend. Rebuild my Johnny Joints with the correct size through bolt, moved from 9/16 to 5/8. Also painted the links and got the axle out and ready for final welding...Shoudl have my new difuser here tomorrow and then going to start gluing things up...

Check out my high tech Johnny Joint Assembly Tool.
JJ PArts.webp
JJ Tool3.webp
jj Tool2.webp
 
So, the only real problem I have is that there is no way to weld the top of the frame brackets...which is not ideal, but going to be what it is. Even with a stick welder where I hook the rod, there is not way to see what is going on. Brian, maybe make the bracket a little shorter in the future...Also, on the passenger side, there is really no way to get behind the upper link bracket. With all of that said though, I finished the last few things, Engine cross memeber, caps etc...and painted everything up, should start putting things together tomorrow night.
Engine Bay cross mount passenger.webp
Engine cross meember.webp
Engine Bay cross mount driver.webp
 
Hey guys,

Well, after several weeks (months) the truck moved. I still need to redo the brake lines in the front, re-tighten everything, and finish up a few little odds and ends, but here we are...besides a couple of weird rattles, it drove fine.

Check it out...
Front off jacks.webp
Out of the Garage 1.webp
empty garage.webp
 
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